1945 Hudson

[tech69]

Amazingly this thing is in good shape. It came back from the blasters and I've put in 4 days on rust work. Everything has to be hand fabricated and I've cut away from the rust holes but even in some of the areas with pitting this metal takes a real good welding. I can see the difference between that old metal to 60-70's sheet metal. Then again it could be the .030 wire. I'm used to .023 and am sort of conflicted now on wire size but that's another story.

Anyhow, here's some pics. I still got the edge of the rear floor pan and then I weld in the rear panel. Then it's metal work and then onto filler. Parts are getting chromed and this will be a frame off. Boss is looking for a rottiserie as we speak.

btw, if there's anything you see that I can improve upon please let me know.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040884.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040894.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040893.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040901.jpg

[tech69]

Seems like open butt welds go well when it's on top of an angle. Seems to handle heat
better and inaccuracies in cut.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040902.jpg

when we get this thing on the rottisserie I'll have to re drill holes into the overlapping panels, cutt down some bolts, and weld them in so it looks factory. I just plug welded cause I'm not relying on the bolts for strength. I also have a concern about the original body mounted area bent down and closer to steel. The replicated part doesn't have that and I'm no pro fab man. Might have to figure something out for that like an extra bushing or something. I dunno.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040903-2.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040906.jpg

[tech69]

I decided to flange it so I can give it strength and so I can keep the rounded edge look. Looks junky but isn't very important and I don't have tons of experience doing this sort of stuff.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040882.jpg

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040907.jpg

Funny... I actually attempted this with one piece with the structural support on top still over it. After wrestling with it for a while I broke down and patched in two panels up front and then slid in the back part. It's flanged right along the rail and tucks under, and putting in the two front patches made the back one a sinch. Up to this point this has been the most stressful one.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040912.jpg

[tech69]

I thought I'd need a shrinker for this but I just did it in sections and it came out better than expected. I once again used the technique of going to the edge, which helps with heat in my opinion.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040917.jpg

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040921.jpg

Tomorrow I do the rear edge of the floor pan and fabricate that weird cover plate and then put it back together and hope for the best. Boss will be happy if I can get the rust done in a week while still baby sitting the training facility kids.

[tech69]

today I grinded my welds down on the back panel and was shocked to see my welds are finally coming together but I think the liner is giving me issues. I'm getting great penetration on settings d-45-47ish on a 120 w/ .030 wire. Now I can grind my welds down and make them disappear. Excited about that. I think I can actually primer this thing without any filler but probably not.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040939.jpg
These little buggers were a pain to fabricate!
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040935.jpg

I ended the day by fabricating these little supports. Wish I had one of those shrinker tools for this! So tomorrow I fit the rear panel in, throw on the decklid, and weld it in. There's also some other stuff here and there and that rear corner but that's an easy one.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040943.jpg

[tech69]

today I took it easy cause I knew it was the tedious part and parts that would be seen. So I welded here and there plotted an attack and inched my way closer. Very close to welding it in and I can't wait til it's done. This car is by far my best rust work and I sort of stumbled upon a couple things that change everything from approach to outcome. Only the third car I've done rust repairs to, which tells me anyone can do it. This to me is a great getaway from bodywork and sanding.

I was mainly concerned with getting it looking the same as it was and the same on both sides or close.

This tiny piece was torn away originally but fit so well and I needed that edge out more so I welded it in.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040947.jpg

how and the hell am I supposed to fabricate that?

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040946.jpg
a sharpie, a vise, visegrips, and a hammer.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040952.jpg

No... I didn't hack it out and cause that. Just a bunch of tedious work to do for this area to look right.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040945.jpg

[tech69]

Not sure how big the gap is supposed to be in the area I messed with and to be honest it was near impossible to tell. I'm assuming it was smaller but with seam sealer on both sides I'm thinking will be ok. A little big but being there's a gap right under that will get sealed and connects to that I think it won't catch an eye. In the end it will all be undetectable, or at least appears to be close enough.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040962.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040963.jpg

[pebbles]

I do not believe any American automobiles were made during World war II (1942 -1945).
There were 1941 models and 1946, 47 & 48 models that looked like the 41's.
1949 was the model change year. Maybe yours was an Armed Forces model.
Nice job by the way.
Happy Holidays to all
Pebbles

[tech69]

you're correct. I did a google search in hopes of getting a pic of the rear end in it's original condition and found out it's a 1946, or at least that's what it closely resembles.

[Roger J.]

Tech,, rather than spending the money on a shrinker right now,, you might want to google "tuck shrinking" and make your own tucking forks first. Also look for info on using hammer forms for bending flanges on curved pieces.

[tech69]

I'll do that, thanks.

Funny, cause doing this car sparked an interest in that dept. Today I walked along train tracks looking for a small piece of track. Instead I found some stakes. I also found wood and was thinking about hammer forms. I'm guessing the cheap way would be to learn to carve wood? I'm willing to do that. I guess I can make some bike tanks and call it a hobby.

[Roger J.]

A buddy of mine just gave me a 6 ft. piece of railroad track. Darn thing has got to weigh over 150 lbs.. One of these days I'll hunt down someone with torches to cut it up for me.

[Phil V]

you're correct. I did a google search in hopes of getting a pic of the rear end in it's original condition and found out it's a 1946, or at least that's what it closely resembles.


Actually he's not right. When I first saw in your title " 1945 Hudson" I thought the same thing that all the automotive plants were retooled for the war effort making airplanes, tanks, guns etc
and no cars were made in 1942 through 1945. BUT that is not the case. Hudson DID make automobiles for civilian consumption in the second half of 1945 (after WWII ended). So the point being that Hudson DID make 1945 model year cars (in the second half of '45).

[Phil V]

A buddy of mine just gave me a 6 ft. piece of railroad track. Darn thing has got to weigh over 150 lbs.. One of these days I'll hunt down someone with torches to cut it up for me.

Roger, somewhere in the last many years I picked up a piece of railroad track about 10" long and I use that thing often as an anvil. Both ends were cut with a big chop saw so the ends are relatively flat. At this point I don't have a clue where or when I got it, all I know is it works great when I need to hammer flat or hammer bend something.

[Roger J.]

Yup,, I'm planning on having a couple different sized pieces chopped off it. We have a chop saw at work, but it's a regular sized one that I don't think could handle the job. I could probably cut it with my big ole 9" Makita grinder that I bought a while back, but with the amount of torque this sucker has,, if it hangs up when I'm cutting,, it'll probably dislocate my shoulder. :D

[pebbles]

Actually he's not right. When I first saw in your title " 1945 Hudson" I thought the same thing that all the automotive plants were retooled for the war effort making airplanes, tanks, guns etc
and no cars were made in 1942 through 1945. BUT that is not the case. Hudson DID make automobiles for civilian consumption in the second half of 1945 (after WWII ended). So the point being that Hudson DID make 1945 model year cars (in the second half of '45).
VE Day is May 8,1945-----VJ Day is Sept 2,1945 ( in the USA). That lets 3 months to retool and produce a car. In all my 72 years I have never seen a 1945 model civilian car.

[Len]

A buddy of mine just gave me a 6 ft. piece of railroad track. Darn thing has got to weigh over 150 lbs.. One of these days I'll hunt down someone with torches to cut it up for me.

What are you going to use it for an anvil?

[easymoney]

yes from what i have read hudson did make some cars in 1945. then in 1952 they won a lot of races with thier 6 cylinder cars running against the v8s of that year. i used to run 1/4 mile dirt tracks in southern middle tennessee in the early 60s. one night at one little track down near alabama the only car that could run close to me was a 6 cylinder hudson. i dont rember what kind of body the hudson was in. at that time we was running cars that was very light. they were almost as light as sprint cars.

[Roger J.]

What are you going to use it for an anvil?

Partly.. But I might also cut some shorter pieces to make into some homemade post dollies. Been having some fun beating on metal lately. :D

[tech69]

What are you going to use it for an anvil?


I saw some youtube footage where a guy had machined each side differently so he had a hammer form for different things and some curves. Seemed pretty awesome. It was like a 6 in one metal working device.

[tech69]

Partly.. But I might also cut some shorter pieces to make into some homemade post dollies. Been having some fun beating on metal lately. :D

I'm with you on that. It's a lot of fun but I don't think my wife or the neighbors like it too much. Hopefully by this weekend I'll have a tuck shrinking tool made and mess with that.

[Phil V]

VE Day is May 8,1945-----VJ Day is Sept 2,1945 ( in the USA). That lets 3 months to retool and produce a car. In all my 72 years I have never seen a 1945 model civilian car.

Technically the war with japan ended August 14th, 1945 with the signing of the armistice (the formal surrender was Sept. 2nd, 1945. The "formal" surrender was just that -- a formality.) The signing of the armistice is what legally ended WWII. The first postwar Hudson -- a Super Six; eight-cylinder production would be delayed until late in the model year -- left the line on August 30, 1945. These cars were little changed from their prewar "Symphonic" siblings. The model production for the year 1945 was 4,745 cars. The 1946 model year Hudson sold 91,626 cars and close to the same amount in 1947.

[another2centsworth]

Think I remember the history as having 3 headlights that moved with the steering.
Also first to have seat belts standard.

[pebbles]

Think I remember the history as having 3 headlights that moved with the steering.
Also first to have seat belts standard.


I believe that was the "Tucker" and only the center headlight moved

[Mooch]

I believe that was the "Tucker" and only the center headlight moved

You would be correct and it came out in 1948 .

Mooch

[tech69]

you old farts got great memory!

[tech69]

Put in another 4 hours on this. All the rust is done other than a few pinholes, clean up a few flanges, and clean up. A lot of this stuff with plug welds and mainly the cover will go "all natural" welds and all.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040976.jpg


btw, this had an inline 8! It's getting rebuilt.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040926.jpg

[tech69]

Did some metalworking today and tried out my new palm nailer w/ bits I made. It works really well to smooth out the metal. I finished it off with a round of the shrinking disk. Restoration bodywork makes sense now. I think guys smash it outward with a ball peen carelessly to stretch the entire dent then shrink it back down. This is a little different than what I can do or time allows. I generally just want to flatten it out a bit with the nailer and then suck it in with a shrinking disk, but not necessarily perfect it, but I think I can if I keep going. Just want mudwork to be easier, that's all.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050020.jpg

Got a real good feel for the roof and it's HUGE and it looks like somebody was walking across it.

I think I'm going to have to weld in some supports to keep certain areas where they need to be cause metalworking this gigantic roof perfectly with a shrinking disk Is NOT gonna happen. Right now I'm just fixing the dents and will fix more near the middle tomorrow in hopes the arch gets its strength back without shrinking or supports.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050023.jpg

[tech69]

This roof is now getting away from oil canning and now just flexible on certain areas. I've worked each side near the edge and now I'm just straightening what I find. Even the back area has heel marks from some one dancing on the roof, but the arch in that area won't affect the general flex so I can save those for later and just work em out a little. I probably will still weld in a couple supports for the roof being that we're gonna prime n block this multiple times, but I'll make that call later when it's determined it's still too loose. Still have some more dents to fix and shrink here and there.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050057.jpg

[Mooch]

Tech

Keep the pics coming ,i love that project , It's blue on my computer ?

Mooch

[another2centsworth]

Nice Project

[tech69]

Tech

Keep the pics coming ,i love that project , It's blue on my computer ?

Mooch

that must be our new retractable roof. Tarp stadium.

Everything is metal worked really well and the only thing left is this roof. This is a real challenge due to size, how reliant the panel is to the flex, and your limitations of attack. I guess I had a pretty decent plan going. I'd hammer a spot lightly while the grunt would look in the general area and then see where it's flexing most, than places the shot bag there while I hammer. Seems like it worked ok but I'll need a lot more of that and hopefully the shrinking disk will take care of the rest.

[tech69]

I think this is the color we're going with.
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4049/4650241049_5d5739e324.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.flickr.com/photos/paddyspig/4650241049/&usg=__Vj4XyErVhDb47ctW7vI2Xy2zWZs=&h=313&w=500&sz=174&hl=en&start=113&zoom=1&tbnid=34llQsOxj8P3uM:&tbnh=155&tbnw=229&ei=hcNDTZrdD5D6sAP9nrGMCg&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1947%2Bhudson%2Bpics%26um%3D1%26hl%3D en%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DX%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26biw%3D1413%26bih%3D664%26tbs%3Disch: 10%2C33790%2C3379&um=1&itbs=1&iact=hc&vpx=1088&vpy=389&dur=1225&hovh=178&hovw=284&tx=148&ty=93&oei=MsNDTcKvEoSgsQPdwbSkCg&esq=3&page=7&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:16,s:113&biw=1413&bih=664

[Mooch]

I like that combo .

Mooch

[tech69]

real classy car for a dirt bag working on it. I'll leave my mark by putting boogers everywhere in it. :D

[Roger J.]

Tech, how are you doing with the shrinking disc?.. You getting the hang of it pretty quickly?.. I've only used mine a few times, and while it seemed to work miracles on a couple spots,, I just made matters worse on another spot.. I guess it just takes time to be able to read the metal right and shrink in the right spot.

[tech69]

yeah, it's tricky sometimes. It seems like if you're fixing an oil can with a stud gun you can directly at it but with a disk you have to fix what's causing the oil can, then tighten it up.

I've noticed on hoods and decklids Where you can't work the metal as good it won't work as well. I'm not sure if it's cause of that or the supports adhered to the hood but have a feeling that cause the supports push the metal up the disk will get it hotter and warp it. Can't say for sure though and will give it another attempt on a hood and decklid which does have supports and those issues but looks like those are always troubled areas. A quarter panel or any panel with access to both sides seem easier. One thing I do notice and like doing to pick up the pace is to sand the disk with 40 grit and always make sure a fresh scratch clean scratch is on the surface cause the dirt will keep it from getting hot.

[tech69]

The fun stuff was in the rust work and metal work. From last Thursday throughout this week is sanding, sanding, and more sanding. So far I have the rear deck lid, both front and rear fenders, and the hood in the first round of primer. ALOT of work. These panels are huge and there's a lot of compound curves The front of that hood was not easy to mud, and it needed a lot in those areas. The rear deck lid is like a turtle shell. It looks easy but it's not. You have to develop a technique with the right block or you're cutting something down!I by the end of next week this thing might be done with the filler, but that also means the grunt has to grind my welds UNDER the car and in the car and do some mudwork on both. The boss will break it to him. :D
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050130.jpg

[tech69]

The complete Chassis is almost rebuilt and the trim is still at the chromers. Today I knocked out the doors and got filler onto the lead seams going to the roof and some other minor stuff. So Monday I finish up the body minus the roof and then I do the final metal working on the roof. I did a little more metal working on it yesterday and I'm finally confident this will be a smooth time mudding. It's awesome how when you raise every big to tiny low the rigidity comes back.I can block on it without supports now, which is great! Btw, today the owner told me that the roof was messed up cause the previous owners hauled a bunch of crap on the roof on a move. :p

So monday I'll get a partner to help me fix the middle by holding a sand bag while I hammer and I'll get'er done! To do this metalwork I got a 2.5" plastic mallet at harbor freight and flattened the head a little bit and it's the best hammer I've ever had!

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050135.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050136.jpg

[tech69]

The mudding is done! I know of about four very small dings still left in some compound curves but a round of primer and skim coat will fix that.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050204.jpg

A lot of work went into that tiny little panel and the whole area. Glad it's done. Not perfect
but good.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050205.jpg

The real nightmare. Not only was there heel marks all over this roof, stretched areas, and dings everywhere there was high spots from the supports throughout the whole roof. Spending some good time to get it manageable for bodywork helped a lot. It wasn't too loose when blocking on it and should turn out fine.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050207.jpg

[tech69]

Had a look at the primer over the rust patches. I'm very disappointed at the job the helper did. The seam sealer looks like crap and a body line on the floor that I made perfectly with metal looks like a hot turd now. Don't even know why he even mudded on it. Likes ruining things? Kids.


I still don't get why he mudded that line. Why do it if it's straight metal? I think it's cause
he has no concept of filler work and just mudded the entire area and over the line. Hope he enjoys being laid off cause he deserved it.
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050250.jpg

Now look at that bodyline before he mudded it... not perfect but at least it's straight!

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1040912.jpg

Same kid seam sealed it

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050253.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050255.jpg

[Mooch]

Quit letting Mobilemike help you .

[tech69]

Quit letting Mobilemike help you .

I have a new helper. The relationship between me and the original was screwed at the start. He was there 6 months before I got there. When I got there the owner was actually starting to make money and my presence revealed his shortcomings. Slowly his role changed from "do it all ace" to taking orders from me. He didn't like it and I got tired of trying to correct him cause doing so put a sore on his butt and our relationship. Makes me wonder what the hell they're doing everyday for two years at wyo tech. To be at a training facility for two years and know that little is just beyond comprehension. Poor kid has to pay 20k now.

[tech69]

Didn't realize I left this post above til I cam to post this chassis pic. Funny, the new guy knows less but a better sprayer but is messing up the hudson. I give up caring about quality at this place. I'm just gonna worry about my quality. They can mess it up. I'll just say I didn't do it so I don't have to bad mouth anybody. caught this guy finger sanding, wetsanding with a softblock and no guidecoat, when I put guide coat on for him he kept sanding when it was gone. How do you not get that? Gave him some instruction and his block just kept going into conflicting directions. primered the hudson with primer the way he sprays clear....tack coat-medium coat...sanded like 1 coat. As soon as I saw all this I just stop caring. He's gonna have to pay me to manage if he wants me to get things in order.

Anyhow, I'll post more when it's done. Hopefully the roundness of the Hudson throws off the great "contribution" these mightily skilled workers left on it.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050637-1.jpg

[Len]

Didn't realize I left this post above til I cam to post this chassis pic. Funny, the new guy knows less but a better sprayer but is messing up the hudson. I give up caring about quality at this place. I'm just gonna worry about my quality. They can mess it up. I'll just say I didn't do it so I don't have to bad mouth anybody. caught this guy finger sanding, wetsanding with a softblock and no guidecoat, when I put guide coat on for him he kept sanding when it was gone. How do you not get that? Gave him some instruction and his block just kept going into conflicting directions. primered the hudson with primer the way he sprays clear....tack coat-medium coat...sanded like 1 coat. As soon as I saw all this I just stop caring. He's gonna have to pay me to manage if he wants me to get things in order.

Anyhow, I'll post more when it's done. Hopefully the roundness of the Hudson throws off the great "contribution" these mightily skilled workers left on it.


If the paint work sucks it won't matter how good the body work is, the job will suck. It's just like if the body work sucked it wouldn't matter how good the paint work is.

[tech69]

If the paint work sucks it won't matter how good the body work is, the job will suck. It's just like if the body work sucked it wouldn't matter how good the paint work is.

He does paint good. His blends look good. Very little peel. Just as good as most. Just can't do anything else but buff. I guess I shouldn't say he's not a good painter. He's a good unpolished painter that can't do anything else but buff. Hopefully he's not fooling us with a tack coat that's too light. I don't know cause I'm not keeping an eye on him. I'm just judging his finish.