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View Full Version : lower door repair panel....can it be done without taking door off?



slipchuck
09-08-2006, 06:54 PM
Hi everyone.

I have an 1987 S15 Sierra pickup (I think it is the canadian equivellant to the USA sonama)

I would like to intall the lower door skin without taking the full door off. is this possible? If not how hard is it to take off and install the door? (what tools would I need besides the door spring tool?

also, I do not have a welder is I bought some things to make a weldless patch.....
"calecos" to hold the patch panel on (they are like pins that use a special tool that clicks them in the hold you make to hold the panel in place
A flanger for my air hammer to put a "step" in the door so the skin with stay flush.....
a "pop" rivet dimpler to counter sink the rivets to be flush...
an air riveter....
sheet metal cutting attachment for the air hammer...as well as other attachments
a nibbler.....

how well does these work for a flush panel?

they do sell a simular setup at www.eastwood.com (http://www.eastwood.com) but I bought some from the local princessauto and the calecos from the aviation industry.

any tips from who else has done it this way would be great

thanks

TimG
09-09-2006, 11:11 PM
Door isn't hard to take off,pop off the interior pnl,unplug any wires,and remove the 2 pins at the hinge,you will need the tool for the spring.
How is the inner part of the door? These things were known to rot,if the outside is missing,the inner is probably well on it's way also.
If this has a bodyside mldg on it,easyest way to do it would be to remove the mldg and use panel adhiesive and the rivits to attatch the new skin under the mdlg,minimal paint and filler work.
If no mldg,you can buy it in rolls from a paint and body supply house,in the OEM style,and install it on the whole truck,gives you a break line to fix any other lower rust w/o having to paint the whole truck.

Roch_Greg
09-10-2006, 11:44 AM
Len has a how-to on Door Rust Repair (http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.htm) here which may make for good viewing.

The door skin wraps around the frame. So if your replacing the whole lower skin you would need access to the backside of the forward part of the door (near the fender). This is a tight area and portions may be blocked by the lower hinge.

Doors are held on by the upper and lower hinges (obviously) and you can remove the door simply by loosening the "hinge to door" bolts. You should use a Sharpe or scribe to mark the current location of the hinges to the door cause as it turns out the door can be adjusted with these hinges as well. This will give you a good point of reference when you put them back on and start to re-align them so they mounted properly.

Doors are heavy and very hard to manage. They make "door hangers" which are simply a floor jack with a frame to hold the door.

The other method is a 2 x 4 used on top of a floor jack then raised up to meet the door bottom. In any case I would reccommend having someone to help you with both the removal and installation of the door.

One of the main reasons for removing the door (other than what I pointed out before) is that it's much easier to work on when you have it on a bench than when your on your knees or back.

Greg

slipchuck
09-11-2006, 10:00 PM
Door isn't hard to take off,pop off the interior pnl,unplug any wires,and remove the 2 pins at the hinge,you will need the tool for the spring.
How is the inner part of the door? These things were known to rot,if the outside is missing,the inner is probably well on it's way also.
If this has a bodyside mldg on it,easyest way to do it would be to remove the mldg and use panel adhiesive and the rivits to attatch the new skin under the mdlg,minimal paint and filler work.
If no mldg,you can buy it in rolls from a paint and body supply house,in the OEM style,and install it on the whole truck,gives you a break line to fix any other lower rust w/o having to paint the whole truck.

sorry for the ignorance, but what is mldg?

the bottom of the door on the inside is rotted, but just the bottom.
I plan to do something with it next year, as this year I am running out of good weather (I have no shop)

thanks

TimG
09-11-2006, 11:26 PM
Sorry,mldg is a lazyman's way of typing moulding,the plastic strip that runs down the side of the vehicle,to hopefully prevent parking lot dings.

Roch_Greg
09-11-2006, 11:42 PM
Okay, I think I have a picture of what your talking about. Your not working on the door "skin" what is on the outside of the door but the bottom part on the inside like where the drainage holes are. Is that right?

Your right about the weather, I live on the other side of the lake from you (Rochester) and only have a one car garage. The season for outdoor work is short and rapidly coming to an end.

Len
09-12-2006, 07:13 AM
Hey Slipchuck, any chance you can post a couple pictures of your door?

slipchuck
09-12-2006, 07:34 PM
Hey Slipchuck, any chance you can post a couple pictures of your door?

I just painted it.....
http://pic.piczo.com/img/i161471405_14371_2.jpg

closer look
http://pic.piczo.com/img/i161434401_24435_2.jpg

A view of the inside.....
The bottom seems to be the only part bad....rocker pannels still in great shape

http://pic.piczo.com/img/i137543398_81851_2.jpg

the red is primer under the door. I would like to repair this if I can as I put a lot of time into the outside of the door. the new panel will cover from the bottom of the door until about an inch or 2 above the lower door line.

thanks so far to everyone!!

P.S BTW, the paint is CIL professional Marine aklyd Enamal. (no hardener)
any thoughts on how to buff this up is appreciated

Roch_Greg
09-13-2006, 02:40 AM
Paint job looks good and thanks for the pic's. Robert has a excellent write-up (http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.htm) on cutting and buffing. He's working on factory paint but you can get the jest of the process from that. You'll just have to be a little more careful if your paint is less than a month old or so.

Almost any part of the sheet metal on a vehicle is repairable, the limiting factors are usually cost and skill.

If I'm looking at this right you have the lower part of the door skin (the outside part) looks like a couple of inches (pic 2)

Then you have the bottom of the door frame (pic 3) where the primer is. I can't see any damage there, is it where the seam is?

Len or one of the senior members here will hopefully chime in on this.

Greg

slipchuck
09-13-2006, 05:39 AM
Paint job looks good and thanks for the pic's. Robert has a excellent write-up (http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.htm) on cutting and buffing. He's working on factory paint but you can get the jest of the process from that. You'll just have to be a little more careful if your paint is less than a month old or so.

Almost any part of the sheet metal on a vehicle is repairable, the limiting factors are usually cost and skill.

If I'm looking at this right you have the lower part of the door skin (the outside part) looks like a couple of inches (pic 2)

Then you have the bottom of the door frame (pic 3) where the primer is. I can't see any damage there, is it where the seam is?

Len or one of the senior members here will hopefully chime in on this.

Greg

thanks!
unfortunately I had to rush the paint as at night the moisture was holding in the primer, making it almost imposible to continue.
I plan on repairing the box and other things next year, and while I am at it I am going to fill the small bumps that I missed in the body work and repaint those spots.

sorry but I guess the pics don't show the bottom inside of the door that well.
what it doesn't show is the bottom inside of the door is rotted with rust.
If you look at the bottom, you can notice that it is not a straight line (rusted right out)

thanks again!

randy

Roch_Greg
09-13-2006, 08:39 AM
yup, I see that, like I was saying near the seam (where the bottom of the door meets the skin of the front).

Moving from the garbage cans to the left as it were. You might be able to fix that with the door on.



Greg

TimG
09-13-2006, 11:36 PM
The front doors on my driver S15 Jimmy were in pretty much the same shape.
What I did was pick the scrapmetal pile at the shop I work at for a doorbottom that was close to the S15,cut a piece out that was an inch or two bigger than what was rotted,and glued/riveted/ tackwelded it to the bottom of the door,after I cut the rust out.
One side was off a Toyota Tacoma,can't remember what the other one was,but the Toyota part fit pretty well!
The outside,I bent up an old doorskin,and glued /riveted it on under the moulding,been 3 years,held up well.
I'd cut the new doorskin/patch panel to keep the seam an inch or so under the bodyline,easyer to mud in the new part up to the line than in the middle of the door....
A local Mom and Pop bodyshop will probably give you a junk door if you ask nicely,they have to pay to get rid of it.
Hope this helps!

drizler
09-24-2006, 01:51 PM
HF sells a cheap door holder for around 60. I made one from a 2 by 6 using a couple pieces of 1/8 by 1" strapping and covering it with duct tape setting the whole thing on a small hydraulic K mart jack. I would highly recommend that for a one shot deal but not if you plan on doing it again or alone ( like I did). If making one trips your trigger I could email you a couple pics but again its not something I would go wild about. Got any strong friends??????