Single Stage or BC/CC ??

[sperkins]

Ok guys. Without going into a 5 page discussion on the molecular make up of each system, I would like to know what is the type of paint system I should use to get decent results.

Info:
68 Vette convertible.
First time painter.
Devilbiss GTI-620G Millennium HVLP gun.
80 Gallon air tank (for volume) being filled by (2) 25 gallon 5hp craftsman compressors.
Inline dryer at gun and dryer at compressor.
Home made paint booth - cross flow style.
2K primer has been wet-sanded with 600.
Car is READY to paint.
Color will be "Super Red" Dupont code 81U. Or PPG equivalent.

I am not looking for a show qualtiy paint job. But, I will not be happy with a crappy one either. I have a friends professional DeWalt high speed buffer I am going to use to color sand when finished.
Car will seldom be driven and will always be garaged.

Looking for ease of use, low overspray, less passes around the car, and a descent shine.

No cheap stuff like Omni preferred. One grade higher will be OK. How about PPG's Global line?
Need to buy paint tomorrow.
What do you recommend.

[Iceman]

The nice thing about the BC/CC system is how quick it dries to keep dust bugs, etc.. out. I think most here would agree that is the case. In solid colors like red, white and black I like the SS. I've been toying around with the HOK paints before painting my truck. They seem to me easy to apply and with fast coverage. I've tried the various temp reducers they have to slow down the drying process, seems the slower the smoother the finish. It's not a cheap paint by any means. I didn't realize really what they meant by the "Darkest black" until I put it next to another black! If you what a custom like no other paint you should look into their BC/CC systems. No I don't sell them or rep them, but got hooked after shooting some of their SS with Devilbiss Plus gun. Now if I can just find the time to paint that damn truck!

[sperkins]

Thanks IceMan.

[Len]

If the red you're painting is a solid (non-metallic) color it won't make much difference which type of paint you apply.

I'm not with Iceman as far as dry time is concerned. Both single stage and bc/cc take about the same amount of time to dry and harden. BC/CC will need to be wet longer because you apply color that is wet and needs to dry before the clear is applied THEN the clear needs to be applied and is sensitive to dust until it dries.

[Nirky]

It depends what look you want. For the reddest reds or the blackest blacks, ss is the way to go. But you sacrifice glossiness and especially depth, which bc/cc clearly wins out on. I prefer gloss and depth by a wide degree over a flatter look, so I'd only do ss if someone paid me to do one of their cars, I wouldn't put it on mine, that's just my preference. Plus bc/cc is much more easily fixable.

[JimmyPtr]

If it were my fine Solid Red Vette- I'd go w/ SS Urethane (Concept in PPG). 3 good coats & you're done, w/ enough film build to cut & buff. Especially since it will be indoors most of the time. Easily repairable & always quick to shine w/ a minor buff.

[sperkins]

Ok Thanks.
Which gun will be easier for me to use?

DeVILBISS GFG-670 PLUS
DeVilbiss GTi Millenium HVLP

I will be buying 1 of these 2 only. No other brands considered.
Thanks for the input.

[Iceman]

The reason I got the plus was due to the higher pressure at the nozzle. Right wrong or indifferent, I assumed higher pressure would equal smoother finish due to the higher pressure making the paint particles smaller, at least from the folks I know that make atomizing nozzles for use in other industries this is the case. Devilbiss also makes that claim. It still has a very high transfer rate that is at least equal to an HVLP gun. With two box fans, I hardly noticed any fog, but then again I've not painted the whole truck yet! The PLUS also uses less CFM's.

[sperkins]

It still has a very high transfer rate that is at least equal to an HVLP gun.
What does that mean?

[Nirky]

Part of being an "HVLP" gun is having a transfer rate of over 65% (I think it's 65%); that means that at least 65% of the paint that comes from the gun is deposited on the painted object, so if you spray 100 ml, at least 65 ml finds itself on the car, and the other 35% is overspray that is basically wasted.

[Len]

Ok Thanks.
Which gun will be easier for me to use?

DeVILBISS GFG-670 PLUS
DeVilbiss GTi Millenium HVLP

I will be buying 1 of these 2 only. No other brands considered.
Thanks for the input.

The GFG atomizes better but the GTI is easier to control because of the lower pressure at the cap. The paint will be smoother from the GFG but you will have less tendency to generate runs and dry areas with the GTI. If you plan on sanding and polishing the paint smooth (like most of us do) and you're a novice then you'll probably be better off with the GTI.

[Iceman]

I'll have to agree with Len on the Run, but I've not seen dry spots. With the plus if you don't set the gun up correctly or keep a constant distance with constant speed of the pass you cause runs. I have a cheap HVLP gun that gives me more problems with dry spots but less issues with runs. I painted my hood on my 98 S-10 lite pewter metallic BC/CC with the HVLP and hated the results thus I bought the Plus, which made the hood look better than the rest of the vehicle, guess that may just be my next project after I finally finish my old truck. I guess like anything the more you practice the better your get.

[X711]

I would go with SS on that car. The finished result will be more realistic
for the period the car is from !.

For the Paint I would use Valspar Refinish, Omega 2k 840 as opposed to the concept product from ppg. The specs for the Valspar product are better
than PPG concept.

Both the DeVILBISS GFG-670 PLUS, DeVilbiss GTi Millenium HVLP are good guns.You will get better results with the Plus gun.

Using either gun, you can expect alot of Overspray. If you want a better gun
than the Devils then get the Iwata LPH 400 144Lv GUN.

This gun uses less air, has a bigger fan "Using Less Air" than the Devils.
Overspray is minimal !

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[Topgun]

I am a big fan of SS. At work when moneys an issue give me the B/C.
SS has more depth especially with Primary colors. I don't think you can even compare the gloss and depth of SS vs BC. SS has the win in both of those categories. Although it is harder to spray its well worth the finnish and look you get.

[pebbles]

"professional DeWalt high speed buffer I am going to use to color sand when finished." Isn't this the wrong tool?

[Len]

"professional DeWalt high speed buffer I am going to use to color sand when finished." Isn't this the wrong tool?

Color sanding is done using wet paper by hand or using Finishing Film on a random orbital sander. The "high speed" buffer is usually for polishing the surface after the color sanding is finished. The ideal tool for polishing is a good "variable speed" buffer.

[sperkins]

Thanks to all for the input, but I have to be honest with all of you.
This forum is more confusing than helpful. I've watched this forum for the last several months and rarely do any of you agree on anything. Just go back and begin reading this thread from the start. It's just aggravating that it has to be like this. For guys like me who need the "basics" answered, we are better off just to either figure it out with lots of wasted money and practice, or get all our info from our local jobber.
Not trying to pee in anyones cereal here, but you guys can have this forum. I'm outta here for good.
:(