Old Style Ford Bronco

[wisconsinjimmy]

:0Hey good people have been away for awhile and now the kid drags in this Bronco (1973?) , really rusty and has purchased about every panel on the car, in other words he is going to build a car from the concrete up. First we need to remove the engine, next the body and I have suggested to keep it square is that he weld everything closed, lift off the body and start with the frame, once frame is done will place the body cross members in position and lay down the floor pan. Here is a question should he weld the floor pan in its entirety up to and including the toe boards first then lay the floor as one piece? Pics to follow tomorrow.
Jim
Cushing, WI

[Len]

I normally replace all the weak metal and leave the good metal. Remove the rusted metal first then cut the pans to repair the holes.

Pictures would help.

[wisconsinjimmy]

Hey Len,
I will get pics tomorrow but trust me this thing is beyond rust, we took the HP washer to it and was able to blow holes in the panels, if we remove the top the rear 1/4 panels would flop out like a dead chickens wing, my son has purchased both quarters both B-Pillars both rear tail sections a complete rear floor pan and seat pans as well as the floor and toe boards all support pieces and new A-Pillars along with new inner and outer fenders and the rear wheel tubs. The only good metal is the tunnel where the transfer case lever is and the firewall.

[wisconsinjimmy]

Here are the photos, the last one is the entire sheetmetal assembly, 1/4 and front fenders are not shown. The top will be sold as he has a canvas top for it.
http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/3679/2073743220102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2073743220102250713EbGkcg)
http://inlinethumb11.webshots.com/49354/2710909790102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2710909790102250713LMLmpb)
http://inlinethumb44.webshots.com/48811/2457595250102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2457595250102250713IkLcMp)
http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/46737/2794392390102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2794392390102250713HIqDNq)

[wisconsinjimmy]

And some more
http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/49309/2059674650102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2059674650102250713cCQgbt)
http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/18541/2378243870102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2378243870102250713mcZHsh)
http://inlinethumb54.webshots.com/49461/2248087040102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2248087040102250713vsEnLy)
http://inlinethumb62.webshots.com/48957/2668384400102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2668384400102250713QtFshT)

[wisconsinjimmy]

Does it ever end
http://inlinethumb61.webshots.com/47932/2757725390102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2757725390102250713FRBlAb)
http://inlinethumb17.webshots.com/49360/2169856060102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2169856060102250713bhDQKs)
http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/47209/2859817700102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2859817700102250713NhmYpn)
http://inlinethumb10.webshots.com/47753/2411845100102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2411845100102250713NHeZMi)
Grab any part and it wiggles like a bowl of jello
JimG
Cushing, WI

[another2centsworth]

Love that body style. Going back with 302 injected?

[wisconsinjimmy]

Yup, has a built 302 injected under the bench wrapped up like a xmas present

[easymoney]

all i can say is he sure wants a bronco bad to tackle a job like that. no way would i take on something like that.

[wisconsinjimmy]

Question, should the bare panels be painted before welding them on? I am worried that I might not get a good spot, if I weld first I can then apply a primer and let it run down between the parts.

[wisconsinjimmy]

Here are some photos of the project putting the body back together.
http://thumb13.webshots.net/t/83/183/7/43/22/2073743220102250713EbGkcg_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/album/580701611MdABAN)

[Len]

Here are some photos of the project putting the body back together.
http://thumb13.webshots.net/t/83/183/7/43/22/2073743220102250713EbGkcg_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/album/580701611MdABAN)

I would use a "good" weld-thru primer or epoxy primer where the panels come together then seal the seams well when you're finished.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/up789.jpg (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=UP789b&Category_Code=PRI)


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fus802ez.jpg (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ABS&Product_Code=FUSSS&Category_Code=JASS)

[wisconsinjimmy]

Some of the panels such as the pillars, rockers, rear floor and rear corners have E-Coat, I used some enamel reducer and the coating did not smudge, once the entire body is assembled with the rivets it will then be dissasembled and then welded into it's final position. All panels that do not have the E-coat are painted with Zero Rust (brushed on) on both sides. Using rivets allows us to reposition the panels until we get the correct alignment and needless to say some of this asian crap is not cut tru and the sheets that are made here in the states are fairly close, pillars and rear corners are stamped along with the rockers and they do need some tweaking. How well does that fusor work and does it have a long open time, how is it compaed to welding?

[Mooch]

I have one in the back of my camp i use for pushing snow in so much better condition then that one .

They were all rust buckets . I wouldn't even think of doing mine or that mess . Mine has power windows lol . Good lord you guys have balls .

Mooch ..god bless you guys

[wisconsinjimmy]

Well when you live up in rust country you have to take what you can get, the price was right on the whole package, frame is in excellent shape and all of the tin is still cheaper than buying one out of the SW or a fiberglass tub. Once we started to put it together it really is not that bad of a job just time consuming and a lot of ruler work. Seems there is not much help on the internet as most start out with a fairly clean body and the places that sell the tin have no idea how it goes together and there is no measurments anywhere to be found good thing we took measurments and photos also found a few of these hulks in a salvage yard about 40 miles from home so we took a ride yesterday to take more photos and get more measurment.
Thanks for the prayer Mooch.
JimG

[Mooch]

Thanks for the prayer Mooch.
JimG

You're welcome Jim .

I wasn't knocking you man . I'm really impressed how some of you can return a rust bucket back to looking like new . I never had enought talent to do it . Jersey is real bad for rust also . I was going to rebuild my F350 front axle "bad rust " but after pricing out all i needed ,it came to well over 2 grand and a ton of work . So i found a low mileage one "76,000" Looks great and balljoints are all good for $900 delivered .

keep the pictures coming .

Mooch

[easymoney]

here is a sample of what can still be found in the south. belongs to a friend of mine. he says if it does not sell soon he is going to take it to the crusher. seems a pity tho. http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/2594413941.html

[another2centsworth]

easy they are crushing that stuff here every day plus boo koos of old vintage cars.

[easymoney]

yes scrap prices are so high that good running cars are being driven to the crusher. used to be you could buy a good running car for 4-5 hundred dollars. not any more.

[wisconsinjimmy]

Have a few more photos but it would take forever to post so here is a link to the album http://rides.webshots.com/album/580701611MdABAN
I have a question, Ford uses that stick on decal for the VIN is there a way to remove it and place it on the new post I am reluctant to mess with it or I could cut it out and tack it to the firewall>

[Len]

Have a few more photos but it would take forever to post so here is a link to the album http://rides.webshots.com/album/580701611MdABAN
I have a question, Ford uses that stick on decal for the VIN is there a way to remove it and place it on the new post I am reluctant to mess with it or I could cut it out and tack it to the firewall>

I did a replacement sticker inside an old Lincoln. I knew it would be destroyed when I tried to remove it so I took a high resolution digital picture, printed it then stuck in on the restored part using magnetic material. You could have it printed on vinyl at your local sign shop then stick it on the same way you would put on any vinyl sticker.

[wisconsinjimmy]

This is a challenge and what is worse is there are no known measurements other then one from a parts catalog and it does not give much of anything. I bought one of those Osborne Manuals for the Bronco but it focuses on the seat and top nothing on the fitment so off to the salvage yard and took some measurements off what was left there, mainly I got the height of the windshield from the top of the frame to the top of the floor tunnel these things were meant to rust. Another thing I found is that all of these parts places that sell parts or sheet metal have no idea of the fitment they just sell the parts no knowledge. I did take photos of what was left of ours and also kept every piece no matter how small and did my best to try and keep the basic structure of how the original parts fit, trying to finesse rust with the torch is a real treat. Well I was having a problem getting the floor pieces to line up and had to drill every rivet back out. I started on the drivers side and installed the inner rocker panel and fastened this to the floor board, next I hung the A-Pillar and loosely screwed it in place as I was going to have to move this when I put the outer rocker on. So the outer rocker has to fit inside at the bottom of the A-Pillar as there is a flange that it some what snaps into but the rocker is actually two pieces welded together and the inside seam had not been trimmed and after a few words and a sore neck I had to cut the flange back which allowed the pillar to close the gap on the rocker. Then I noticed that the pillar seemed to be out just a smidgen due to the cowl and this is when I saw a slight cut in the cowl where the pillar fit into and pop it starting to look right. I then riveted the inner rocker upper lip to the floor board and seat board, I have not put in the middle body cross member as it makes the floor twist in such away that there is a large gap when installing the outer rocker. I fastened the inner to the floor and then put the outer rocker on and riveted this to the inner panel, perfect lined right up. Next was the latch pillar which did not drop into the outer had to do some serious cutting and grinding on the rocker to get it in position, just enough gap so the 1/4 panel will fill it nicely. and here is two pictures of the test door fits like factory. Next will be installing the cross member and aligning the rear bed to the front floor, also have the two rear corners installed. This is an experience and I think I will be done with automobile stuff after this and go back to wood working. All comments are welcome.
JimG


http://inlinethumb30.webshots.com/48349/2644768210102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2644768210102250713WoDtQi)
http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/47960/2544941060102250713S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2544941060102250713MrlVfY)

[techdog1]

they seem to be the hardest to restore but once done you can restore anything