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IIcoupe
03-15-2007, 04:02 AM
Hi here is the pic chop and replace? or fixable? It's rusty, but the metal is still strong its not rusted through. I have the center already popped out.. Can i fix the BASh inthe side there? Any advice is appreciated.


http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/hudson999/100_3978.jpg

Phil V
03-15-2007, 08:55 AM
I would definately bump that roof (repair it). It would be a lot less work to repair that existing roof than it would be to cut that one off and graft on a new/used roof.

As dumb as it sounds the fly in the ointment on that repair is going to be the inner roof braces that run from side to side. Once they get damaged by being pushed down its impossible to bent them back up to where they belong. Those braces are supposed to follow the contour of the roof panel with about 3/16 of an inch air gap. That air gap is filled in in spots with a medium density foam adhesive. That keeps the roof from popping in and out and vibrating going down the road at 70 miles an hour. (without those roof panel inner braces the roof panel flexes). What I have done in cases like yours is cut the cross braces with a whizzer wheel, straighten those braces outside of the car then weld them back in place. Thats the ONLY way you get them to do what they were designed to do.

As far as the damaged drip rail area - You'll need a porta power and a stud welder as well as some patience to work the damage out of that area.

Phil V
03-15-2007, 08:57 AM
How are the floor pans in that car ?

IIcoupe
03-15-2007, 09:25 AM
The floor pans are solid up until the passenger floor area right under ur feet and where the seats are bolted in i suppose all them year holdin water.. other than that rest of the car is pretty solid with minor stuff.

The inner roof braces haven't been warped too much A good kick layin on the front seat set them pretty good.. almost good as new but I will have to cut out them side ones and that middle brace tho to get to the area needing repair.. so i guess I will do as you say while i'm at it lol bend em straighter. Thx for ur help man.

Len
03-15-2007, 11:35 AM
I would probably replace it using a donor roof and the backing strip method shown HERE. While it's a little more complicated than the roof replacement shown on this site, it's still no big deal as long as it's measured, cut and welded properly.

Here is a link (below) to a page I just added. You can see the proceedure we use to install a used roof.



http://www.autobodystore.com/Truck19.jpg
Replacing a Roof - Link (http://www.autobodystore.com/roof.htm)

damnfingers
03-15-2007, 03:49 PM
I have to ask...why bother? What is so special about this car that you'd want to spend all the time and bother that it's going to take to make it 'right' again?

Phil V
03-15-2007, 04:19 PM
I can't speak for IIcoupe but I do know those old Nova's make great drag racing cars.

shoddy_f-body
03-15-2007, 09:01 PM
I'd have a new roof on that car a lot quicker than fixing that mess. You would have mud over that whole thing and would take a lot of time filling and sanding to get it straight. Not to mention the surface rust issues.

dave_demented
03-15-2007, 09:26 PM
I can't speak for IIcoupe but I do know those old Nova's make great drag racing cars.


thats exactly what i plan to do when i get the time and money....


if this isnt a high production thing, i would try to repair that roof. done properly you should need very little filler

Phil V
03-15-2007, 10:01 PM
I agree with Dave, If done properly there should be a minimal amount of bondo used. The only bad spot I see is in the drip rail area. Also keep in mind that splicing on a new/used top means the sail panels are going to have quite a bit of bondo work to be done. Perhaps as much or more than repairing the existing top. I have spliced new tops and its a pain in the ass all the way around, and time consuming. I could bump that roof in a lot less time than it would take the average bodyman to replace the roof. One last point is that the original roof is always better at resale time compared to a spliced on roof.

IIcoupe
03-16-2007, 04:43 AM
Well its much better than doing nothing with my money, I am young I have the time on my hands.. Its ok if you can't see what I envision when I look at this rusted monster. Its just the feeling of purpose, and accomplishment I get from doin this sorta stuff.
I've made my decision I'm going to pound it out. I also have been concerned with the drip rail, but what would be the best method to get that side close to as straight as it once was? slide hammer? I ask because on underside the door jamb edge the under the drip rail There is alot of metal in the way. well Thanks all of you you've been lots of help..

Phil V
03-16-2007, 10:23 AM
A slide hammer won't even come close to get the metal around the drip rail back to where it belongs. Its going to take hydraulic power to move that metal. Judging from the picture which shows the upper edge of the doorbent down at least an inch so that metal looks like it has to go up around an inch and a quarter to an inch and a half. If you don't have access to a porta power and don't want to spend a hundred dollars then you're only other alternative woudl be taking it to a frame shop to have it pulled out ($250 to $500 I would guess). That would include the drip rail area only, NOT the rest of the roof thats caved in. For the rest of the caved in areas you're going to need a dinging spoon (Len sells them for a very reasonable price). Do a search on this sites archives using "dinging spoon" as search criteria. It will explain what it is and how its used. That dinging spoon will greately reduce the amount of work needed to work down the high spots around the caved in areas (and there are high spots).

AutobodyCAD
03-19-2007, 01:35 PM
I have spliced new tops and its a pain in the ass all the way around, and time consuming. I could bump that roof in a lot less time than it would take the average bodyman to replace the roof.
I wish I could see some of you guys work. I would certainly learn a lot, and quickly.