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divinity
03-08-2010, 11:44 AM
It was my first polishing experience. I used Makita buffer, w/ Orange Pad, and Sure Finish. Surface was done 1000gr, 2000gr, 3000 trizact. I polished and must have passed the area about 5 times, but it did not recover the 100% shine like before it was polished. When compared to unpolished spots it is less shiny.

How many passes is needed? I'm not going too fast, I ensured myself going slow, kept my pad wet and moist w/ water and Sure Polish.

Am I doing anything wrong?

Len
03-08-2010, 12:06 PM
It was my first polishing experience. I used Makita buffer, w/ Orange Pad, and Sure Finish. Surface was done 1000gr, 2000gr, 3000 trizact. I polished and must have passed the area about 5 times, but it did not recover the 100% shine like before it was polished. When compared to unpolished spots it is less shiny.

How many passes is needed? I'm not going too fast, I ensured myself going slow, kept my pad wet and moist w/ water and Sure Polish.

Am I doing anything wrong?

It depends on the amount of Sure Finish on the pad, the speed of the pad, the speed of your motion across the surface, the pressure on the pad and the amount of moisture (water) on the surface and on the pad. If you have enough SF on the pad it will usually take 3000 grit scratches out with only a couple of passes over the surface using a medium amount of pressure with a slowly rotating pad. Don't move the pad to fast over the surface, apply pressure and slow the rotation to about 600 RPM. Once the scratches are removed spray a little water on the paint and speed the rotation to about 2000 RPM and go over it again. Keep the pad and the surface damp, don't buff it dry, keep it damp and wipe the residue off to see your result.

LS6
03-09-2010, 08:30 AM
It was my first polishing experience. I used Makita buffer, w/ Orange Pad, and Sure Finish. Surface was done 1000gr, 2000gr, 3000 trizact. I polished and must have passed the area about 5 times, but it did not recover the 100% shine like before it was polished. When compared to unpolished spots it is less shiny.

How many passes is needed? I'm not going too fast, I ensured myself going slow, kept my pad wet and moist w/ water and Sure Polish.

Am I doing anything wrong?

Divinity,
You might want to start with a lambs wool or a sheepskin pad first using the sure-finish, then switch over to the orange foam pad using the sure-finish. This will help to carve out the deeper scratches that were put in by the 1000 grit paper. I pretty sure Len has these pads available. If not he can get them for you.

Maybe Robert will see this thread and can help?
LS6

divinity
03-09-2010, 10:23 AM
Ok, sounds good. I will try with the wool pad if it takes too long or doesn't get everything out from the orange pad.

Thanks.

LS6
03-09-2010, 11:38 AM
Ok, sounds good. I will try with the wool pad if it takes too long or doesn't get everything out from the orange pad.

Thanks.

Be careful, if you are using a twisted wool pad. It can easily burn the paint if you hit a corner or don't keep the buffer moving. The sheepskin and / or the lambs wool pads are much more forgiving, as they are not as aggressive as the twisted wool pad.

You'll find that the wool pad will cut away the deep scratches and then the orange foam pad should refine the surface and bring out the shine that you're looking for.
LS6

Robert
03-09-2010, 06:46 PM
It was my first polishing experience. I used Makita buffer, w/ Orange Pad, and Sure Finish. Surface was done 1000gr, 2000gr, 3000 trizact. I polished and must have passed the area about 5 times, but it did not recover the 100% shine like before it was polished. When compared to unpolished spots it is less shiny.

How many passes is needed? I'm not going too fast, I ensured myself going slow, kept my pad wet and moist w/ water and Sure Polish.

Am I doing anything wrong?

First, starting with 1000 then jumping to 2000 you very likely just buried your 1000 grit scratch but didn't remove it. You might need to go back and do a pass or two with 1500 then you can go to the 3000 and you'll probably have a better result.

Second, a twisted wool pad will cut faster and you can make it safer by spurring it very thoroughly, to the point it's very soft and fluffy, before you start using it. When you do, get it slightly wet. Did you see this? http://autobodystore.com/rsw.shtml

Anyway, read the link and see if that helps.

Good Luck,
Robert

Henry
03-10-2010, 09:57 AM
It was my first polishing experience. I used Makita buffer, w/ Orange Pad, and Sure Finish. Surface was done 1000gr, 2000gr, 3000 trizact. I polished and must have passed the area about 5 times, but it did not recover the 100% shine like before it was polished. When compared to unpolished spots it is less shiny.

How many passes is needed? I'm not going too fast, I ensured myself going slow, kept my pad wet and moist w/ water and Sure Polish.

Am I doing anything wrong?

It's not a number of passes, it's what you see as you work your areas. I usually still do 18" x 18". Work this area untill you get the desired result.

The texture you are sanding really determines what grit you should sand with and what pad you can 'get away with' as a start.

I suggest you use a good wool pad first. YOU MUST SEASON the wool pad as Robert has shown you in his post in this thread. This is so you don't just get the pad TOO hot and start to run dry and burn YOUR PAINT. Work you area until you see what you want to see with the buffer. Apply more Sure Finish as needed - but just enough.

A good thing also to do is wipe down your areas surface with a damp towel then dry with a microfiber towel. NO NEED to soak it wet, just a damp towel to get any residue off your viewing area. IF the area is still all dull and scratched you need NOT move on to the entire car but determine what is going wrong and correct it. This will make completing the entire painted surface a lot more easily to reach ultimate results.

Many people get overwhelmed and think of doing the ENTIRE vehicle. DO NOT think about the ENTIRE vehicle - just the area you are working and move on. Before you know it you will have the entire vehicle done and done to look great.

Sanding and Buffing is a big VARIABLE in itself because it depends on many things. You are on the RIGHT track with what you are using. You only need to adjust what you are doing.

I really wish some of you people lived next door so we could do this together. Keep us posted and OPEN THE LINK Robert supplied you with in this thread. Good luck and keep in mind HOW MUCH CLEAR YOU HAVE ON THIS VEHICLE as NOT to burn through. You will need to have at least 3 good coats. Henry

divinity
03-10-2010, 12:18 PM
after buffing and polishing with Sure Finish and the orange pad, 1 spent about an hour on a hood, going back and forth...

I had not notice much progress, there is still the dullness and not a deep clear Red that I see in certain spots. I realized I'm still seeing lots of scratches from my 1000grit hand sanding that the 1500 finishing film had not removed. In the area that the finishing film took everything off, it is nice, shiny, and deep Red.

Looks like I will have to go back to the 1500 finishing film on the AirVantage. Or can I just use the twisted wool pad to remove 1000 grit? (I have 2 coats of heavy spray of clear on the car)

Since the 1500 finishing film needed to be replaced so quickly, would it be a cost advantage to switch to Trizact 1500, probably 1 piece would handle the whole hood rather than about 5 finishing film?

I wished you were next door too, makes learning much quicker and better...

Len
03-10-2010, 01:49 PM
after buffing and polishing with Sure Finish and the orange pad, 1 spent about an hour on a hood, going back and forth...

I had not notice much progress, there is still the dullness and not a deep clear Red that I see in certain spots. I realized I'm still seeing lots of scratches from my 1000grit hand sanding that the 1500 finishing film had not removed. In the area that the finishing film took everything off, it is nice, shiny, and deep Red.

Looks like I will have to go back to the 1500 finishing film on the AirVantage. Or can I just use the twisted wool pad to remove 1000 grit? (I have 2 coats of heavy spray of clear on the car)

Since the 1500 finishing film needed to be replaced so quickly, would it be a cost advantage to switch to Trizact 1500, probably 1 piece would handle the whole hood rather than about 5 finishing film?

I wished you were next door too, makes learning much quicker and better...

Yes, the 1500 Trizact lasts a lot longer and would probably be better for your situation.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/3m2088.jpg
1500 Trizact Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M2088&Category_Code=M3)

Robert
03-10-2010, 10:52 PM
be sure to scrape the points off of it with a putty knife or something before you put it on the paint. Then follow up with 3000 trizact, again on the Airvantage, then buffing should be easy.

There's a number on the Sure Finish, call tech service.

Robert

divinity
03-15-2010, 01:57 PM
Worked much better with the twisted wool pad. Almost all scratches gone! I'll probably follow up with orange foam pad just to be sure nothing exists.