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Tincup
09-29-2011, 10:22 AM
I just finished painting my Hemi Dart, and it came out great, thanks to all the great advice on this forum. Just a quick question, because there is very little peel, I don't think I need to start with 1000, I was going to start wet with 1500, then switch to p3000 Trizact, then buff. Is that OK, or do I need to use 2000 in between? It has 3 wet coats of PPG 2021 on it.

Len
09-29-2011, 12:32 PM
I just finished painting my Hemi Dart, and it came out great, thanks to all the great advice on this forum. Just a quick question, because there is very little peel, I don't think I need to start with 1000, I was going to start wet with 1500, then switch to p3000 Trizact, then buff. Is that OK, or do I need to use 2000 in between? It has 3 wet coats of PPG 2021 on it.

You can jump from 1500 to 3000, we do it all the time.

style
09-29-2011, 12:39 PM
I just finished painting my Hemi Dart, and it came out great, thanks to all the great advice on this forum. Just a quick question, because there is very little peel, I don't think I need to start with 1000, I was going to start wet with 1500, then switch to p3000 Trizact, then buff. Is that OK, or do I need to use 2000 in between? It has 3 wet coats of PPG 2021 on it.

post some pics,and for a true show shine 1500 is not agressive enough to level out that paint try 1000 but i would go with 800 to remove all of the peel then 1500 then buff..

Len
09-29-2011, 04:58 PM
post some pics,and for a true show shine 1500 is not agressive enough to level out that paint try 1000 but i would go with 800 to remove all of the peel then 1500 then buff..

We painted a 56 T Bird a while back, hit it with 1500 and 3000 and buffed. The car went from our shop to reassembly then to a NE Regional T Bird Rally and Show with 700 other classic birds and took 2nd place. The car's owner said that they told him that if he had dusted the car he would have gotten first place. So I guess 1500 was the right grit to start with in this case.

style
09-30-2011, 12:18 AM
We painted a 56 T Bird a while back, hit it with 1500 and 3000 and buffed. The car went from our shop to reassembly then to a NE Regional T Bird Rally and Show with 700 other classic birds and took 2nd place. The car's owner said that they told him that if he had dusted the car he would have gotten first place. So I guess 1500 was the right grit to start with in this case.

thank god the dust was there to hide all your swirl marks...





j/k,lol..

did you block it with 1500 or da it?

TOGWT
09-30-2011, 03:48 AM
[COLOR="#0000CD"]Finessing (Jewelling) a Paint Surface -

This is another way to gain extra gloss (See also 'Spit Shining)These processes are usually reserved for those who can appreciate the extra effort, and simply want their cars to look their absolute best regardless of cost

Finessing (Jewelling)

[: this process is given various names- Burnishing, Finessing, Jewelling and Finite paint finishing]

Around 1950 body shops would call it jewelling because they would have to re-buff single stage paint's a week or two after hand over to the client. . After a curing process they would have the customer bring the car back and finely burnish the surface with a finish polish that had almost no abrasive abilities and a soft wool pad, this step was referred to as ’jewelling’ to bring out a deep lustre in the paint surface.

Most detailers associate machine polishing with removing swirls, scratches and water spots and producing a level surface, but show car owners, Concours d’élégance participants and paint renovation technicians have long known that all paint finishes, even brand new finishes, can be improved by a final paint burnishing, increasing maximum gloss by reducing microscopic abrasion scratches on the paint's surface, which will increase the gloss of the paint.

Finessing a paint surface is a process of reducing applied pressure and machine speed in combination with a longer polishing time. It is really effective with a rotary polisher and a diminishing abrasive. Be cognizant that excessive pressure will make the pad / polish combination more aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy (friction heat) which may result in a strike-through

Before using this optional step the paint surface should be scratch-free, level and any holograms are removed. If the surface is polished ’flat’ it will reflect light evenly, as opposed to refracting it at high and low spots, which will increase the overall reflective optics of the paint. Once this has been accomplished the paint surface can be further finessed by using a non-abrasive ultra soft pad and a diminishing polish combination. It can sometimes take up to four hours or more finessing a paint finish if it is felt that a higher gloss is obtainable.

Typically the final step in surface polishing; using a finishing polish (Menzerna PO 85 or PO 106FF) in tandem with a pad that has no abrasive abilities (LC CCS Gold (100 PPI) Finishing foam). By using little pressure at the beginning of the pass to help fracture the abrasives since the pad isn't providing abrasion and an ultra fine finishing polish, for the removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of holograms

If the polish runs out of surface lubrication add Gloss It EVP Pad Prime is high-grade lubricating oil that greatly extends machine polishing times.

Rotary Polisher –use slow linier movements, machine passes in single direction using medium pressure. Use a non aggressive foam pad (LC Gold 100 PPI) and start at 1500, 1200 and then reduce speed to 1000 RPM, adding a tiny bead of polish and then finally finish at 600 RPM, using moderate constant pressure. until the diminishing abrasive goes clear (somewhat similar to Vaseline®) and then make few passes at 800 / 900RPM using little to no pressure.

By working the abrasives, so that only the finest particulates remain, these micro-fine abrasives will provide the highest obtainable gloss, without leaving any micro-marring of the paint surface.

Larger diameter pads can be beneficial for final polishing, since they can be used longer before they load up with buffing residue. This can be the difference between a pristine finish, and one that is mildly marred with ultra-fine hazing.

Random Orbital Polisher - use a moderately non aggressive foam pad (LC White) and firm constant pressure, set speed at about 5000 OPM (Flex 3401 using speed setting 3) until polish breaks down then reduce speed to approx. 3500 OPM and work until refined.
Another technique when using a rotary by having your pads off- centre for an orbital style spin does work well at stopping holograms and should only be used with the jewelling process once the polish has broken down, or by using a non-diminishing polish.

Len
09-30-2011, 06:18 AM
thank god the dust was there to hide all your swirl marks...





j/k,lol..

did you block it with 1500 or da it?

We used 1500 and 3000 grit Trizact on a DA for most of the sanding and hand sanded tight spots.


http://www.autobodystore.com/finished7.jpg
LINK (http://www.autobodystore.com/tbird.shtml)

Tincup
09-30-2011, 08:19 AM
Beautiful looking Bird, Sounds like that is the plan, do 1500 wet then 3000 on the DA. Thanks for the advice...:D




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style
10-02-2011, 10:11 PM
Beautiful looking Bird, Sounds like that is the plan, do 1500 wet then 3000 on the DA. Thanks for the advice...:D




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the car looks great dont know if thats dust or fisheye on the right rear of the trunk,that is one odd clean strangley organised spray room ive never seen an a/c unit mounted like that either..put up some more pics!!

so your gonna go 1500wet with a hard block then 3k wet with a da?