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View Full Version : 85 monte carlo repaint questions on laquer



tom demarco
09-16-2012, 09:14 PM
85 monte carlo with original laquer, need some alternatives, media blast would me talke out new drive train new interior remove windows etc. I dont wat to do that liquid stripper can cause issues only option is mechanically sanding stripping, could you use acrialic enamal with a hardner if so could you clear over it and then samd clear or can someone aim me in the right directiom Dupont chroma colar any thought thanks

Len
09-16-2012, 10:29 PM
85 monte carlo with original laquer, need some alternatives, media blast would me talke out new drive train new interior remove windows etc. I dont wat to do that liquid stripper can cause issues only option is mechanically sanding stripping, could you use acrialic enamal with a hardner if so could you clear over it and then samd clear or can someone aim me in the right directiom Dupont chroma colar any thought thanks

If it's original paint you can sand it off pretty easy using a rotary sander/polisher like the one below and some 80 grit sanding disks to go with it. Then prime and block sand then paint. Do you want it to look original? If so then you probably won't want clear coat. Enamel is cheaper but not nearly as good as acrylic urethane. Urethane lasts longer and is easier to repair.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/makita9227cx3.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=T2)

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fap80.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FAPS6258-p80&Category_Code=SPAR)

Henry
09-17-2012, 09:00 AM
85 monte carlo with original laquer, need some alternatives, media blast would me talke out new drive train new interior remove windows etc. I dont wat to do that liquid stripper can cause issues only option is mechanically sanding stripping, could you use acrialic enamal with a hardner if so could you clear over it and then samd clear or can someone aim me in the right directiom Dupont chroma colar any thought thanks

In addition to what Len said, Monte Carlo began base/clear in 1986. Check your paint code on the vehicle to see if it might be bc/cc if a late 85 built car. What color is the car; landau top; rot/rust; overall condition; and is this a car you want to keep or turn around?

Don't know what tools or experience you have but I would go bc/cc.

Henry

tom demarco
09-17-2012, 10:10 AM
In addition to what Len said, Monte Carlo began base/clear in 1986. Check your paint code on the vehicle to see if it might be bc/cc if a late 85 built car. What color is the car; landau top; rot/rust; overall condition; and is this a car you want to keep or turn around?

Don't know what tools or experience you have but I would go bc/cc.

Henry

Henry is says laquer on the code, little rust if any, no rot, care was garaged for 15 years with an engine issue, i put a 427 chevy in it, interioris mind, extensive restoration but not frame off, I am ase master certified, I am 62 retired automotive teacher atcollege level, I used to paint cars every summer for one of those maaco type places so I can paint I also did the firewall jams trunk interior edges and firewall with 2 part urethane also paint fender wells and under new hood I love the paint I have painted laquer back in the day and used to paint acryllic enamel with a heardner back in the day for a trucking company, no vinal roof, recently had a body man repair l/r quarter panel ground out some old body worked and repaired it left it in pramer and tracer coat, the new hood he also primed and applied tracer, it has a few tiny dids i was going to repair with plastic and block the whole car and now am hit with this dilema, I do not have a place to paint this and am used to the old devilbus guns, new technology has passed me buy, the car is dark burgandy original color

Henry
09-18-2012, 09:51 AM
Henry is says laquer on the code, little rust if any, no rot, care was garaged for 15 years with an engine issue, i put a 427 chevy in it, interioris mind, extensive restoration but not frame off, I am ase master certified, I am 62 retired automotive teacher atcollege level, I used to paint cars every summer for one of those maaco type places so I can paint I also did the firewall jams trunk interior edges and firewall with 2 part urethane also paint fender wells and under new hood I love the paint I have painted laquer back in the day and used to paint acryllic enamel with a heardner back in the day for a trucking company, no vinal roof, recently had a body man repair l/r quarter panel ground out some old body worked and repaired it left it in pramer and tracer coat, the new hood he also primed and applied tracer, it has a few tiny dids i was going to repair with plastic and block the whole car and now am hit with this dilema, I do not have a place to paint this and am used to the old devilbus guns, new technology has passed me buy, the car is dark burgandy original color

With what you described I don't think AE should go on that car. Not to worry about "new technology" cause it's actually easier to paint a car today for durability, looks and ease of repair (blending). You can learn to shoot bc/cc right here on this site. You can even buy any spraygun or tool you need right here as well. LEN owns the site and also owns his own custom shop and uses what he sells. If it's junk he won't sell it.

You said you put 2 part urethane in the jambs. I take it that was bc/cc - YES? If so then there's your new technology. Someone you know has a place to paint the car; you just haven't thought hard enough yet.

That's a nice color. The majority of the Monte Carlo "SS" were that color. Forgot if they made an SS in 85. I would continue to work the body for paint. If you are unsure of what or how to do what you need then post your questions here and other members will chime in to help you. Lastly, is you also have the CLASSROOM located at the top of every page from the HOME page.

Henry

tom demarco
09-18-2012, 05:52 PM
With what you described I don't think AE should go on that car. Not to worry about "new technology" cause it's actually easier to paint a car today for durability, looks and ease of repair (blending). You can learn to shoot bc/cc right here on this site. You can even buy any spraygun or tool you need right here as well. LEN owns the site and also owns his own custom shop and uses what he sells. If it's junk he won't sell it.

You said you put 2 part urethane in the jambs. I take it that was bc/cc - YES? If so then there's your new technology. Someone you know has a place to paint the car; you just haven't thought hard enough yet.

That's a nice color. The majority of the Monte Carlo "SS" were that color. Forgot if they made an SS in 85. I would continue to work the body for paint. If you are unsure of what or how to do what you need then post your questions here and other members will chime in to help you. Lastly, is you also have the CLASSROOM located at the top of every page from the HOME page.

Henry

henry is was paint and hardner no clear, so it is an ss with a 427 400 turbo

tom demarco
09-18-2012, 05:53 PM
If it's original paint you can sand it off pretty easy using a rotary sander/polisher like the one below and some 80 grit sanding disks to go with it. Then prime and block sand then paint. Do you want it to look original? If so then you probably won't want clear coat. Enamel is cheaper but not nearly as good as acrylic urethane. Urethane lasts longer and is easier to repair.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/makita9227cx3.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=T2)

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fap80.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FAPS6258-p80&Category_Code=SPAR)

if I strip epoxy before primer then block what order please

Len
09-18-2012, 10:22 PM
if I strip epoxy before primer then block what order please

The link below will take you to a similar process. The only difference is that you may want to apply a "direct-to-metal" primer first then a filler primer.


http://www.autobodystore.com/lac6.jpg
Strip and Repaint LINK (http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.shtml)

Henry
09-19-2012, 07:55 AM
The link below will take you to a similar process. The only difference is that you may want to apply a "direct-to-metal" primer first then a filler primer.


http://www.autobodystore.com/lac6.jpg
Strip and Repaint LINK (http://www.autobodystore.com/strip_&_paint.shtml)

Tom, earlier I told you about the CLASSROOM. That's where the 'link' Len gave you came from. Check the list of what's in there when you get a chance.

Henry

tom demarco
09-25-2012, 08:06 AM
If it's original paint you can sand it off pretty easy using a rotary sander/polisher like the one below and some 80 grit sanding disks to go with it. Then prime and block sand then paint. Do you want it to look original? If so then you probably won't want clear coat. Enamel is cheaper but not nearly as good as acrylic urethane. Urethane lasts longer and is easier to repair.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/makita9227cx3.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=T2)

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fap80.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FAPS6258-p80&Category_Code=SPAR)

What kind of primer do i use, it will be sitting and have very mind door dings to fix before painting so need to get a primer on it my local guy carries dupont can someone tell me what primer to put on it before blocking

Len
09-25-2012, 09:46 AM
What kind of primer do i use, it will be sitting and have very mind door dings to fix before painting so need to get a primer on it my local guy carries dupont can someone tell me what primer to put on it before blocking

Apply a good epoxy primer to protect the metal while you do the repairs then grind it off before you repair the metal and reprime the spots as the work is finished.