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chopperroxie
11-18-2010, 08:44 PM
I finishing painting my Chevelle on Sunday. Had a few runs and alot of orange peel. I started color sanding yesterday with 1500 grit on a block. Didn't seem to be getting much of the orange peel sanded so I switched to 1000 wet. I noticed that it was getting flatter and more spread out but was still there. Is the recommendation to sand it perfectly flat or leave a little peel there. I plan on going at it with 1500 again and then 2000 before buffing. I'm going to try it again on Saturday, it will be a week after painting wihich will have hardened quite a bit by then.

This is my first time with all of this and I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. This will be a driver but want it to look good.

Thanks

Corey

Len
11-18-2010, 09:45 PM
I finishing painting my Chevelle on Sunday. Had a few runs and alot of orange peel. I started color sanding yesterday with 1500 grit on a block. Didn't seem to be getting much of the orange peel sanded so I switched to 1000 wet. I noticed that it was getting flatter and more spread out but was still there. Is the recommendation to sand it perfectly flat or leave a little peel there. I plan on going at it with 1500 again and then 2000 before buffing. I'm going to try it again on Saturday, it will be a week after painting wihich will have hardened quite a bit by then.

This is my first time with all of this and I just want to make sure I'm doing it right. This will be a driver but want it to look good.

Airvantage Palm Sander Link[/URL][/CENTER]
Thanks

Corey


Color or clear sanding to remove orange peel is about the most difficult part of any paint job. We switched to a palm sander for this purpose about 10 years ago and now it's a lot faster and easier. If you're going to do it by hand I'd say to start by doing a small section with 1000 then 1500 then 2000 but don't try to remove all of the peel unless you're looking for a "show car" finish. If you try to sand it perfectly smooth the chances are that you'll sand through your top coat and cause more severe problems than the peel. After you use the 2000 then polish it to see if the result is satisfactory then continue to the rest of the car.

If you want to achieve a nice flat finish with a lot less effort I'd recommend an AirVantage palm sander with a 3/32" throw and some 1500 and 3000 grit Trizact sandpaper used wet to level the paint then a Makita 9227CX3 or CX5 to polish it back to glossy. You'll look like a pro.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/avnon.jpg
Airvantage Palm Sander Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AVS61100S&Category_Code=T2)[/B]


1500 Trizact Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M2088&Category_Code=M3)



3000 Grit Trizact Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M2085&Category_Code=M3)



http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/makita9227cx3.jpg
Makita Sander/Polisher Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MAK9227CX3&Category_Code=T2)

chopperroxie
11-18-2010, 09:53 PM
Thanks Len, that's good to know about not removing all the peel. I want to do this by hand for my first time, the DA scares me. I have 4 coats of clear but still.

I just got the makita kit from you, it came with a foam pad and i ordered a quart of the sure finish polish. What are your recommendations for buffing, do I need other pads or will the one be alright? Is the sure finish enough for buff with before I go to the swirl remover.

Thanks much for your help

Corey

Len
11-18-2010, 10:24 PM
Thanks Len, that's good to know about not removing all the peel. I want to do this by hand for my first time, the DA scares me. I have 4 coats of clear but still.

I just got the makita kit from you, it came with a foam pad and i ordered a quart of the sure finish polish. What are your recommendations for buffing, do I need other pads or will the one be alright? Is the sure finish enough for buff with before I go to the swirl remover.

Thanks much for your help

Corey

We usually use the Orange (A) and Black (B) Sure Finish pads along with their 6" backing plate (G). The only thing we do after the SF is apply a coating of wax after the finish ages enough.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/sfstuff.jpg
Sure Finish Pad Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SFPADS&Category_Code=T2)

Henry
11-19-2010, 09:21 AM
Thanks Len, that's good to know about not removing all the peel. I want to do this by hand for my first time, the DA scares me. I have 4 coats of clear but still.

I just got the makita kit from you, it came with a foam pad and i ordered a quart of the sure finish polish. What are your recommendations for buffing, do I need other pads or will the one be alright? Is the sure finish enough for buff with before I go to the swirl remover.

Thanks much for your help

Corey

I wish you well since that's a nice car not to mention ALL the work it takes to get to this stage.

You can get into a lot of trouble wet sanding with a block as well. Listen for high pitch sqweaky sounds - that's a piece of sand under the paper.

Just wanted to mention that you should not be afraid of the Finish Film sanding with the (right) DA. Many years ago I bought a bunch of sheets from Len and it sat for over 6 months. I was NO WAY going to DA my fresh paint - just NO WAY.
Then I sprayed a couple old parts to practice the DA sanding on my clear. Let's just say I will most likely NEVER sand by hand again.

The right DA will have a 3/32 throw unlike a body filler work DA with a 3/8 throw.
You control your air pressure and get to the right speed for sanding the new paint. I use mine dry and really see how much orange peel is left, etc.

This machine method of sanding is one of the best things to come along in years. Henry

tech69
01-27-2011, 09:28 PM
Yes, da is much safer than hand sanding. You have to be mindful what your wet hand, block, paper, squeegy touches, where as that da with a soft pad will just coast over everything gingerly. Just keep it on low and it's a lot less easier. That particular da throw is perfect and won't pigtail like a 3/16 throw.

Dan C
02-06-2011, 02:19 PM
a random orbital buffer equipped with the soft pad and the trizact papers 1500 etc,can this be done:

Dan:privateeye:

Len
02-06-2011, 10:20 PM
a random orbital buffer equipped with the soft pad and the trizact papers 1500 etc,can this be done:

Dan:privateeye:

An orbital buffer my have too radical of a motion for sanding before polishing, it's best to have a 3/32" throw or at most a 3/16" throw. It's usually best to use a palm sander because there's less chance of it getting off center and cutting unevenly. Once you level your paint using a good sander and the right materials you'll never go back to hand sanding.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/avnon.jpg
3/32" AirVantage Sander Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AVS61100S&Category_Code=T2)



http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3m2088.jpg
1500 Grit Trizact Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M2088&Category_Code=M3)


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3m2085.jpg
3000 Grit Trizact Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M2085&Category_Code=M3)