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TheCoatingStore.com

IPT
01-17-2014, 05:22 PM
Hey Guys
I got a couple of questions. First off, Id like to get the factory paint on my 2012 Camaro SS looking better. Surely the factory OP can be leveled some without me risking trashing the paint. Second, I have tried my hand at painting some base and clear coat. All in all I did okay (test panels) but have some OP (some places more than others) that I would like to learn to correct. I'd will learnt to spray better but also need to learn to correct it when it does happen...even if it is from the factory like on my Camaro.

So, I can practice on the test panels. I think Ill need to wet sand those with 1500 then maybe 2000, then buff? Or should I start with 2000 then go 3000?

I have experience with the PC 7424 and have used Menzerna FG 400, SI 1500 and either the 3 or 4000. I used orange pads for the first step, then white for the next and used the power lock to seal it. Is the FG 400 harsh enough to be considered buffing? I'm not familiar enough with the terminology of buffing vs polishing.

I was generally happy with the result using the Menzerna stuff, but there were still some marks (Black Trailblazer). I think (at least on my painted test panels) I want to push myself and learn new skills. Seems like the direct drive machine (rotary?) is faster, and might help me get a better overall finish. I'm thinking this is true for levelling the OP on my test panels, probably to get a better correction on my Truck and then, maybe my Camaro (its SIM so could probably hide some of the newbie errors I am sure to do!)

In a nut shell- newly painted tested panels (4 months) need to level OP wet sand optimal grits, then what? Will the FG 400 do the job after wet sanding?

Using a rotary tool is it time to graduate and push the envelope? Any particular machine you recomend? Im thinking for where I want to go, (best finish in shortest amount of time) that is the way to go. Am I correct? Any thoughts, links, suggestion, or sharing of personal experience will be appreciated!

OP on cleared panel I'd like to level - ignore the other one - that was my first test and I got some blotching.

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk319/IPTalaska/Camaro%205/before-and-after-coverage-and-reflection_zps096e3cd9.jpg (http://s283.photobucket.com/user/IPTalaska/media/Camaro%205/before-and-after-coverage-and-reflection_zps096e3cd9.jpg.html)

Dust Nibs I need to get out.

http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk319/IPTalaska/Camaro%205/Dust-nibs_zps0aec656c.jpg (http://s283.photobucket.com/user/IPTalaska/media/Camaro%205/Dust-nibs_zps0aec656c.jpg.html)

Len
01-17-2014, 06:37 PM
The dust nibs may be difficult to remove depending on how deep they go into the finish.

If the surface is real rough you may need to start with a coarse paper like 800 or 1000 grit but the depth of the top coat also comes into play. The Menzerna will probably do the job after you take it to a 2000 scratch or finer.

IPT
01-17-2014, 07:21 PM
Thanks Len, for the OP in the first pic do you think I should start with 2000, 1500, or lower? Do you think the Porter Cable DA will be up to handling it after the 2000 grit? I get frustrated with the speed of the PC Dual Action and wonder about using something more powerful or direct driven.

Len
01-17-2014, 10:50 PM
Thanks Len, for the OP in the first pic do you think I should start with 2000, 1500, or lower? Do you think the Porter Cable DA will be up to handling it after the 2000 grit? I get frustrated with the speed of the PC Dual Action and wonder about using something more powerful or direct driven.

If you're using a DA it should have a 3/32" or 1/16" throw and be used with something like Finishing Film or Trizact. If the surface is rough but has enough material on it you can start with a more coarse grit like 800 or 1000 and work you way up to the finer grits like 1500 and 3000.

We use all hook and loop (Velcro) disks for this type of work and use the finer grits in wet Trizact. The Finishing Film tends to wear a lot faster than the Trizact.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3M0950.jpg
Finishing Film

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3m2088.jpg
Trizact (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=ABS&Category_Code=M3)

Henry
01-18-2014, 11:11 AM
[QUOTE=IPT;242137]Hey Guys
I got a couple of questions. First off, Id like to get the factory paint on my 2012 Camaro SS looking better. Surely the factory OP can be leveled some without me risking trashing the paint.QUOTE]

Below is a link to our Resident EXPERT showing just what you want to do. The link is worth reviewing not just to sand OEM paint but a learning method proper colorsanding. REMEMBER you do NOT have much clear on your OEM car and Robert IS a professional in this field, does this all day long and does it to multi million dollar cars. Your end result may vary:

http://www.autobodystore.com/rsw.shtml

Henry

IPT
01-18-2014, 02:26 PM
Thanks for the link. I think I won't have to cajones to do my car .. but I can certainly play with my test panels and any
thing else I spray in the future.

Do you guys have thoughts on the Flex 3401? I find my PC 7424 to be painfully slow and I am thinking to upgrade.

Len
01-18-2014, 03:00 PM
Thanks for the link. I think I won't have to cajones to do my car .. but I can certainly play with my test panels and any
thing else I spray in the future.

Do you guys have thoughts on the Flex 3401? I find my PC 7424 to be painfully slow and I am thinking to upgrade.

I've never used the Flex, we use the Makita 9227 rotary then the Makita BO6040 orbital buffer to finish some of our work. I guess the Flex would be ok if you can lock the rotation so that it's not a random orbital. Random orbitals take forever to make any difference.

IPT
01-18-2014, 06:11 PM
LOL. yeah, I gues I am just scared of the pure rotary drives. The Flex is gear driven, so the rotation is forced even under load, but it is random in nature. As I understand it the rotation is forced but the element of safety for a new or intermediate user is still built in as it has a random movement.

Len
01-18-2014, 06:50 PM
LOL. yeah, I gues I am just scared of the pure rotary drives. The Flex is gear driven, so the rotation is forced even under load, but it is random in nature. As I understand it the rotation is forced but the element of safety for a new or intermediate user is still built in as it has a random movement.

Yes, they're really designed to do different jobs. The rotary is much faster but not as gentle as the orbital and the rotary gets a lot more work done quickly while the orbital is great at adding that finesse at the end of the job when needed.