Do I need to take the jambs to bare metal? and do I need sealer?

[junk]

I've been reading the forum a lot lately. Very good reading. I've got some questions about painting jambs and what products I should use and in what order. Let me start out that I've painted about 20 vehicles. Mostly wreck rebuilds. I learned body work from a guy who didn't necessarily always do things right. Lately I'm working on a rebuilding an 89 crewcab ford truck. I'm getting ready to work the cab over.

Regarding jambs my plan has been to feather out scratches (180 or 220) and shoot 2K epoxy primer first then do urethane over it so I can sand it out (400 wet). then paint and clear over the sanded urethane. Does that seem reasonable? I'm planning to do a similar process on the overall vehicle accept I'll fix the dents and stuff using filler.

One thing I always struggle with is do I need a sealer over urethane primer? Or high build primer? I was thinking I could use the 2K epoxy primer as a sealer, but it lays out poorly and is a night mare to sand. I'm not positive on the number, but I'm using an omni epoxy primer and think it's a MP170. I've heard you can thin it, but tried it a little and didn't have much luck.

I was thinking a 2k epoxy primer sealer would be good because inevitably when I block out a panel I burn through some corner or edge to bare metal and would like to be able to do one last coat of primer that lays nicely and covers up the metal before shooting paint.

Thanks for the help!

[Len]

I've been reading the forum a lot lately. Very good reading. I've got some questions about painting jambs and what products I should use and in what order. Let me start out that I've painted about 20 vehicles. Mostly wreck rebuilds. I learned body work from a guy who didn't necessarily always do things right. Lately I'm working on a rebuilding an 89 crewcab ford truck. I'm getting ready to work the cab over.

Regarding jambs my plan has been to feather out scratches (180 or 220) and shoot 2K epoxy primer first then do urethane over it so I can sand it out (400 wet). then paint and clear over the sanded urethane. Does that seem reasonable? I'm planning to do a similar process on the overall vehicle accept I'll fix the dents and stuff using filler.

One thing I always struggle with is do I need a sealer over urethane primer? Or high build primer? I was thinking I could use the 2K epoxy primer as a sealer, but it lays out poorly and is a night mare to sand. I'm not positive on the number, but I'm using an omni epoxy primer and think it's a MP170. I've heard you can thin it, but tried it a little and didn't have much luck.

I was thinking a 2k epoxy primer sealer would be good because inevitably when I block out a panel I burn through some corner or edge to bare metal and would like to be able to do one last coat of primer that lays nicely and covers up the metal before shooting paint.

Thanks for the help!

Unless the paint in the jambs is peeling or damaged you should be able to just scuff and paint right over it. No primer is needed.

In many cases you don't need to seal over 2K filler primer unless it's porous or you're painting with a paint that doesn't cover well then you'll want to have the car all one color before painting.

Yes, all your bare metal should be primed before it's painted.

It may save you a lot of time and money if you view the Spray Painting 101 Video linked to the bottom of this page.

[another2centsworth]

If the jambs are chipped up bad I would feather them out good with 220. then once over quick with 320. all dry. Shoot epoxy let flash then go top coat. I prefer Kirker epoxy unreduced in a 1.8mm tip finishline gun at 25 psi gun pressure. In this application it will lay down like glass medium wet.

[autobodytech43]

good to have a nice 3" da for jambs as well. The CP7200 is pretty awesome. Saves A LOT of time. As mooch would say, I love my 3 incher!

[junk]

I haven't had a chance to watch the video, but I will.

Ok so a quick question on blocking. by the time you are into your 2nd time primering and blocking are you guys still sanding through to bare metal? I think I sand too much and get to bare when I should stop once I've gotton the guide coat off most the surface?

Thanks for mentioning the 3" D/A that sounds like an excellent idea for sanding the jambs!

Sure I'll have more questions after watching the video.

Thanks,
Jeremy

[Len]

I haven't had a chance to watch the video, but I will.

Ok so a quick question on blocking. by the time you are into your 2nd time primering and blocking are you guys still sanding through to bare metal? I think I sand too much and get to bare when I should stop once I've gotton the guide coat off most the surface?

Thanks for mentioning the 3" D/A that sounds like an excellent idea for sanding the jambs!

Sure I'll have more questions after watching the video.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Depending on how perfect you want the jambs you can either sand the primer until you see metal then reprime and resand or you can just prime with a little epoxy primer then paint. In most cases you don't need to make jambs area perfect because you don't see them very much but if you're doing a top-notch job then jamb perfection is usually a must.

[Chevman]

Personally, I don't even like to see jams perfectly smooth,except on an all out custom. Its just what ever a person likes.