View Full Version : Por 15
12-01-2005, 08:24 AM
Hi I'm a new member. Great site! Looks to be very informative and just what I was looking for on the internet. I have a 1986 Jaguar Xj6 That needs paint badly. The original factory paint is checked and in some places surface rust is beginning to show. One spot in particular is rusting under the bubbles in the paint located over the rear wheel on the outside panel where it is very obvious. My question (s) are: How do I stop the rust damage on the outside panel as quickly as possible.I am going to be restoring the car in about 6 months and wanted to halt the damage that is already occuring. Should I use POR 15? Should I strip all of the paint off of the body using a chemical stripper when I finally get the car in the garage for body/paint work?: My garage is currently occupied by my MGB, which is about to roll out of there. Thanks in advance Alyn :o
It sounds like the rust has come through the metal so the best type of repair is to cut out the bad metal and replace it with new (http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.htm). While welding in a new piece is the best way to do the repair you can also use a filler to fill the holes however it won't hold up as well as new metal. POR-15 is just a coating and won't repair the problem if the rust has penetrated the metal.
If you're going to strip the car there are several options; the best method we've found is "plastic media blasting" but that usually means that you disassemble the vehicle then take it to a blasting shop where it can cost you anywhere from $500 to $2000 depending on what you need done. You can also get the vehicle dipped but that takes even more prep work. Chemical stripper is the lease expensive method but, unless you're really careful, it is quite messy and can generate a lot of additional problems. We've found that sanding off the paint works quite well, it's quick and clean and when it's done properly the surface is left perfect for primer.
When we sand off the paint we use 80 grit sanding disks on a hook and loop backing plate (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FAPS6258-N23591&Category_Code=SPAR) and use a slowly rotating sander/polisher (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=SPAR) to remove the paint without damaging the metal. With these tools we can usually strip about 90% of the surface in 8 to 12 hours then we use a small blaster (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=UNI007s&Category_Code=5SPL) or chemical stripper to finish the job. The best part of using a sanding/polisher is that, at the beginning of the job, it can be used to strip off the old paint and also be used at the end of the job to polish the new paint.
We just finished stripping the 68 Chrysler Newport below and it took about 12 hours. We then applied Picklex 20 (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=RCAC) to protect the metal until we finish the body work and then we will apply primer.
DO NOT USE POR-15 ON ANY SHOW SURFACE
It is some kind of a rubberized type coating.
If you attempt to spray over it it will show all kinds of checkered cracks.
It might be OK on some suspension component or part you might not ever see.
I agree with Len.
1 - Cut it out & then replace it.
2 - Or blast or chemical clean it, then epoxy prime it.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.0 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.