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FoxMustang
11-29-2005, 12:17 PM
I have done some minor body work in the past and actually worked part time in a shop many years ago while in college. But I have never done any painting.

I am getting ready to repaint my race car, an '82 Ford Mustang. I have some questions that may seem very basic so please feel free to add any additional comments, advice, etc...

I am planning on painting the car Ford Atlantic Blue with white "Lemans" stripes. My questions revolve around painting the stripes...

I am aware that the base color must be applied over the sealer within 72 hours to avoid having the scuff the sealer. But what about the clear coat? Is there a "time limit" to apply the clear coat?

I was thinking of applying the base coat of Atlantic Blue then masking off for the white "Lemans" stripes... Shooting the stripes then clear the entire car...

Or, should I apply the base coat, a coat of clear, then allow the clear to flash and mask off and scuff for the stripes and apply another coat of clear on the entire car?

If there are imperfections found in the base coat is it acceptable to sand out these imperfections prior to applying the clear coat?

I have heard that the clear coat must be applied in a timely fashion over the base coats to attain a good bond. But the books I have read on painting show graphics being applied then the clear coat being applied... None of the books I have regarding painting mention a "time limit" before having to apply the clear coat.

Thanks in advance!!!

PJM
11-29-2005, 06:20 PM
Fox Mustang-

If you are sealing your car prior to shooting base follow the directions on the P-Sheets, your jobber should be able to supply you with these.
There generaly is a "window" to spray your clear, again follow the manufactures directions.

Assuming your using a sealer as you stated i would do this:

Seal the car allow appropriate flash time.
Spray white base on areas to be the stripe color; in this case i would shoot the whole panel/car to prevent lifting of the dry edge, when you spray the blue.
Allow white to flash till dry or "Time to tape" has been met by the manufacturer.
Mask off the areas that are to be the white stripe(s)
spray your blue color
remove the masking covering the white stripes
clear the entire job, after your last color is dry per manufactures specs.

As for sanding your basecoat...if it is a solid color sanding isnt much of a problem but is still a good idead to spot in a little base after to be sure. If the color you are sanding is a pearl/metallic then you will have to apply more base to the area you sanded.

You will use less material and have less of a tape edge going from light (white) to dark (blue).

HTH

Paul:)

Phil V
11-29-2005, 06:21 PM
We need to know what brand and type of BC/CC you'll be using. If you are using PPG BC/CC then you could apply your blue basecoat then shoot a coat of DBU (or DBC 500 intercoat clear to seal the basecoat. Let that sit long enough so that tape doesn't leave a mark in the paint (time depends on the ambient temperature of the vehicle being painted. Under normal circumstances I'd paint the blue and the intercoat clear just before shutting the shop down for the night. Next morning tape/paper off your stripes. As soon as the stripes are painted pull the tape and paper (while the white stripes paint is still soft preferably). Tack the rest of the car off then shoot your first coat of clear. Make sure the car is warm, at least 60 but preferably 70 - 75 Deg.F. before you apply your clear coat. Make sure the paint in the gun (the clear) is warm to the touch before you start spraying. The cooler urethane clear is the thicker is becomes which results in poor atomization. If necessary warm the paint up before mixing. The method I described is only one of many different ways of doing the job. No such thing as a right way or a wrong way as long as the end result is what you're looking for.

FoxMustang
11-29-2005, 09:01 PM
Hey guys...

Thanks a bunch for the advice!!!

Phil, the bc/cc system I will be using will be PPG. I am not sure of what "line" of PPG. Our engine builder's brother is an area manager for PPG and is getting the paint for me... I just told him that I did not need the top of the line paint but did not want the cheapest stuff available either... I don't know a great deal of the differences between the different lines within PPG, if even such a thing exists...

I will be spraying the car in my garage and will have a heater available. A buddy of mine sprayed the car last January in my garage and it turned out pretty good. Unfortunately, he is very busy and does not have time to do the car over again so I am going to give it a shot... An uninvited meeting with a concrete wall at 125mph at Maryland International Raceway last month is the reason for the repaint. Surprisingly enough the car was not torn up that bad... I have already had the quarters pulled back into shape and only need to put a skim coat of mud on them to get them perfect.

I plan on getting started on the project in the next few weeks so I hope you all don't mind more questions... Probably a bunch of questions!!!

Thanks again!!!!

madvette74
12-02-2005, 02:16 PM
I am going to paint my motorcycle, and there are 3 colors. I was wondering about the taping as well.. I seen many times on overhauled, how they applied stripes or two tone cars/trucks.. the last episode I seen them do a black impala with silver stripes, and they didn't use a white base over the black when the spayed the silver, the just used a thin tape for the stripes over the base, the masked up the car, and shot the silver on.. seeing these guys doing it this way, makes me believe there is no need to put down a base color when doing stripes.. just so happens my bikes will go black, with silver and charcoal stripes..

Phil V
12-02-2005, 02:55 PM
I agree, I see no reason to put a white base under a silver stripe, Sounds like just an unnecessary added extra step.