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jafo111
10-16-2006, 02:09 PM
I bought a Sharpe Platiunum and was looking for someone who is familiar with this gun... It's new and I got a really good deal probably b/c it's been discontinued....anyways, I sprayed with it for the first time this last weekend, it is fairly slow but layed down the base and clear really nice, but is this gun supposed to be what I would call a "bleeder" gun? The air is always flowing and the trigger only controls the paint feed? Like I said, it worked really well and I know there are guns that are designed this way but I didn't think this was one of them... Anyone have one who could comment?

Thanks,

Dave

wolfsautobody
10-16-2006, 02:39 PM
I bought a Sharpe Platiunum and was looking for someone who is familiar with this gun... It's new and I got a really good deal probably b/c it's been discontinued....anyways, I sprayed with it for the first time this last weekend, it is fairly slow but layed down the base and clear really nice, but is this gun supposed to be what I would call a "bleeder" gun? The air is always flowing and the trigger only controls the paint feed? Like I said, it worked really well and I know there are guns that are designed this way but I didn't think this was one of them... Anyone have one who could comment?

Thanks,

Dave

I've had one for a few years now. I bought mine used. The air should stop once you let go of the trigger. If it keeps fowing then I would probably say check the knob that controls the trigger and make sure it is in like it should be. Sounds like the needle isn't tight enough and is not making a good seal. The way I was taught about the needle is loosen the knob most of the way out, then pull the trigger and hold it, now while pulling the trigger turn the knob and tighten it until you feel tension on the trigger. That is where it should be when spraying. Hope this helps.

Ben

Derry
10-16-2006, 04:20 PM
about the trigger stopping the air...I've had one for a couple of years and I found that even tho it says 50 psi I get MUCH better results between 55 and 60 psi....FWIW
Derry

Roch_Greg
10-17-2006, 02:21 PM
The Sharpe Platium LV was my first gun (brought 3 or 4 years ago when Sharpe still used to sell refrubished guns to the public). I still have it and love it except with certain clears.

IIRC the tigger has both a air and material position (pull slightly in to get air and more for the material to flow)

Either way I've never had the issue you described. You can check the forums over at http://www.sharpe1.com (under doctor gun) if you don't get your answer here.

Greg

bhawk
10-20-2006, 11:54 PM
I also have a Sharp Platinum. It should not be leaking air when the trigger is released. I suspect the trigger is stuck and won't release fully, so you are at that intermediate position described above.
If you go to the sharpe website, you can get the schematic diagram of your gun with part numbers. I suspect the needle packing has seized around that air needle. Sharpe doesnt sell parts direct to public, but they have techs that you can phone to talk about gun issues and part numbers.

Greg, you mentioned you like the gun except for some clears. Which ones? I sprayed SW for my first time, came out pretty nice but only after I sanded out quite a few runs. Couldn't get that clear to atomize real well, but then I was only using about 45 psi into the gun handle. Next time I will crank it up a bit.

Roch_Greg
10-21-2006, 02:39 AM
Greg, you mentioned you like the gun except for some clears. Which ones? I sprayed SW for my first time, came out pretty nice but only after I sanded out quite a few runs. Couldn't get that clear to atomize real well, but then I was only using about 45 psi into the gun handle. Next time I will crank it up a bit.

This past year I went from using clears like Nason Select Clear and Dupont's Multiuse Clears to something a little more upscale (Dupont's Hyper Cure Clears).

Ended up with runs and sags which I usually don't get. I have the 1.3 tip w/a #3000 cap and roll with 50 PSI at the gun inlet.

To be fair I should state I didn't work the material knob to "dial" the proper setting in (I usually set it with one thread showing).

As stated though, it's a gr8t gun for the money esp for a beginner. Stingy on air use and very well made. Once I upgrade my compressor though I'll probaly look for a newer gun for my clears.

Greg

bhawk
10-21-2006, 09:45 PM
Greg, thanks for sharing your experience. I used SW ultra 7000 clear, their top of the line, and got runs and sags also. I did play with the material knob a bit without success. I think increasing the air inlet from the 45 to 50 I used to say 55 or 60 might be the answer. I used 1.3 tip and 3000 cap also.
I like the gun, did great job on all primers and the base coat (white) I need more practise on clears, but given this was my first paint job, it came out great after I sanded and filed the runs out and buffed with Lens compound and pads.

Roch_Greg
10-22-2006, 11:56 PM
I've seen some posts here where folks have used a 1.4mm tip with the same cap for clears and got excellent results.

Like you I've sprayed Primers (almost every kind there is) and base (both metallic and non) with the gun and haven't had one complaint.

I've been doing my research on may jump on a Iwata LPH-400 LV.

Alot of good reviews have been posted about that gun and I think with only 9.5 cfms @ 16 CFM's air requirement I might be able to "sqweak" by with my current air setup. It's pricey though (over 4 bills) but what the heck gotta live a little.

Devilbiss's 670G Plus is another gun I've heard lays down clears like glass and is cheaper. But I'm not setup for it right now and have a issue with getting the three tips when I'll only use the gun for clears so one tip will be enough.

sarchevyman
11-03-2006, 05:45 PM
about the trigger stopping the air...I've had one for a couple of years and I found that even tho it says 50 psi I get MUCH better results between 55 and 60 psi....FWIW
Derry

Tried this today, like day and night:) I used the 1.3 tip and my clear went on like glass, using 50 psi I was getting the sag and run thing....Thanks, Steve

CoolasIce
11-03-2006, 05:51 PM
I have the lo output version of the Platinum.
What's the difference between the Platinum and the Titanium anyways?:confused:
They look the same.

sarchevyman
11-04-2006, 07:51 PM
I have the spec's for the platinum at my shop I will post for you Monday, you can go to the Sharpe web site and compare there. I see you posted on the "other" forum on this and got a @hitty answer, I see that a lot over there. Thats too bad since there are a lot of really knowledgeable painters out there that have really helped me as I have moved forward in this profession, I wish the mods there would step in and do away with the guys and girls who offer nothing but a waste of time. This forum is another story, I never see anyone here belittled no matter what question is asked, Thanks Len , hey we all can learn no matter how much we think we already know :) cheers Steve

CoolasIce
11-04-2006, 10:54 PM
I see that a lot over there.

Yesiree. That's the way the 'other' place can be at times. Mention a certain brand of paint, and all of the commissioned salesmen jump all over you.
I've gone to the Sharpe website and couldn't find any info, except the parts breakdown.
If you could get that info, I'd appreciate it. Since I have a bigger compressor now, I am considering getting a Titanium or a used HO Platinum.
Thanks.