Using stud welder for the 1st time

[stanclub]

Just got my HS4550 kit and ready to use it for the my 1st time of stud welding. I have read the instruction and watched some youtube clips about the process. But, can someone share more about the exact process with me? Also, what should I pay attention to?

One big question I always have in mind : Should the battery be disconnected before welding? I thought I saw someone doing it but he was using a totally different welding tool, not a gun.

Thanks for sharing!!

[Bob K]

I try to disconnect the battery whenever I do any kind of welding on a car. That includes the stud welder. However sometimes I forget. I’ve never had a problem when I forget but I still try to remember to disconnect it. It’s cheap insurance on expensive electronic parts.

As for telling you how to use the gun, that is something you need to figure out for yourself since you have it in hand. I’m not trying to be sarcastic; it’s just that there are lots of variables and your taste in procedure may be vastly different than mine. For instance I try to get my studs to just barley stick to the metal. That happens by tapping the trigger for as short a time as I can manage. The result is a stud that will fall off easily if you try to pull at an angle but will pull out a dent if you carefully attach the pulling tool and pull perpendicular to the panel. Doing that prevents a big burn spot on the back side of the panel where you may not be able to repair the paint. It also leaves the front without needing a lot of grinding and metal repair. If you don’t like the chance that the stud will break off while you are using it then hold the trigger for a half second or even a full second and the stud will get firmly attached to the panel. Then a little grinding with a 36 grit Roloc disc will heal up the scar but in the interim you will be able to apply massive amounts of force to that little pin. Just keep in mind that you are just trying to move a little sheet metal, not straighten a frame.

Bob K

[Len]

Just got my HS4550 kit and ready to use it for the my 1st time of stud welding. I have read the instruction and watched some youtube clips about the process. But, can someone share more about the exact process with me? Also, what should I pay attention to?

One big question I always have in mind : Should the battery be disconnected before welding? I thought I saw someone doing it but he was using a totally different welding tool, not a gun.

Thanks for sharing!!

The amount of time the trigger is pulled and the placement of the stud are about the only variables that can cause problems. I never disconnect the vehicle's battery and I've never has a problem but you never know.

In most cases the stud is placed in the deepest part of the dent unless it's a deep dent then you might start in a more shallow area and work your way in to the deep spots.

Time on the trigger varies depending on how intense the pull needs to be. If it's just a minor dent then just a short touch on the trigger will be enough to pull out the dent and the stud is easily removed by putting a pair of dykes behind it and twisting or even just bending the stud back and forth so that it snaps off. However if the dent is going to take more of a pull you'll need to hold the trigger longer then cut the stem off of the stud and grind the head off the of the metal.

The hammering slide hammer is usually only needed if the dent is severe, most dents can be addressed by pulling on the stud and tapping around the pull with a body hammer. I like a chisel hammer for most of these pulls. We use the Mini-Puller more than the slide hammer because you have better control of the action.

[stanclub]

Thanks for the tips! I now have a better idea how to proceed. I guess that I will practice it a bit on a junk panel before I jump on a car.

[Len]

Thanks for the tips! I now have a better idea how to proceed. I guess that I will practice it a bit on a junk panel before I jump on a car.

Just remember that it's best to work the metal so that it's perfectly level or slightly low when filler makes it level. If you pull too much and make it slightly high it won't look as good when it's refinished.

[Henry]

Thanks for the tips! I now have a better idea how to proceed. I guess that I will practice it a bit on a junk panel before I jump on a car.

You will love owning this tool and learn how quickly it PAYS for itself.

Make SURE your metal is ground properly with no paint/primer. Sometimes for the deeper creases you can't get it ground right so raise the area around it first.
When changing studs keep your FINGERS away from the tip of the welder which is HOT!!!
Weld the stud straight; perpendicular to the panel.

Watch out for heat BEHIND the panel you are welding. I saw a backyarder (good bodyman) who was taking out a small crease on a Dodge Caravan on the quarter panel. He was using medium trigger pulls and welded about 4 studs. The sound insulation on the other side started smuldering from the heat.

Take an old fender and do 3 sample welds and look at the backside as you pull the trigger. Do one with lite trigger, medium and one at full trigger. Watch how the back gets red hot.
Long trigger pulls make it tough to grind the stud off since it was welded to really hold. You end up grinding too much on that spot and weaken that area of metal, warp it and possibly grind that spot right out and now have a hole. You really need to practice yourself as Bob K said in your first reply.

My stud welder still looks as good as yours (not that it matters) but I use it and lay it on clean cardboard between pulls, clean it and put it away. Never been laying or dragged on concrete. Maybe because I appreciate the thing SO MUCH. Mine paid for itself FIRST time I used it by saving 3 panels I would have had to change without it.
Once you play enough you'll get to know all you can do with it. This is a BEST investment for anyone. Good luck and keep us informed. Henry