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sixbangr
03-31-2010, 07:31 PM
I have always gone one direction. Does it matter, can I go in circles if I want? Will be using 1500, 2000, 2500, by hand.

Len
03-31-2010, 08:51 PM
I have always gone one direction. Does it matter, can I go in circles if I want? Will be using 1500, 2000, 2500, by hand.

I advise against sanding in circles when sanding by hand. I find that it can make the paper cut unevenly and it's difficult to keep a even pressure on the paper while sanding. In most cases we usually sand in one direction then the other... /////\\\\\

style
04-01-2010, 02:21 AM
you need to get roberts vid,well worth every penny and will answer more then all your questions..

personally i either use an airvantage with 1500 then 3k or by hand durablock on flat areas and soft block on other areas as len says ////// one time then switch hands and hit it the oposit\\\\\\ like xxxx pattern...

get roberts VIDEO!!!!

sparky65
04-01-2010, 05:49 PM
I was told to always sand in one direction with one grit then switch directions when changing grit since it makes it easier to tell when all the sanding marks are out. I was also told not to sand like you were leveling primer but in straight lines. Don't know if there is any truth to it since i am only doing one car but it seems to work.

88GT
04-01-2010, 06:26 PM
hmmmm. Is Roberts video usefull to a seasoned detailer?

Robert
04-01-2010, 07:14 PM
hmmmm. Is Roberts video usefull to a seasoned detailer?

If you buy it and don't think so, I'll give you your money back.

Robert

Len
04-01-2010, 07:55 PM
hmmmm. Is Roberts video usefull to a seasoned detailer?

Everyone develops ways of doing things and when you see a video of somebody else doing the work you can see how to improve your own methods. Like I tell people that purchase my video... If you learn one thing from all the things on the DVD it more than pays for the video. The same goes for Robert's detailing video, I watched it once and I immediately adopted several tricks that I use regularly in my shop.

LS6
04-02-2010, 12:16 AM
hmmmm. Is Roberts video usefull to a seasoned detailer?

GT,
Robert's DVD is easily the best one that I've seen and I have seen a few. It's definitely worth more than the asking price. You will learn some things from it, even if you are a seasoned detailer.
LS6 ;)

88GT
04-02-2010, 08:43 AM
thanks yall. I'll have to pick it up.

sixbangr
04-02-2010, 12:19 PM
one more? Do you attemp to get all the peel out with the heavy grit paper?

88GT
04-02-2010, 02:00 PM
one more? Do you attemp to get all the peel out with the heavy grit paper?

I do. I use the finer grit to remove the coarser scratches. Thats all

LS6
04-02-2010, 04:31 PM
one more? Do you attemp to get all the peel out with the heavy grit paper?

Sixbangr,
I don't believe it's necessary or even advisable to cut ALL of the peel out with the heaviest grit paper. You have to leave a little something for the follow up grits, in addition to the job of carving out the previous scratches caused by the heavier grit papers.

Below I copied a post ( by Dennis Schmidt ) from another thread that provides an excellent blueprint of the proper way to cut and buff.

Dennis goes on to explain that most of the work is done by the sanding stages. The buffing is the easiest part of the process. I think that this is proof of the fact that you don't need heavy duty compounds to complete the polishing stage, if the color sanding is done properly? The HEAVIEST compound that I ever use is 3M perfect-it-II , and most of the time Sure-Finish or Menzerna polish is more than up to the job. These two products are not aggressive at all. The key is the properly usage of the various pads in conjunction with either of these two mild polishes.

Below is the post by Dennis...............
[ Quote Dennis Schmidt ]
Dennis N. Schmidt

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Dennis N. Schmidt is offline Senior Member Dennis N. Schmidt is on a distinguished road

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Once again I stray off topic but this is important. Buffing should take a very short period of time. You should never have to buff long enough to cut through clear and base to bare metal.

If you're not progressing with buffing out the problem is:

1) You haven't sanded properly or long enough.
2) Your compound isn't cutting.
3) Your pad (which when you start the process should be wool) isn't agressive enough.

If you can't get a finished gloss on a 2 X 2 foot panel after 5 minutes something is wrong.

Here's how to do it right.

Start the color sand with P800 dry on a DA or P1000 wet by hand. This should remove most of the peel. Don't continue long enough to remove all of the peel just knock off the tops. You'll need that clear to remove the P800 scratches. THIS IS THE CRUCIAL FIRST STEP and sets the table for the rest of the process.

Switch over to P1200 dry on a random orbit or P1500 wet by hand. This you continue to use until the peel is gone.

Continue on with P1500 dry on a random orbit or P2000 wet by hand. The only purpose is to refine the previous scratch.

If you've got P3000 Trizact use it on a random orbit wet if not P2500 by hand. The paint should be getting pretty shinny by now.

Start your buffing with wool and an alumina based compound. Sure-Finish works well, others make suitable products as well. Do all cutting with this step. Almost all of the buffing time is consumed during this step. Any defects are removed during this step. If you see a defect during this step you SAND the defect out with P1200 followed by P2000 and buff off the resulting scratches NOT THE ACTUAL DEFECT. This is the biggest screw up most people make and where burn throughs happen when somebody thinks that they can buff out a defect. You sand out defects you buff out the fine sanding scratches left from the sandpaper which has removed the defect.

Remove the swirls with foam. This should be very, very fast. Less than a minute on a 2 X 2 foot area needed if you did everything else right.

EVERYBODY STARTS BUFFING TOO SOON WHEN THEY START OUT. Sand more, buff less.
[ End Quote Dennis Schmidt ]
LS6 :)