PDA

View Full Version : Buffing Old ChromaClear



DennyG
07-09-2012, 06:41 PM
I`m trying to re-buff my racecar it was painted in June 1995 with Chroma Base Chroma Clear. It has random sctratches from what I assume were caused by dirty towels and or sponges over the years.
I`m buffing with Presta 1,500 and a wool pad. Looks good till I apply the 3M hand glaze. Has a milky look to it and all the scratches are still there.
I`ve tried foam pads too,they streak the finish.
What am I doing wrong?

Len
07-09-2012, 07:03 PM
I`m trying to re-buff my racecar it was painted in June 1995 with Chroma Base Chroma Clear. It has random sctratches from what I assume were caused by dirty towels and or sponges over the years.
I`m buffing with Presta 1,500 and a wool pad. Looks good till I apply the 3M hand glaze. Has a milky look to it and all the scratches are still there.
I`ve tried foam pads too,they streak the finish.
What am I doing wrong?

Depending on the amount of paint you need to remove you may need a more aggressive compound or you may need to use some fine sandpaper first.

Henry
07-10-2012, 10:29 AM
I`m trying to re-buff my racecar it was painted in June 1995 with Chroma Base Chroma Clear. It has random sctratches from what I assume were caused by dirty towels and or sponges over the years.
I`m buffing with Presta 1,500 and a wool pad. Looks good till I apply the 3M hand glaze. Has a milky look to it and all the scratches are still there.
I`ve tried foam pads too,they streak the finish.
What am I doing wrong?

Describe the stratches. If you can feel them with your fingernail no polish or wax will be getting them out. You can have success with minor scuffs and marks from brushing against bushes, etc.

I wouldn't combine Presta with the 3M. One will loosen the chemical of the other and only make a mess for you. Presta 1500 & 2000 is a glaze itself that is intended for buffing but can be used by hand as well.
Another thing is you should clean the surface with a claybar and/or strong dishwashing soap. What you are seeing as cloudy is all the contaminants on the surface through the years. Buffing or just by hand will just swirl all that around. ChromaClear is good stuff and should come back. Just make sure you have enough of it on the surface. Below is a product to help you:

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=WIZ11048&Category_Code=M3

DennyG
07-10-2012, 06:24 PM
Scratches appear to be mostly fromm the original cut and buff now that I`ve got it clean have tried buffing it a dozen or so times.
So far the best improvement is from using Carnuba wax and wiping it off before it dries completely.
I assume the wax is acting as a cleaner and reducing the "milky" effect. Which would follow the advise to clean the surface with clay/soap/or Wizard stuff etc......
I think to get it "perfect" will require sanding.

Len
07-10-2012, 10:24 PM
Scratches appear to be mostly fromm the original cut and buff now that I`ve got it clean have tried buffing it a dozen or so times.
So far the best improvement is from using Carnuba wax and wiping it off before it dries completely.
I assume the wax is acting as a cleaner and reducing the "milky" effect. Which would follow the advise to clean the surface with clay/soap/or Wizard stuff etc......
I think to get it "perfect" will require sanding.

The wax is only depositing a coating that is HIDING the problem. Sand it with some 2500 grit sandpaper to remove a slight amount of clear then polish it. You should first remove the wax with some warm soapy water so that it doesn't clog the fine sandpaper.