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lilmanplease
04-13-2007, 10:57 AM
This is what my 05 mustang look like when i brought it

http://www.christianfilehosting.com/photo/img/67606f1189f1171a9204943d04b90408/untitled1.JPG (http://www.christianfilehosting.com)

This is what I found after I took the panels, the bumper, and the hood off

http://www.christianfilehosting.com/photo/img/6f257677aa11a17c2e87f931c30214dd/untitled2.JPG (http://www.christianfilehosting.com)


any advice before I start taking stuff off.

This is what I want to do:

1. replace the radiator support

2. replace the bumper reinforement

3. section the rail assembly

http://www.christianfilehosting.com/photo/img/2f37f8b027ac56cd957325096a6a2993/untitled3.JPG (http://www.christianfilehosting.com)

http://www.christianfilehosting.com/photo/img/bffbf861e72c92b1c87677089093bd60/untitled4.JPG (http://www.christianfilehosting.com)

This is what I've done already
1. remove the fenders, bumper, and hood

2. used a spot-weld cutter to remove this panel
(I'm not allow to use more than 4 pictures per post..but you can see it in the picture above)

what I want to know is:

1. what is the best tool to use to make sure I get a straight cut and a clean cut when I section the rail assembly?

2. what is the best way to weld the new rail assembly back on?

3. how do I protect all my new welds from rusting?

4. Before I remove the radiator support, do I have to do anything special (like measurements)?

damnfingers
04-13-2007, 03:53 PM
the link leads to http://www.angelfire.lycos.com/doc/images/rloadblock.jpg

Phil V
04-13-2007, 06:35 PM
Pictures look fine to me. If that car were mine (or a customers car) then now would be the point where the car goes to the frame shop. Let them pull the frame rail back down and pull the passenger apron etc. That is absolutely necessary in order to graft the new header panel on (after the frame shop does their work). I can't see well enough to tell if the frame shop could completely straighten the fender apron but the damage appears minimal to me. That way you're left with only replacing the core support and the bumper reinforcement (and all the associated metal is back within specs of where its supposed to be).

Just out of curiosity - what did you pay for the car ? (mileage, engine size, trans, GT ? no GT ? (I'm not being just nosey, I really like that bodystyle of Mustang and have been entertaining the idea of picking up a wrecked repairable like you did and keep it to drive myself). I came close to buying a new one at the Ford dealer but the payments with the insurance would have been close to $800 a month, which is more than I'm willing to spend on a car. Especially if I could pick up a wrecked repairable for a decent price, pay cash for it and end up with no payments.

Phil V
04-13-2007, 06:39 PM
P.S - Was the windshield cracked on the passenger side from the collision ? (not from occupents in the car). If not then the odds are there is no damage in the cowl area.

lilmanplease
04-13-2007, 06:53 PM
I paid $7000 for the car.
it has 18,573 miles and it is not a GT (4 liters V6 still not bad)

do you thing the rail assembly can be straighten?

lilmanplease
04-13-2007, 07:01 PM
I didn't have anything to do, so I removed the radiator support


http://www.christianfilehosting.com/photo/img/3b94f01acdd4e8c1b393c87d6bff7dc5/untitled7.JPG

now I need to section the rail.

I still need to know, what is the best tool to used to get a clean cut?

Bob K
04-13-2007, 10:07 PM
If it were my car and I was doing the work for myself with no pressure to max out the profit from the job, then I would remove the engine and transmission. Working on the frame rails is very easy when all the obstacles are removed. If you donít have an engine crane then it is a more challenging repair. In addition to the ease of repair you get a good chance to look around for hidden damage. I ended up replacing all four of the motor mounts on my daily driver after I had them out and in hand for a close inspection.

Len
04-13-2007, 11:20 PM
I would do exactly as Phil said, take it to a frame shop, they will put it back where it belongs then you can hang the metal on knowing it should fit properly. You won't need to pull the engine.

Phil V
04-13-2007, 11:30 PM
That was a mistake cutting off the core support. That car got smacked pretty good and the damage that you can see in the core support and the frame rail end as well as the front inner fender apron is most definately NOT all the existing damage to that car structurally. It HAS to go to a frame shop to pull that damage back out basically the same way the metal got pushed in. If you just replace the core support, front part of the inner apron and even the front part of the frame rail it will NOT be right, things will not line up properly. All the separate parts that are spot welded together are interconnected (including the core support) and they all have to be pulled back out together on a frame machine before any parts can be cut off and replaced.

TimG
04-13-2007, 11:38 PM
No offence meant,but DO NOT CUT ANYTHING else off until you take it to a frame guy and have it pulled!!!!!!
Looking at the pics,the car is twisted,rt side up,left is probably down,nose is undoubtably swayed,kink in the upper rail,all problems that you CANNOT correct in a home garage!!!!!!!
There are usually inner reinforcements on a rail,you have to be real careful as where to cut,so you can access inner panels,Ford probably has a procedure on this.
If you are REAL confident in your welding skills,see if you can find a reputable shop that will pull it,prep the new panels,hold it together with sheet metal screws,and hang the fenders,hood,etc to be sure it fits!
Then,you can take it home and weld it together.....
I'm not trying to bust your chops,but there is more to this than meets the eye,done wrong,a structural repair can turn a nice car into an ill handling deathtrap!!!!
I'm ASE master certified,do all the frame/unibody stuff at work,every now and then a hobbyist will bring in a builder he got over his head in{the guy w/the Accord he bought for his daughter was the best,tried to pull the mashed rails out by chaining the rear bumper to a 10 wheeler,and grabbed the front w/a backhoe} The money the guy spent in labor to correct his mistakes was probably double what it cost to fix if he had just left it alone!
Big difference between collision work and resto work! l
Again,NOT trying to be a jerk,but if you're asking these questions on the internet,you are probably better off leaving the stuctural part of the repair to a pro.
Good Luck!

SHOWCAR FINISH
04-14-2007, 12:41 AM
Tim is right. That's a small impact zone so the blow is more severe. That siderail looks jacked.

ZRX61
04-14-2007, 02:37 AM
The idea is to pull it & restore the original dimensions... & THEN you start cutting parts off....You might have some difficulty getting a frame shop to work on it now you've hacked the core support off...:eek:

Lost in NJ
04-14-2007, 07:16 AM
In the one picture you seem to indicate doing a straight cut on the lower rail.

You have to make the repair an over lap or stepped repair. A straight cut and butt weld is not strong. You need to peel back the structure of the rail so you can make an overlapping repair.

You also have to be concerned with rust prevention. You must be sure that the inside of the structure has proper coatings and they are coated after welding.

I suggest reading some books on body work before you continue. You have made a few critical and fundamental errors so far. You really need to look a bit more before you get in too much deeper.

lilmanplease
04-14-2007, 11:02 PM
O.K.

what should I do now?

should I continue and have the car pull straight after I section the rail assembly and replace the radiator support?

or should I take the car to a frame shop like it is now?

ZRX61
04-14-2007, 11:49 PM
At least 3 of us have told you to have it pulled straight & restore the original dimensions BEFORE doing ANY more cutting. Thats assuming a frame shop will touch it at this stage of the game.

After you get that part sorted, then you can section the frame rail etc.

Are you familiar with correct sectioning procedures? Do you know which part the taper has to be on & what part goes inside the other etc?

dixie1776
04-18-2007, 01:12 AM
on a frame rail, it has to be a stepped section, or it won't pass state regulations( if it has to be state inspected before the title is cleared, just saying it has a salvage title)and if your not qualified, you don't need to try and fix it-- i strongly suggest that you take it to a frame shop and let them at least do all except for final fitup if you wanna be involved. your taking off the rad. support before pulling is like getting your buggy ahead of the horse cause now it'll take longer to pull the front end back into recommended deminsions.for your safety and anyone who may ride in your car's safety, let a frame shop do the major repairs, frames are no place for an unqualified person.