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wj3v
10-01-2006, 05:26 PM
I am still plugging along on my project. I have the doors off my 74 T/A and they look good on the outside but underneath is a different story. Can these be repaired? And if so how would you proceed? Thanks

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m84/wj3v41/P1000114800x600.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m84/wj3v41/P1000111800x600.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m84/wj3v41/P1000110800x600.jpg

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m84/wj3v41/P1000109800x600.jpg

dave_demented
10-01-2006, 06:21 PM
yea, that can def be fixed, however itll be a decent amount of work. your best bet would be to try and fine a patch panel for the lower half of the door and weld it in there and go from there with your fiber-glass based filler, then your regular filler. if you cant find a patch panel, you should media blast all the rust off, and out a decent amount around everything, inside and out. you want to find good metal to work with, when you do cut the rust spots back to the stronger metal, and weld in patches from the inside of the door, then put a little rust converter on the bottom of the door, and do your filler work. on those edges that havent rusted through, and it still hasnt went through after medial blasting, i would hit it with a pick hammer to get all the leftover flaky stuff off, and then use a rust converter, etc. after your all done, crest has a product called honey coat which is a rust proofing spray that remains sticky, i spray it inside everything i work on

Phil V
10-01-2006, 08:01 PM
Toss that door and find a rust free one. After 35 years as a professional bodyman I have come to the conclusion that if you want a rust free car when you're done -- then start with a rust free car.

When you repair a rusty car all you have when your done - is a nice looking rusty car. (I've done exactly that several times in the past restoring vehicles for myself -- never again !)

Serge
10-02-2006, 08:21 AM
I would go with Phil, I agree 100% with what Phil said...Repairing that door involves alot of work and if God forbid you would miss a tini little spot of rust somewhere in your repair it will come back to haunt you after all this hard work (and I can almost garantee you will leave one behind, this door is a basket case)...Like Phil said, a rust bucket is a rust bucket even when repaired...

A good door should not be hard to find for that car...sure beats taking the skin off and repairing those innards...

Just my 2 cents.

Serge

Len
10-02-2006, 12:19 PM
The last one we had like this we ended up cutting off the entire bottom of the door and replacing it with a clean door bottom. The old backing strip method was used by cutting off another small section of the donor door and slipping it into the repair. We cleaned the new section before it was installed then used Picklex, Zero Rust and seam sealer to help with longevity. Since the seam was above the problem area the repair will last a long time. Of course if you have a good donor door you could just replace the entire door and have much less work.:D

Lost in NJ
10-02-2006, 07:55 PM
It is easy. All it takes is time.

Here is one I did for a Model A.

Door Patch (http://home.comcast.net/~68c/doorpatch.htm)

Just sandblast it all out then cut out the bad and paste in the new.

Well it is not that easy, I recommend you find some nice rust free doors. They made lots of your car. As pointed out already, It is way cheaper to spend $$ up front for a rust free car.

Mine is a bit harder to find doors for as they only made 6000 in 1931 and only 400 known to exist today. I am bringing a rusty, but rare, pile back to life. I am not too quick to do this again.

70GT Phantom
11-02-2006, 08:31 AM
Why not chemical removal? Once done, rust will be gone. Then coat inside with a good layer of POR-15 to prevent coming back. Mid sized holes can have a fiberglass mat saturated with POR bridging the holes. When dry, conventional finish of the outside would tidy things up. My experience to date with POR shows it will prevent it from coming back & if enough was allowed to seep into the seams, it should here too.

pacer
11-03-2006, 06:22 PM
Have not been happy with POR.Rust will come back.Even doing all the prep steps exactly.I know firsthand it's not worth the risk.

dave_demented
11-03-2006, 06:33 PM
yea, dont go with por, i really dont trust it. it actually gets too hard in my opininon, and rust will form under it. i personally would put a very thin coat of somethin like pickelx on the inside of the door, then a coat or 2 of zero rust, make sure you let it run into ALL seems, and then an aresol rust inhibitor like lps or eastwoods honey coat around all the seems