Is this estimate too High?

[jack dangers]

First and foremost, this is a great site. I stumbled upon it looking for a body shop in my area. Good Job.

Well, I had a complete brain fade backing out of a tight parking spot in a garage, and I scratched my car (2006 VW Jetta) a bit against a wall. First thing I did was take it to a detailer, and they said they couldn't buff it out, but must be taken to a body shop. I got an estimate on it, but I find it a bit high. Nothing was damaged, so they say it's all labor and paint. This is what I was quoted.

Quarter Panel
RPR RT Quarter Panel
add for Clear Coat
REFN Fuel Door
R&I RT Wheelhouse Liner

Rear Bumper
O/H Bumper assy
RPR Bumper Cover w/o Reverse sensing system
add for Clear coat

Rear Lamps
R & I Tail Lamp Assy

Mask for Overspray

Restore corrosion protection

Hazardous Waste Disposal

After all this is said and done with labor and paint, they are charging me 771.36 including tax.

I know it's hard to truly estimate the damage done from a post, so I've included a grainy cell phone camera picture to help you guys out.:D
If it's fair, I will have to pay it (painfully), since it's quite an eyesore, especially on a black car....

So I thank you for your thoughts.

-JD.

[MARTINSR]

Yep that is about right. The one thing I don't see is the removal of the quarter glass, are they going to mask that off?

Brian

[jack dangers]

Yep that is about right. The one thing I don't see is the removal of the quarter glass, are they going to mask that off?

Brian

I guess it's an expensive mistake.

It's not mentioned on the estimate. So I assume it will be added on with the final bill....

-jd

[MARTINSR]

Either that or they plan on masking it. Which may or may not be a big deal. We pull EVERY window out prior to painting a panel, but a lot of times I think it is overkill. If it can be saned up under the edge and painted there, why pull it? That particular car may have a little room on the edge of the rubber where they feel it is best to leave it.

Brian

[jhowell]

It sounds like a lot because most body shops won't take the time to write up every last detail. Was it hand written or was it some computer print-out. The reason I ask is because I've seen several of the places that do the computer print outs have a lot more stuff on the bill. It makes good sense as the computer automatically covers all of the bases. Unfortunately, it tends to raise the price of the repair. Ultimately, what's important is that they actually do the work they say they're going to do.

[jack dangers]

It sounds like a lot because most body shops won't take the time to write up every last detail. Was it hand written or was it some computer print-out. The reason I ask is because I've seen several of the places that do the computer print outs have a lot more stuff on the bill. It makes good sense as the computer automatically covers all of the bases. Unfortunately, it tends to raise the price of the repair. Ultimately, what's important is that they actually do the work they say they're going to do.

It is a computer generated estimate.

I personally think it's high. I'm going to get a few more estimates before I decide to do it at this place.

[Bob K]

Why not take some lacquer thinner to the white paint (that is what it looks like to me) and see how bad it looks when it is cleaned up. I did that for a friend and all the damage went away. She was expecting to pay over $500 to get it repaired. Actual cost, ten cents. Not applicable if there is metal damage, but I can’t tell from the photo.

Bob K

[Sid]

With out knowing the labor rates where you are at I'd say it sounds like a good price to me.

[jhowell]

It is a computer generated estimate.

I personally think it's high. I'm going to get a few more estimates before I decide to do it at this place.
Just keep in mind, IF they actually do all of the work stated in the estimate, then it's really not that high. And as others have said, location can affect rates.

[jack dangers]

Thanks everyone for the replies and input.
I'm coming to the realization this was an expensive mistake.

Regarding the lacquer thinner suggestion, is there a specific type I need to buy? Will it do anything to the original paint? I might go this route before I send it off to the body shop. Any specific instuctions I should know before I attempt this?

Thanks for the help!

-jd

[Bob K]

Yes, just remember that you are trying to dissolve the garage paint that is stuck to the side of the car. I just use cheep lacquer thinner that I have on hand for gun cleaning, $7.00 a gallon at Menards. I soak a paper town and rub it on the paint build up. That stuff scraped off the garage door really dissolves fast in lacquer thinner. You should see it building up on the paper towel. You should also note that the color of your car is not building up on the towel. That is a much better paint and isn’t affected as fast by the thinner. This is just an on and off with the thinner. Don’t let it stay on the clear coat for a long time, it may soften the clear. I have never had a problem with a short exposure though. The worst thing that you could do is soak up a rag with thinner then set it down on the hood or trunk. After ten minutes or so I would expect some major damage to the paint. Being careful to keep the exposure time to a minimum should give you good results. Let me know if it worked for you.

Bob K

[TimG]

Wal Mart sells laquer thinner in the auto dept,wherever you get it,make sure it's automotive grade,and not mineral spirits to thin housepaint.
Thinner shouldn't hurt factory paint,you'll probably have to wax it afterwards to get it as glossy as the rest of the car.
If you go for a cheaper price,remember,You GET what you paid for!
Top of the line paint is expensive,and a GOOD tech isn't making ten bucks an hour!
Ask around,friends,coworkers,relatives,what shops they have dealt with,and would recommend.
Good Luck!

[Yelog60]

I would say the price is about right if not a little low. I know around here it would be closer to a thousand, but we have higher labor rates than most. One other option might be to have the quarter straightened by using PDR ( Paintless dent repair) then try and buff out the scratches and see what it looks like before you go and have it painted.