View Full Version : Repair advice


02-17-2007, 05:26 PM
My '71 'burb sustained a quarter-panel crunch last week. My wife's pride was the only injury. I have repaired lots of rust but never collision damage. I have a new patch for the bottom of the quarter. Where to begin?
Should I cut the spot welds on the braces and break the panel loose from the support first? Then cut the panel off and straighten the braces? What do you guys think?

02-17-2007, 05:28 PM
Here are another couple of shots.

02-18-2007, 11:43 AM
This is a pretty complex repair that would take a LOT of explaining. This photo here I can't even figure out what I am looking at being there is nothing I can see to reference if the photo is upside down or what?

Is the damage caused from a side hit or a rear ender? It looks like classic rear ender damage with the quarter being "shortened" by the impact but then the part right at the wheel well on the outside where the white paint meets the black it looks like it could have been pushed in and up right there and that would cause similar damage.

If it is a rear ender, you need to pull on the quarter from the rear bringing it back to proper length FIRST. If it was hit on the side, yes, removing that one vertical support may be needed to get it started.


02-18-2007, 01:44 PM
Thanks Brian. That shot is right side up, looking out. The buckle is in the panel below the quarter-window. The damage was caused be a side impact, behind the rear wheel. The quarter is shortened by the bowing at that buckle. The rear of the wheel tub is pushed over and the spare tire well is caved in and buckled. The tailgate still works fine. I imagine I would have to remove the outer panel before I started pushing everything out into line. Are there any other shots I could take?

02-18-2007, 01:55 PM
If that is the case, the quarter is in so far, you are right it is "shortened" and STILL needs a pull from the rear to put it back into shape realisically.

You could "push" it longer from the inside with a port-o-power as well. But that is harder because you have to find something to push off of.


02-18-2007, 01:59 PM
Would a push from the door jam to the rear brace potentially work? If not, would I leave the panel on before getting someone to pull it? Sorry, I realise it is hard to judge without seeing it in person. Thanks, Michael

02-18-2007, 02:13 PM
In the pic that you asked about, there is a factory indentation for the spare that makes the buckle look even worse. But it is bad.... Thanks for looking, Michael

02-18-2007, 02:20 PM
I just realised that most people would question if it is even worth saving, looking at the pics. lol I was saving the bodywork 'til last, but the crash has changed the scope of my work. The '71 (one of about 1700 made) has been lowered, Baer brakes, crate 350 w/fuel injection and A/C, 700r4 and a leather interior out of a 2004 Tahoe...... just to justify my saving it.:rolleyes:

02-18-2007, 03:37 PM
I would probably use a combination of stud welding/pulling on the outside, hammer and dolly where I can get to both sides, large slide hammer with a flat hood for the wheelhouse. Grind and fill the remaining surface irregularities.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/TN-UniSpotter5500small.gif (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=2SW)
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/TA-81000.jpg (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TA81000W&Category_Code=4P1)

Phil V
02-18-2007, 03:46 PM
lowburb, it don't look that bad to me. You are going to need a porta-power to push the wheel opening area back out to where it belongs. Since thats pushed in the farthest then that should be the starting point of getting the damage back out. You'll need some assorted lengths of 2X4 wood pieces and a good sized mall working from the inside of the truck or a porta power would work as well (also from the inside). Once it starts coming out close there will be a high spot towards the top part of the quarter panel. Work that high spot down with a semi-flat nosed body hammer. You're also going to need a stud welder to get out the smaller parts of some of the damage.

Hell, there was a guy here on this site a couple months ago that said he metal finishes jobs like that , no bondo and no thick primer, hehehe. Somehow I just couldn't get myself to believe him. Not that it would be impossible, just take WAY more time to do (like at least 3 or 4 times as along) with no real advantage to metal finishing it. I could never metal finish jobs like that and still put food on the table for my kids along with paying the mortage etc.

If you need any more help repairing that minor damage on your truck feel free to ask away, I'll help what I can.

Phil V
02-18-2007, 03:47 PM
Len, I was thinking the same thing. Using my 10lb slide hammer to work the wheel opening back out if I were doing the job.

02-18-2007, 10:53 PM
Thanks, guys. I have a stud gun and a porta-power. I'll try to put them to good use. Michael