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Obsford
08-26-2015, 08:44 PM
Hope every one is well. Just wondering which compound everyone is using these days?

I have heard mention of Wizards Mystic Cut. Is that one easy to work with? Low dust and easy wipe off?

Any others that you enjoy working with? Thanks have a great day.

Len
08-26-2015, 09:32 PM
Hope every one is well. Just wondering which compound everyone is using these days?

I have heard mention of Wizards Mystic Cut. Is that one easy to work with? Low dust and easy wipe off?

Any others that you enjoy working with? Thanks have a great day.

Yes, we've switched over to Mystic Cut and are quite happy with it. So far it's the best we've used. Almost any compound that you allow to dry on the surface or in the gaps is going to be difficult to remove.

Obsford
08-27-2015, 08:52 PM
Mind sharing what all you have used previously?

xtremekustomz
08-29-2015, 06:52 PM
I have used:

3m 06085 Rubbing Compound
-It cuts pretty good with a foam pad and even better with wool. The wool leaves marring behind that has to be gone over with a foam pad though. Does dust.

Meguiars M105
-Excellent cut with a wool pad. Foam had decent cut but finishes out really nice. Very little marring. Does dust a little and has some oils in it so a wipe down with an IPA solution is a good idea just to make sure it isn't covering anything up. Just used it on a Dodge Challenger. Should have pics of it up soon.

3D HD Cut
-This is pretty much my go to anymore these days. Cuts great with a wool pad and finishes out very nice with a polish. Has no silicone or fillers so what you see is what you get. Most colors don't need to be polished if you use a foam cutting pad. No dusting.

Favorite polish right now
3D HD Polish
-Very easy to use and little to no effort in wiping. Doesn't dust (as long as your pads are clean of course). Finishes out to perfection. No silicone or fillers on this one as well.

skysdalimit
05-09-2016, 12:29 PM
3M Perfect it Finishing Material. one step and done. no cross contamination of rags or pads. Very little cut so needs ultra fine sanding. I spray lots of clear so i'm not worried about burning through with sandpaper.

Robert
05-13-2016, 08:09 PM
I've been running Menzerna compounds. Specifically, FG400. Sometimes I'll do a first pass with 300 then come back with 400 on the rotary with a foamed wool pad, followed by 400 again on the makita BO6040 with an orange foam pad.

Robert

Obsford
05-22-2016, 11:52 AM
Good info Robert. I have used Menzerna 400 a little bit.
What speed do you use on the rotary?
Does it dust a lot for you?
That stuff does leave a nice finish. Thanks

Robert
06-03-2016, 10:23 PM
Good info Robert. I have used Menzerna 400 a little bit.
What speed do you use on the rotary?
Does it dust a lot for you?
That stuff does leave a nice finish. Thanks

I think it's a good idea (Gasp!) to add a couple of tablespoon fulls of water to the normal dispenser bottle of FG400 because it will run longer and it doesn't seem to hurt the cut. 1200 to 1500 is the range but it depends on the size of the pad I'm using and the kind of pad. The product is very forgiving and the finish is as you mentioned very good for something that cuts as fast as it does.

Robert

Henry
06-04-2016, 09:07 AM
I think it's a good idea (Gasp!) to add a couple of tablespoon fulls of water to the normal dispenser bottle of FG400 because it will run longer and it doesn't seem to hurt the cut. 1200 to 1500 is the range but it depends on the size of the pad I'm using and the kind of pad. The product is very forgiving and the finish is as you mentioned very good for something that cuts as fast as it does.

Robert

All this talk about Menzerna induced me to look it up. I found the following familiar saying:

Cuts like a compound finishes like a polish!

Thanks for the continued direction, Robert.

Henry

Henry
06-05-2016, 11:25 AM
And I thought wizard was all the rave. I'm sticking with what works for ME I guess. :thumb:

I still have some Sure Finish and find no complaints about it.

I can appreciate everything Robert has to say since he puts food on his table from using everything out there and with the often 7 figure cost of the vehicles he's doing, he must know something I would like to know.

Yeah, my paint guy sells Menzerna and I might just have to try some.

Henry

Robert
06-05-2016, 11:30 AM
I look at polishes with certain characteristics, no fillers - I want to get what I see, clean cut with minimal dust - I expect some dusting because what I'm cutting off the paint, the used abrasives, broken down pad, etc. have to go somewhere, easy cleanup - this means the product should come out of the pad easily when dry and off the surface without a lot of trouble and if I manage to get any in a crevice, it should soften and be rinseable with plain water.

When a product won't come out of a pad when its dry, I believe there's something in the product that binds the residue together and if a component will bind residue it's been my experience it will fill defects. Both Wizard and Menzerna pass on all counts.

Speed is also important to me. I'll use a more expensive polish to save time. The cars I'm working on might have been painted with one kind of paint then repaired over the years with several different kinds of paint so the products I use have work across a lot of paint systems. Even though, both Wizard and Menzerna are good pretty much across the board, there are times when one just works better the other, so, while Menzerna is what I reach for these days, I've still got a couple of other bottles with me just in case.

The biggest thing in terms of quality and speed might be lighting. I've been wearing a headlamp for awhile and I've got led shop lights to put on the floor and shine up at the side of the car so I can see what I'm doing all the way to bottom without bending over. It used to be that once in awhile we'd put a car I'd done up on a lift and I'd see things I missed, or I'd have to put the car on a lift to finish it. Led rechargeable lights great to have.

Robert

Obsford
06-16-2016, 09:12 PM
Some awesome, awesome tips Robert. Any tips on prepping for polishing. Washing, claying etc.?

What are your thoughts on these modern paint coatings?

Thanks in advance!

Robert
06-17-2016, 08:40 AM
Some awesome, awesome tips Robert. Any tips on prepping for polishing. Washing, claying etc.?

What are your thoughts on these modern paint coatings?

Thanks in advance!

I always wash the car thoroughly, then rinse and soap again, then clay - more often these days use a nanoskin towel - then dry.

As far as paint coatings go - I know they make people a lot of money but I haven't personally seen value to the customer that makes them something I do. There was one at SEMA this year that filled scratches, wet oxidation to make it look good and was kind of interesting but I managed to misplace the info on it. I hope they're around this year. I didn't check the price but it was thick enough to be interesting. As far as the claims the others make, I've redone cars with those coatings a lot of times and they cut and polish just like everything else.

All the best
Robert

dlmrun2002
06-19-2016, 08:22 PM
Nanoskin is a great choice over clay. If you get the 6 inch pad I would suggest you get the hand grip mount that comes with it. You can use any clay lube or "NOS" diluted when prepping paint for cut/polish.

dlm ny country

68ragtop
07-19-2016, 02:25 PM
What are you guys using to clean up wool cutting marks? I have been using 3M polishing compound #2 with a black foam waffle pad.
Its just about gone, so if there something working better I would be interested in trying it. otherwise I will probably pick up another quart of this stuff. Seems to work pretty well, but I still see swirl marks at a benign level. I would really like to try an orbital polisher soon.

http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-and-polishing/polishes/3m-perfect-it-machine-polish-06064.html

Len
07-19-2016, 04:06 PM
What are you guys using to clean up wool cutting marks? I have been using 3M polishing compound #2 with a black foam waffle pad.
Its just about gone, so if there something working better I would be interested in trying it. otherwise I will probably pick up another quart of this stuff. Seems to work pretty well, but I still see swirl marks at a benign level. I would really like to try an orbital polisher soon.

http://3mcollision.com/products/buffing-and-polishing/polishes/3m-perfect-it-machine-polish-06064.html

We use Wizard's Mystic Cut and Sure Finish orange foam pads and we don't have buffing swirl problems.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/wiz11048.jpg
LINK (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=WIZ11048&Category_Code=M3)

68ragtop
07-19-2016, 09:38 PM
No kidding?
your cutting & polishing with the same compound & just switching pads?

I saw wizards on the shelf at my LPS. not familiar with it at all however.

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 05:33 AM
I think I read your post wrong last night.

I'm guessing Sure finish polish with an orange pad what you meant? At first I thought sure finish was a brand of pad.

Len
07-20-2016, 05:59 AM
I think I read your post wrong last night.

I'm guessing Sure finish polish with an orange pad what you meant? At first I thought sure finish was a brand of pad.

The Sure Finish polish does a good job but it's a little slow. The Wizard's Mystic Cut is faster and the only time we need swirl removal is on dark colors like black or dark blue. For most jobs we use only the Sure Finish orange pad but if we need a softer pad we may switch to the Sure Finish black pad. We have an orbital buffer that we were using for swirls but we no longer need to use it since we started using Mystic Cut.

After our sanding is finished we polish using a slow buffer and more pressure then after we achieve a gloss we increase the buffer's speed and lighten the pressure.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/sfstuff.jpg
LINK (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=SFPADS&Category_Code=T2)

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 06:30 AM
I think the 3M #2 is more of a filler. It always seems to look pretty good at first, just noticeable on dark colors, but the swirls seem to come back around 2-3X what they where after initial polish
a few weeks-months later. :(

with the 3M cutting compound & the wool pad, the shine comes back so quick with a final 2500 grit sand, I wonder if I would have better results with mystic & a cutting foam pad. Normally I am cutting back 1500 scratch on fresh paint.

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 07:48 AM
The Sure Finish polish does a good job but it's a little slow. The Wizard's Mystic Cut is faster and the only time we need swirl removal is on dark colors like black or dark blue. For most jobs we use only the Sure Finish orange pad but if we need a softer pad we may switch to the Sure Finish black pad. We have an orbital buffer that we were using for swirls but we no longer need to use it since we started using Mystic Cut.

After our sanding is finished we polish using a slow buffer and more pressure then after we achieve a gloss we increase the buffer's speed and lighten the pressure.



BTW, are foam pad colors universal now? The link you gave me to CCS a while back has a pile of colors from a yellow cutting to black final polish. Then 4 colors in between. I have never used anything but a wool pad & a black. Maybe that part of the problem. So used to wool pads, but no doubt they put a fairly aggressive cut mark into the finish imo.

Len
07-20-2016, 08:19 AM
I think the 3M #2 is more of a filler. It always seems to look pretty good at first, just noticeable on dark colors, but the swirls seem to come back around 2-3X what they where after initial polish
a few weeks-months later. :(

with the 3M cutting compound & the wool pad, the shine comes back so quick with a final 2500 grit sand, I wonder if I would have better results with mystic & a cutting foam pad. Normally I am cutting back 1500 scratch on fresh paint.

Yes, compound with lubricants tend to make the surface look good quickly then, as the lubricants wash away, the scratches reappear. Mystic Cut and Sure Finish have almost no lubricant so what you see when you finish buffing is what you end up with.

Len
07-20-2016, 08:23 AM
BTW, are foam pad colors universal now? The link you gave me to CCS a while back has a pile of colors from a yellow cutting to black final polish. Then 4 colors in between. I have never used anything but a wool pad & a black. Maybe that part of the problem. So used to wool pads, but no doubt they put a fairly aggressive cut mark into the finish imo.

No, different manufacturers use different color foams so the colors are usually different. We use the Sure Finish orange foam pad for most of our buffing and switch to soft black pads if we need to.

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 08:33 AM
Look sat how many pads Lake country has. Mind boggling.

purposeful, or just marketing....

http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/types-of-foam.html

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 08:56 AM
No, different manufacturers use different color foams so the colors are usually different. We use the Sure Finish orange foam pad for most of our buffing and switch to soft black pads if we need to.

So I am guessing 50 ish pores for cutting, 80ish pores per inch is a good polish foam & 100ish for final finish? Just trying to get a grip on what is what seeing the colors don't always mean much. Some list the PPI, & other don't.

Len
07-20-2016, 10:08 AM
So I am guessing 50 ish pores for cutting, 80ish pores per inch is a good polish foam & 100ish for final finish? Just trying to get a grip on what is what seeing the colors don't always mean much. Some list the PPI, & other don't.

Actually I don't think that PPI isn't the true judge of a pads performance. We experimented with a hundred different types before we landed on the orange pad and even that isn't perfect for all applications. A lot of the performance will also depend on the paint and the compound/polish.

68ragtop
07-20-2016, 11:39 AM
Do you have the orange & black pads larger than 6.5" I'm Just used to 8" pads I guess.

I will try the mystic cut & probably get the black pad too. I would still like to make a separate polish pass to insure a perfect finish in all lighting. This car will be shown for the first year or so, in all types of unforgiving lighting. would you stick with wizards for polish as well?

BTW, I did find pads that fit that discontinued 3M "perfect it" backer I posted about. SM Arnold speedy foam fits like it was made for them.

Len
07-20-2016, 01:08 PM
Do you have the orange & black pads larger than 6.5" I'm Just used to 8" pads I guess.

I will try the mystic cut & probably get the black pad too. I would still like to make a separate polish pass to insure a perfect finish in all lighting. This car will be shown for the first year or so, in all types of unforgiving lighting. would you stick with wizards for polish as well?

BTW, I did find pads that fit that discontinued 3M "perfect it" backer I posted about. SM Arnold speedy foam fits like it was made for them.

No, the only SF foam orange and black pads are 6.5" and the backing plate is 6".

xtremekustomz
07-21-2016, 02:53 PM
I use lake country pads. I have most of the colors. I use orange and yellow for cutting, white for polishing. Lately I've just been using 3D AAT compound on the orange or yellow cutting pad and that's pretty much all that is needed. I sometimes run over dark colors with AAT compound and a blue pad. I still do an isopropyl alcohol/water wipe down no matter what compound/polish I use though.

68ragtop
07-21-2016, 03:29 PM
I am going to try the mystic cut, but first I am going to have to use something with more grit than the 3M rubbing compound, or finer paper. Pretty frustrated. currently can't seem to get out 2500 grit scratch marks & 3000 grit trizact won't do it either. Yes, they are 2500 marks, if I change the direction of the sanding, the marks will change to that direction. The 3000 grit trizact sheets will work to some digree but I can barely get them to last 1/3 of a panel & they are non effective. even then I see random marks. The clear is like concrete :( First time I ever waited this long to sand & polish & I am paying the price.

waited extra long to make sure it was tight, & boy is it ever. Would look great for a local car show, but under the all the bright fluorescent tubes in my shop & can still make out the tiny micro scratch marks. Its driving me nuts.

Only way I can make the scratch less noticeable it to use the 1500 trizact, then 3000,
but then I can see the orbital marks from the 1500. All that is doing though is tricking the eyes by not having lines to follow.

Might have to order 3000 grit paper & see what that does. Not too happy at the moment.

Len
07-21-2016, 04:02 PM
I am going to try the mystic cut, but first I am going to have to use something with more grit than the 3M rubbing compound, or finer paper. Pretty frustrated. currently can't seem to get out 2500 grit scratch marks & 3000 grit trizact won't do it either. Yes, they are 2500 marks, if I change the direction of the sanding, the marks will change to that direction. The 3000 grit trizact sheets will work to some digree but I can barely get them to last 1/3 of a panel & they are non effective. even then I see random marks. The clear is like concrete :( First time I ever waited this long to sand & polish & I am paying the price.

waited extra long to make sure it was tight, & boy is it ever. Would look great for a local car show, but under the all the bright fluorescent tubes in my shop & can still make out the tiny micro scratch marks. Its driving me nuts.

Only way I can make the scratch less noticeable it to use the 1500 trizact, then 3000,
but then I can see the orbital marks from the 1500. All that is doing though is tricking the eyes by not having lines to follow.

Might have to order 3000 grit paper & see what that does. Not too happy at the moment.

We normally sand and polish within 48 hours of painting then, if it's show quality, we polish again two weeks later and we may even sand again with some 5000 grit prior to our last polishing. The hardest clear that I've had to polish is Sikkens but I haven't used it for years so it may have improved. What are you using?

68ragtop
07-21-2016, 04:22 PM
We normally sand and polish within 48 hours of painting then, if it's show quality, we polish again two weeks later and we may even sand again with some 5000 grit prior to our last polishing. The hardest clear that I've had to polish is Sikkens but I haven't used it for years so it may have improved. What are you using?

Its Omni 161 High solids. I have sprayed many gallons of the stuff & am used to it, but have never waited this long. I have had plenty of other thing to do so I just let it sit. If the 3000 grit doesn't work, I might hit the panels with 600-800 & re clear. Might actually be easier.

If it was any other car I wouldn't be that rattled about it. It does look nice, but if I look directly at the reflection of a light tube, I can make see the lines.

Sure wish there was a way to take pictures of the micro stuff we all deal with here. Just no way to capture those little details. I know were on the same page though. The human eye is pretty amazing

EDIT: part of the frustration is I have to polish of course to see the sand marks. The 3000 trizact doesn't cut back into polished clear very well, so its really difficult to try & sand more after I hit the wheel to it. Those disks just hydroplane once its been compounded. I have to scratch the surface with paper, but the finest I have is 2500, so its like starting over when I do that.

Didn't mean to steer this thread away from its intent. Was working on the car when I posted.

68ragtop
07-22-2016, 07:51 AM
So, I did more sanding & polishing on test panels & I figured out what's going on.

The trizact disks are holding up better than I first thought, the problem is they are too soft even without the interface pad to cut the 2500 grit scratches out. Yes, they sand them smooth, but even when going to the 3000 grit trizact, it mimics the scratch lines & the are still visible. So yes, they are sanding, but the disks are just too soft for really hard clear. If I sand extra long with the 3000, the marks will get less noticeable, but I am taking off more & more clear & still not getting the surface ultra flat.

I would never have dreamed that a 2500 grit scratch is course enough for this to happen, but no question that's what's going on.
I can change directions, or even sand in circles with the 2500 & they will be there.

I am not sure 3000 grit will be enough either, but that will be my next test. I see there are grits up to 5000 sold in the UK.
Is that paper the same grade system I wonder? I will post a link a bit later.

Again, this is trying to get the paint surface "ultra" flat. I can only see these lines the right direction against the fluorescent tubes in my shop & I have a lot of them. When I bring a polished panel into my garage side where I have conventional lighting, they look fantastic. So, the only way there will ever be seen is under very bright long tubes, but if it can be made a little close to flat, why not? :)

xtremekustomz
07-22-2016, 10:28 AM
I am going to try the mystic cut, but first I am going to have to use something with more grit than the 3M rubbing compound, or finer paper. Pretty frustrated. currently can't seem to get out 2500 grit scratch marks & 3000 grit trizact won't do it either. Yes, they are 2500 marks, if I change the direction of the sanding, the marks will change to that direction. The 3000 grit trizact sheets will work to some digree but I can barely get them to last 1/3 of a panel & they are non effective. even then I see random marks. The clear is like concrete :( First time I ever waited this long to sand & polish & I am paying the price.

waited extra long to make sure it was tight, & boy is it ever. Would look great for a local car show, but under the all the bright fluorescent tubes in my shop & can still make out the tiny micro scratch marks. Its driving me nuts.

Only way I can make the scratch less noticeable it to use the 1500 trizact, then 3000,
but then I can see the orbital marks from the 1500. All that is doing though is tricking the eyes by not having lines to follow.

Might have to order 3000 grit paper & see what that does. Not too happy at the moment.

Get a wool pad to cut first. It will go a lot faster. Keep in mind you have to let the compound cut. This is a video i did a while back of 3d aat cutting 1200 grit scratches with a wool pad followed by foam. If the 1500 is leaving pigtails you may have to just keep going over those areas to cut them out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrUKAOFBxYk

On another note Menzerna makes a compound and polish designed for hard clearcoats. I think it is the fg400 and po85rd

68ragtop
07-22-2016, 02:56 PM
Get a wool pad to cut first. It will go a lot faster. Keep in mind you have to let the compound cut. This is a video i did a while back of 3d aat cutting 1200 grit scratches with a wool pad followed by foam. If the 1500 is leaving pigtails you may have to just keep going over those areas to cut them out.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrUKAOFBxYk

On another note Menzerna makes a compound and polish designed for hard clearcoats. I think it is the fg400 and po85rd

Thanks!

I picked up some 3000G paper from another supplier on the edge of town. Small place, but wow, do they have a lot of supplies crammed into a small building! narrow isles with tall shelving units. I was impressed! They even had a Wizards display with just about every product they make. :thumb: So Anyway, going by touch, the 3000 paper I picked up does feel finer than the 2500 3M I have been using. I am cautiously optimistic. I would rather try to sand with a higher grit before trying a really aggressive compound. I did try 3M rubbing compound with a twisted wool pad & it wouldn't take them out. pulled to a shine in seconds, but the micro lines remained. :(

I am anxious to find out what will happen with the new paper, but won't be back in the shop until later this afternoon, or maybe tomorrow morning.

BTW, what type of light are you using in the video? I have tried several LED lights to see if I can see things like lower level paper scratches, etc. Nothing seems to do much for me.

xtremekustomz
07-22-2016, 04:37 PM
Thanks!

I picked up some 3000G paper from another supplier on the edge of town. Small place, but wow, do they have a lot of supplies crammed into a small building! narrow isles with tall shelving units. I was impressed! They even had a Wizards display with just about every product they make. :thumb: So Anyway, going by touch, the 3000 paper I picked up does feel finer than the 2500 3M I have been using. I am cautiously optimistic. I would rather try to sand with a higher grit before trying a really aggressive compound. I did try 3M rubbing compound with a twisted wool pad & it wouldn't take them out. pulled to a shine in seconds, but the micro lines remained. :(

I am anxious to find out what will happen with the new paper, but won't be back in the shop until later this afternoon, or maybe tomorrow morning.

BTW, what type of light are you using in the video? I have tried several LED lights to see if I can see things like lower level paper scratches, etc. Nothing seems to do much for me.

It's a light I got at Autozone. It has a single led. I cant remember the lumens but I think it was around 700. Normally I use 500 watt halogens but for small areas/denibbing I use this.

68ragtop
07-24-2016, 10:17 AM
Getting closer..... the 3K paper I picked up is finer & the scratch lines are easier to buff out. so that seems successful, However this 3K paper is not very resistive to water. It's a wet paper but the backing gets weak so quick the paper wrinkles under my block in no time, so now the bumps in the paper are making the surface sand unevenly. So instead of small scratch line, now I am getting wider lines that catch the light. Getting closer but not there yet. :(


Its amazing what you can see magnified in super flat clear.

68ragtop
07-24-2016, 07:34 PM
Well, its not the wrinkles in the paper, its just the paper itself. Did some more testing. Wet Sanding with 3M 2500, the surface when dry is consistently smooth looking, when I sand with the 3000 grit, the dried surface is not consistent looking. It has varying cut & "glossy" lines following the direction I am sanding. Almost as if the paper is pilling, but it looks clean. Even a fresh sheet will do it almost immediately. I'll try the meguiars 3000 & hope its better. I wasted a lot of time today trying to figure what was wrong, just never noticed this. I Hope it's just the paper quality. This problem is getting old.... :redface:

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/SS-263_USC_Abrasives_Accessories_0813.pdf

Len
07-24-2016, 08:51 PM
Well, its not the wrinkles in the paper, its just the paper itself. Did some more testing. Wet Sanding with 3M 2500, the surface when dry is consistently smooth looking, when I sand with the 3000 grit, the dried surface is not consistent looking. It has varying cut & "glossy" lines following the direction I am sanding. Almost as if the paper is pilling, but it looks clean. Even a fresh sheet will do it almost immediately. I'll try the meguiars 3000 & hope its better. I wasted a lot of time today trying to figure what was wrong, just never noticed this. I Hope it's just the paper quality. This problem is getting old.... :redface:

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/SS-263_USC_Abrasives_Accessories_0813.pdf

I hope it's not just scratches from the more coarse grits that are not being fully removed by sanding with finer grits. Sometimes those scratches can be a real pain to remove, that's why we rarely start our sanding with anything heavier that 1500.

68ragtop
07-24-2016, 09:35 PM
I hope it's not just scratches from the more coarse grits that are not being fully removed by sanding with finer grits. Sometimes those scratches can be a real pain to remove, that's why we rarely start our sanding with anything heavier that 1500.

I kinda wish it was, that would be to be easier to fix. When I see the marks & I re-sand in the opposite direction, the marks will follow that opposite direction. I have tried hard & soft block. same thing happens. The trizact disks are too soft to get rid of them too. its going to take a harder block & better paper I'm thinking. (and hoping)

Now that being said these scratches are cutting out with the polisher looking straight at the panel & it comes to a full gloss easily. What I am seeing is the scratch lines being magnified in the clear when I look at a shop light reflected at a 15-20 degree angle. The most revealing angle. Just seems like I should be able to get the clear dead flat & its not happening. Something is odd with this 3000G paper though. it puts shiny streaks in the clear as if something is rubbing, but not sanding.

I have tried to take a picture, but my camera can't focus on just the light. It will focus on the entire reflection & then everything look just fine.

xtremekustomz
07-25-2016, 05:14 PM
I kinda wish it was, that would be to be easier to fix. When I see the marks & I re-sand in the opposite direction, the marks will follow that opposite direction. I have tried hard & soft block. same thing happens. The trizact disks are too soft to get rid of them too. its going to take a harder block & better paper I'm thinking. (and hoping)

Now that being said these scratches are cutting out with the polisher looking straight at the panel & it comes to a full gloss easily. What I am seeing is the scratch lines being magnified in the clear when I look at a shop light reflected at a 15-20 degree angle. The most revealing angle. Just seems like I should be able to get the clear dead flat & its not happening. Something is odd with this 3000G paper though. it puts shiny streaks in the clear as if something is rubbing, but not sanding.

I have tried to take a picture, but my camera can't focus on just the light. It will focus on the entire reflection & then everything look just fine.

Be careful cause you may soon cut into the base. If it is giving you that much trouble just sand and re-clear it. Be better to do it now that when you cut through and have to re-base a spot too. That can open up another can of worms.