View Full Version : Looking for suggestions on treating wheel well lip rust


11-27-2005, 06:07 AM
I'm working on repairing some rust in the quarter panel on my Rambler American wagon (http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/wagon_pass_quarter01.shtml) and I want to do as much as I can (at least as much as I can do without taking the rest of the quarter off) to treat the wheel well lip so it doesn't rust out.

What I'm up against is where the outer wheel well panel and the quarter panel come together, there is a small channel that has nothing but primer in it from the factory. Moisture has gotten in it over the years and there's a good bit of loose rust in it (at least the part I can see). There is no access to this part of the car when the quarter panel is installed and the only part of the lip you can normally get to was pretty bad and has been cut out for replacement. I'd like to get something in there to clean it up as best as I can and then use some sort of treatment (I've heard lots of good about Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator so I'm leaning towards that) that I can pump into the channel.

Any suggestions on how to go about doing this?



Lost in NJ
11-27-2005, 07:03 AM
There is some wax type rust preventer you can get also and pour in the area. You have to be careful with products like POR 15 in that they will flow out the seams and mess up any paint. Plus they really do not work that great with flaky rust as they do not get around everything or at least in some of my simple experiments.

Your patches are going to be a problem to install and not generate lots of distortion. I suggest you take some time to learn how to correct for weld induced shrinkage. Every weld is a shrink point that has to be fixed with hammer on dolly work. Bear in mind as you work you may find the gaps pulling together. You will want to do lots of small spot welds that you grind flat (assuming MIG welding) and then do some hammer on dolly work to take out some of the distortion.

How do I know about that stuff? http://autobodystore.com/forum/images/smilies/redface.gif
Well I did not panels on a Mustang and learned the hardway. When I got most of the way through my Model A I started to get the hang of removing distortion.

Godd luck

11-27-2005, 01:55 PM
I know that the flakey rust is going to be a problem. One of the things I'm interested in is suggestions on how to clean that out. I've heard a lot of bad about POR 15 (mostly in regards to flaking off) so I'm going to steer clear of it.



11-28-2005, 10:43 PM
We switched from POR to Zero Rust several years ago because of several bad experiences with POR. I must admit POR was good in it's day but we really like the ZR because of the way it works, looks and lasts. We've done several tests including the one below before we were sold on the product but now we use it on just about all of our work. When we have a lot of rust to deal with we will usually convert it with Picklex 20 before the application of the Zero Rust, this stabilizes the surface.

Zero Rust Link (http://www.autobodystore.com/new_page_1.htm)

Bruce P
11-29-2005, 10:06 AM
.... You're feeling like an orphan playing with Ramblers, I saw one in a custom shop outside Seattle week before last that is being built to vie for the Riddler (sp) Award in '07. Ferrari drivetrain, tube frame, etc etc. etc. Talk about putting patent leather dancing pumps on your pet pig now. This thing is too cool!! Go to www.diversstreetrods.com.....

Bruce Palmer

11-29-2005, 06:49 PM

Is the Picklex something I can pour (or pump) into the wheel well lip?



11-29-2005, 10:38 PM
You should not allow the Picklex to puddle, it should wet the area then be wiped or blown so that you don't have an area that won't dry well. If the Picklex is too wet it will dry on top and skin over trapping the moisture underneath causing your rust protective paint to release from the surface. If you can't get to the area to wipe or blow the Picklex off then it's best not to use it.

12-09-2005, 09:19 AM
[B]Dont they make a repair section for that area that you can easily mail order from some place like MILL SUPPLY or even JC WHITNEY. Its the shipping that kills you on the big stuff like full fenders. One thing about that area down there is that it always was and always will be subjected to the abusive elements that rotted it in the first place. For a little more effort you would have a much better longer lasting repair than patching. With any luck your repair would join right under that molding where you wouldn't even have to make it pretty, just seal it and paint both front and back.

12-09-2005, 12:25 PM
While purchasing a "repair panel" will make the shape of the repair a lot easier than trying to shape it by hand the repair will essentially be the same as a "patch". However, if possible, the thing to do would be to place the seam above the problem area so that any moisture that would still effect the panel would be below the repair seam. Yes, it's a good idea to put the seam behind a molding if possible so that you can avoid a lot of finish work.

12-09-2005, 09:12 PM
Unfortunately, the only new sheet metal made for Rambler American's (and just two doors at that) are the outer rocker panels. The only reason those are available is because they're shared with Javelins and AMX's.