1965 Mustang

[tech69]

Doing some tradework for this and it's my first hotrod. Probably won't ever be worth much being it's an inline 6 but it will fun to tinker with anyways.

This is what it needs... Interior kit, dash pad, fuel sending unit to be connected, flywheel cover, new handles, weatherstrips, radio, air filter, exhaust, and paint. Some bodywork too. Looks like the rear quarter needs to meet tack n pull to fit with the end piece better cause now there's filler. Looks like I'll have to weld beads onto the rear decklid to get it to fit better with the panel behind the rear window and in front of the rear decklid. Oh, and the fun part... a broken bolt in the hood I have to drill out and retap. This car is in 2k and I'll block with 180 and fix some stuff and reprime.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030608-1.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030609.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030614.jpg

[tech69]

engine bay and passenger compartment

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030616.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030617.jpg

[turbocobra]

Looks some it's got a new full floor pan in it?

[tech69]

he cut out two patches and por 15'd the floor.

[tech69]

Curiosity got the best of me and I had to see what was under the left quarterpanel. It was hit and not properly repaired. Looks like I'll have to even plug weld it back to the taillight panel after smashing together the mating surfaces.

Here's what I saw when I stripped it...

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030623.jpg

Here's what I fixed... and I could get it better but didn't want to hammer after 6pm. The part that's torn on the upper corner I got to rest up against the rest of the metal so I can tack it back to normal.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030624.jpg


Here's the bulk of what's left on this quarter. Couldn't get a stud in there and it probably wouldn't help anyways so tomorrow I bring home my slidehammer with screw and drill a hole and pull and tackfill. When it's all said and done it will look factory like it never happened. I'll also seam seal the backside.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030626.jpg


I also drilled out the broken bolt that was in the hood. Just need to rethread it now.

After getting a good look at this car I'd say the only dents on it are the ones on the quarter. I can't find anything else looking on the backside so at least I know nothing's piled on.

[tech69]

I had some time to go out in the garage to further inspect the mustang and I could see the tailight panel was put in by a guy that didn't know how to weld. He tried plugging the taillight panel to the rear member and it was a mess so I'll at least drill out the boogers and clamp it flush and reweld along with realigning the latch brace which is way off.

Thinking about just replacing the whole panel but I'd have to get the panels sandwiched between the taillight panel and quarter too(R/L) cause he ran a continous weld on the meeting edges. Anyhow, if do take those pieces off wouldn't that provide a good opportunity to better align the quarter to decklid gap? If so, shouldn't I try to pull out that quarter outer sheet metal a little better before cutting them out?

[tech69]

brought my welder home to mess with the quarter for a bit
I think the fit will be near perfect once I grind down the welds. It got too late so I'll do that tomorrow. It looks like I need to reweld one more plate on there cause I didn't pull it enough cause I couldn't check fit on that particular plate while pulling due to clearance issues.

You could learn a lot about your welding by grinding on your welds.
Hot and fast is straight to the point and it's evident when you grind on it. No marks One and done :)

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030721.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030725.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030726.jpg

[tech69]

I absolutely love these things!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030717.jpg

[tech69]

this was mounted too far to the right and you can see I tried to adjust the latch to make up for it.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030731.jpg

This taillight panel was installed crooked and I'm concerned about bumper fit to the bodyline. Not sure whether to section and re weld in or just buy another panel. With the taillight panel off I'm thinking the quarter to rear deck lid gap may be adjusted a bit? If so that'd give me two reasons to do it.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030734.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030733.jpg

[Len]

Lookin good tech, I'd recommend that you eventually get yourself an acetylene torch setup to fasten those tabs for pulling. When you weld them you have a lot of work to move or remove them but when you braze you can just reheat it to melt the brass. Brazing for pulling and getting off stubborn nuts are about the only thing I use the torches for these days but when you need them they are worth their weight in gold.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/ast8080.jpg
LINK (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AST8080&Category_Code=BWELD)

[tech69]

hahahha, Yeah cutting them off is time consuming. I imagine when you melt it off the plate stays intact to cause different melting points. Yeah, that sounds like a must have.

[Len]

hahahha, Yeah cutting them off is time consuming. I imagine when you melt it off the plate stays intact to cause different melting points. Yeah, that sounds like a must have.

Yep, that's exactly right, the brass melt before the steel.

[tech69]

not bolted down yet and it's still pretty snug. The fit is 100% better than it was when I sanded out the filler.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030745.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030748.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030752.jpg

[tech69]

I found these....doh!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030756.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030757.jpg

[tech69]

easy fix. I used rust mort in the openings and I'll cut out a square in the outer wheelhouse that rusted, seal it, and weld in the pieces.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030760.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030762.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030759.jpg

Next weekend I'll do a little more welding to close up some holes that were drilled and also a little more metalwork. Soon as it's ready for filler I'll work on the backside of panels to clean them up with an acid and seal them. I'll also get the bumper so I can check the fit to see if it will look funky with a crooked taillight panel.

[tech69]

I can see clearly why guys just opt for new quarters and doors now. Once you start tinkering it's the little things that bother you. Anyhow...

I fixed the trunk gap and it was a fun experience and got to use a porto power for the first time which was cool. In the process the back of the quarter was raised a bit and wouldn't fit the end cap so I had to chop it down to fit.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030767.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030770.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030775.jpg

[tech69]

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030773.jpg

Was thinking about getting a lower half of a skin. The bottom front has a patch and it's brittle
and just gross. The skin would also take care of all those machine gun holes all across the door. Just not sure I want to do that with the driver's door that's always gonna be slammed. Maybe I'll go full skin but am afraid of messing up my gap.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030776.jpg

[tech69]

This stuff is disgusting! I held off on the rockguard deadener cause I was using a die grinder with a wire wheel on it. I tried for two minutes and moved on. When I had a moment I realized the 3m rubber wheel extension worked perfectly with my wirewheel on my rubber wheel tool. It works sooo good! I'm impressed, but that wasn't enough for the dirty task. I also went to harbor freight and got me a $5 wire wheel for my buffer/4.5 angle grinder and put it on the angle grinder. Man....that thing is a beast! Once you turn it on hold on tight and move your face. I must have had the rear wheel wells done in roughly 30 minutes!!! I never thought it'd be that fast. The cowl was a different story. The wire wheel just seemed to smear the crap around even with heat so what I figured out was that heat and a scraper worked fine. I used a mini torch and scraped away small areas. Got almost the whole right side done in a few hours.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030789.jpg

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030791.jpg

[Primal]

Removing tar/rockguard /old paint/seam sealer fastest easiest method is to heat up with a torch or heatgun and with hand wire brush just brush it off doesnt scratch up metal.


Grind wire wheels get braided ones they are more expensive but last alot longer.

Ill warn you though seam sealer is horrible for stink either wire wheeling or torching.

nice job on quarter push i like to go out a touch more than nessary because after a few days the metal likes to move again. Something i find handy after a push or pull on a body is to stick car out in sunlight on a hot day for a couple hrs if any metal is gonna move it will in that time.

[tech69]

awesome tip, thanks!

[Roger J.]

The braided wire ones also don't seem to randomly throw wires at you like little acupuncture needles. I've got those darn things stuck in my cheek, and one even went through the crotch of my jeans. 8o. I felt like saying a little prayer before pulling that one out!.

[Len]

The best tool I've used to remove seam sealer and undercoat is The Stripper but of course you've got to have a job that justifies buying the tool.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/dfxdf701.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DFXDX701&Category_Code=5BSH)

We just stripped all of the thick undercoat and seam sealer off a Porsche and The Stripper was worth every cent we paid for it.

[tech69]

My rubber wheel works fine and the braided wire wheel on it is a good one. I haven't used the rubber wheel since working production being an R&I guy so when I use my rubber wheel as a wire wheel I'm getting more value out of my tool. If it's not enough I crank up my 4.5" grinder with a HF braided wire and hang on. I'm pretty happy about that. For that kind of money I can think of many other tools that would suit me well. Thanks anyways. Maybe later I'll invest in one.

[tech69]

The best tool I've used to remove seam sealer and undercoat is The Stripper but of course you've got to have a job that justifies buying the tool.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/dfxdf701.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DFXDX701&Category_Code=5BSH)

We just stripped all of the thick undercoat and seam sealer off a Porsche and The Stripper was worth every cent we paid for it.
for a job that big I understand where you are coming from.

[Iceman]

The best tool I've used to remove seam sealer and undercoat is The Stripper but of course you've got to have a job that justifies buying the tool.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/dfxdf701.jpg
Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DFXDX701&Category_Code=5BSH)

We just stripped all of the thick undercoat and seam sealer off a Porsche and The Stripper was worth every cent we paid for it.

You really use that with out gloves? How much air does it use?

[tech69]

Rust can be right in front of your face and you won't even know it. Seems to be more often than not repairs I come across that has evidence of human tinkering it is usually 95 % crappier than the work that I like to do so it's probably worth investigating.I noticed an old sealer over the trunk area and pitted a little bit and after further review found holes all across the floor of the trunk. I feel the fix I decided on will be very good though. If you're wondering why I didn't just flange the replacement piece only is because from underneith it will look like a patch. It just looks more normal I think the way I'm going to do it, and the edge leading to the gas tank on the replacement will be flanged and tucked under. I feel this is the easiest and most efficient way of doing this. I just have to find a sheetmetal place that sells bigger sheets than what they do at ace hardware, but I can probably get the exact gauge now so that's good.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030793.jpg

and I'll also take care of this small area
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030800.jpg

[tech69]

found this when I was cleaning the wheel wells.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030799.jpg

This kind of worked out well seeing this cause it's two birds with one stone. I canTake this off and bang out the inner wheel house. I cut into it a little bit and curled it up to get a peek to see how much I should take off for the wheelhouse repair, in which I'll probably just lap it on there and tack it in after cutting it out and cleaning it up. Don't want to slave over a tiny piece no one will ever see by butt matching. I got pride but I like my welder when it makes me money and it only has so many good welds in it.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030797.jpg

[tech69]

rusted and weak.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030800.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030808-1.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030813.jpg

[tech69]

backside
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030817.jpg

small patch
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030819.jpg

[tech69]

Glad I fixed the wheel house this weekend.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030799.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030824.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030847.jpg

[tech69]

I should probably be using a quarter patch but oh well.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030828.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030831.jpg

[tech69]

I should have probably gotten a panel patch but oh well.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030828.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030831.jpg

[e-tek]

I haven't posted on this forum for awhile - but I saw this and had to say: what the *** is going on here? Is this a patch you added to this inner panel (I assume not), or are you about to cut the whole area out (I assume so!)...

[tech69]

not sure what you're asking here?

[tech69]

Got the whole bottom degreased and stripped part of it already. Firewall is read for stipping, fenders are stripped, cut out some rust in floor pan, painted the backsides of R door(L door gets skin) and quarter glass areas. I also took apart n cleaned the seat tracks and regreased them. Also reconditioned all regulators latches, new rollers, etc..
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030910.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030927.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030931.jpg

[tech69]

looks good in there. I'll also go back over some areas by brush
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030952.jpg

backside of quarter
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030961.jpg

Yikes! I think it will be easier to do this in two pieces like how it's supposed to be before the bad repair that connected both sides as one with no flange . Right now I'm deciding where to flange it and how I want to tackle this . Looks like a nightmare
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030938.jpg

[tech69]

This guy forgot some rust which are now small holes and it wasn't a very good patch anyways.
Looks like the underside of a table at denny's with all those boogers.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040018.jpg
Needed some sheet metal...hehehehe
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040016.jpg
probably shouldn't be welding two days after a doctor plucked metal out of my eye but
I closed it.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030984.jpg

[tech69]

I'm gonna have a look at some pics of a factory mustang cause I want to make it look
factory. I'm assuming the next piece is plug weld on top but not flanged. Couldn't tell
cause both sides were cut out.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1030997.jpg
needs a few plugwelds and welds at the seam. then grind and skim with kitty hair. It will be see thru thin.
the edge parallel to the transmission tunnel was flanged and I did that cause it's on the other side of the frame rail which hides it and it gives you wiggle room. Might just slice it off and do it completely factory
with a butt weld all around. For the next piece I will need to buy a vise to make a flange..... but still got some fender!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040013.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040019.jpg

One thing I notice is that when you get a good butt match sometimes the panel edges ram into eachother when you're not worried about getting it a little hotter than usual. I'll start to give it some hammer on dolly blows for now on. Came out exceptionally good though but that's my lesson on that one.

[tech69]

I had a couple hours today so I cut the hole a little bigger on the side that's flanged to the left so the cut would be staggered from the cowl to floorpan patch cut line. This patch fit well but the sheet metal is stretched cause it's sheet metal from a fender and in the area to the left it had a nice curve. There's plenty of places where it gets plugged welded down in that area so it's when it's done it will shrink back, be strong, but be a little wavy but nothing unusual. It will look factory from both sides and the flanges will be well be hidden.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040043.jpg

[Roger J.]

Tech, I really like following the work that you're doing,, but I have a hard time making out the pictures you've been posting lately. You might want to mess around with the brightness and contrast in your image editing software.. Here's the same picture after a little tweaking. The problem could be with my monitor though,, in which case,, nevermind..:D

http://www.econovans.com/P1040043.jpg

[tech69]

Dark is good when displaying ugly stuff like this. :)

[tech69]

grinded down the first pass of welds. Will probably make another pass or just tack here and there. I DO NOT want to do the other side. These are a pain!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040092.jpg

[tech69]

got a fender for the trunk area. hehehehe
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040053.jpg

hey, at least it's got rust protection!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040057.jpg

Notice the bodyline still visible in the upper left corner? I'll fix that. Good practice this way I think. Next car I won't be cutting out metal from other parts. Anyhow, this one fit like a charm.It's gonna work out a lot better than the front floor...and easier too!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040089.jpg

[tech69]

had some time and welded it in. Didn't come out as good as I wanted cause I tacked it down all over and ran out of gas and continued and then after I got gas I welded hot for 1" segments and the solo tacks kind of interfered with the smoothness of it but I'm really excited about what I learned in doing various things. A couple boogers here and there but sure beats two passes doing indvidual tacks and using just a die grinder. man, what was I thinking? :0

When I have some time I'll finish wire wheeling all the seams and paint rustoleum on just the seams and then after that tape and seal to prepare to paint the underside inside the fender and wheelwells. everything goes gloss except the wheel wells. I'll use a brush but use a gun for the floor and behind the quarters. After that would be a door skin and taillight panel and it's ready for filler!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040104.jpg

[SamG]

You mentioned a couple posts ago that you need to buy a vise to make a flange. If you have a good heavy table, a couple of c clamps, and a 2x4 you can make all the flanges you want. Clamp the metal between the table and the 2x4 with your desired flange hanging off the edge, use your body hammer to roll the flange down...in a fashion similar to replacing a door skin. I've had to do that plenty of times. I don't fab enough sheetmetal to justify buying a bending brake.

Duckbill type vise-grips work on smaller pieces too.
http://www.gradeatools.com/v/vspfiles/photos/VSG-8R-2T.jpg

[tech69]

Trunk drop off patch
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040107.jpg

I tried to get this panel from the mustang store but the stamping looked way off and it's just a butt match cause I didn't want to take the trunk apart. Looks pretty good just gotta do some trimming and then trim off the edges. Should be a good fit, or at least better than the one I saw on youtube of the same repair. I'll take some pics when I get it tacked on.

[Primal]

You mentioned a couple posts ago that you need to buy a vise to make a flange. If you have a good heavy table, a couple of c clamps, and a 2x4 you can make all the flanges you want. Clamp the metal between the table and the 2x4 with your desired flange hanging off the edge, use your body hammer to roll the flange down...in a fashion similar to replacing a door skin. I've had to do that plenty of times. I don't fab enough sheetmetal to justify buying a bending brake.

Duckbill type vise-grips work on smaller pieces too.
http://www.gradeatools.com/v/vspfiles/photos/VSG-8R-2T.jpg

4 foot brakes are $300 new.

[tech69]

welding down there is a bear. Couldn't get any light to hit it right, the leaf springs were in the way and the trunk was in the way and was bothersome with my helmet. Tried to tack hott but the angle my head was at I couldn't tell where I was welding so I just tacked individually and even that was annoying.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040110.jpg

I see why a click knob for voltage isn't that good. If I turn it up it will burn thru.
The only thing I can do is turn down the wirespeed. I should have turned it down a notch
but just rolled with it. Some of the welds were high just cause it was very uncomfortable welding
down there.

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040112.jpg

I probably should have hammered and dollied while hot but I wasn't so concerned. I'll do that tomorrow to stretch it a bit and get started on wheeling the flanges and painting the flange area. They're all almost ready but I'll go over it.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040114.jpg

[tech69]

threw a little skim coat on it and put some rustoleum into the gun. I noticed spraying it out of the gun it ran a little so next time I'll use my other gun with a 1.4. There's some sand scratches but I thought I was gonna brush it on and knew I'd go over it again anyways so when it's all said and done when everything gets the gloss black it will look better and even be seam sealed. Pretty happy about it though and it's undetectable and the trunk just looks a little imperfect but that's cause I welded hott. Next time for sure I'll hammer and dolly while it's hot.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/TrunkDropOff.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040163RAW.jpg

[tech69]

got the passenger floor done. The bottom piece is a little wavy cause it was from a fender and so when I flattened it out it was stretched everywhere and I just shrunk to get it stifff not for looks. Turned out pretty good and looks factory. In the engine tunnel is the only area you can tell it's been repaired due to the flange.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040171-1.jpg

Still gonna spray again after I seam seal. just wanted to see what it'd look like and cover the filler.
Stuff doesn't cover anything so I'll prep it a little better. Good lesson though cause I plan
on spraying nearly everything inside of the car.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/pp341/sanchtech/P1040183.jpg

[SamG]

4 foot brakes are $300 new.

Maybe what I should say then, is that I don't want to spend any money for something that is just going to take up room in my shop...I'm running out of space as it is...
http://webpages.charter.net/sgilliam8850/Shop%20Page_files/image001.jpg

Left to right:
Early 65 T code coupe with Dagenham transmission on the rotisserie,
65 T code fastback w/6cyl/auto,
65 fastback A code/4speed,
64.5 F code convertible 260 2v/3spd on the frame rack,
65 C code coupe 289/auto,
87 LX 5.0/5spd convertible (project i lost interest in) behind the blue hood,

and just added (not pictured):

D code 289 4V/auto/PS/PT 64.5 convertible
AND a new Kubota ZD326 mower to go along with my other mower and my tractor (until I get another storage building built in the next few weeks)

I've got it packed pretty tight

[tech69]

Maybe what I should say then, is that I don't want to spend any money for something that is just going to take up room in my shop...I'm running out of space as it is...
http://webpages.charter.net/sgilliam8850/Shop%20Page_files/image001.jpg

Left to right:
Early 65 T code coupe with Dagenham transmission on the rotisserie,
65 T code fastback w/6cyl/auto,
65 fastback A code/4speed,
64.5 F code convertible 260 2v/3spd on the frame rack,
65 C code coupe 289/auto,
87 LX 5.0/5spd convertible (project i lost interest in) behind the blue hood,

and just added (not pictured):

D code 289 4V/auto/PS/PT 64.5 convertible
AND a new Kubota ZD326 mower to go along with my other mower and my tractor (until I get another storage building built in the next few weeks)

I've got it packed pretty tight

nice. do you specialize in mustangs? of course you do but is that how you market? there's a couple shops that do that out here. man, you got your hands full but in a good way.

[SamG]

nice. do you specialize in mustangs? of course you do but is that how you market? there's a couple shops that do that out here. man, you got your hands full but in a good way.

Truth is, I just like Mustangs...always have. The shop is just a backyard shop. I don't do outside repairs at all. I'll rebuild a late model wreck occasionally for myself, and tinker on the cars when I have time.

65 T Dagenham coupe I bought in Huntsville, AL. Found it while chasing a part on Ebay
65 T code fastback w/6cyl/auto. Purchased locally from an elderly man who owned since late 60's
65 fastback A code/4speed. Purchased on Ebay, out of Memphis, TN
64.5 F code convertible 260 2v/3spd on the frame rack. Purchased out of Dallas, TX (virtually rust free)
65 C code coupe 289/auto, My high school car. Fairly rusty now.
87 LX 5.0/5spd convertible (project i lost interest in) I was on the home stretch with this one until someone broke in where I had it stored at the time and stole my Cervini RamAir hood, Light(roll)Bar, and rear spoiler along with some other high dollar pieces. I gave up. I'll use it for the drivetrain and sell the OEM 93 Cobra rear bumper and Cervini Stalker front bumper.

64.5 D code convertible. I actually don't own this car yet, but probably will. It's in my shop because the present owner (a good friend) wants to sell it to ME (it was his father's car). He's given me a price (which is too high) but says I don't have to pay him anytime in the foreseeable future. It looks like a barn-kept car but has presentable interior. It needs left side floor and torque box. Right side floor looks a little soft, but torque box looks OK. Rockers look to be OK. Cowl looks to be perfect. Trunk is fine. Left quarter is full of filler. He says it's where his dad scraped a tree that was beside the driveway...numerous times. That quarter is starting to rust in funny places under the filler. It has sat with the top down in storage for he last 15 years. He hauled it to my house, I had it running in about 20 minutes.

[tech69]

man, must be nice to have more than one fastback.

My plan is to sell my 65 when done and get one to fix up. still can't find an old granny that doesn't know the value of one. ahahaha. j/k. I wouldn't prey on them, but wouldn't fee obligated to tell someone what they're worth either.

[SamG]

There's a fastback located about 25 miles from my house I've been after for 20+ years. It's a hull, and has been sitting in the same spot as long as I can remember. One of those "no it's not for sale, I'm gonna restore it" cars. Last time I looked, it was still pretty solid, but now it's under a cover which is probably doom. Same guy has a wrecked Boss 302 hull buried in the bushes.

Just last week someone told me they knew where there was a 65 or 6 fastback that a tree had fallen on years ago. It's supposedly super-solid and needs a roof, but has been stripped of all it's parts. He's supposed to be getting me contact info on that car. Probably a wild goose chase, but if it pans out and I buy it, I'll post pics here.

SamG

[tech69]

Wish I had my mustang sold for this.

Not sure how close you are to Ca but check this out...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/1740098328.html

[SamG]

Thanks, but I'm in Alabama

I'll have to leave that one to Brian (martinSr)

[tech69]

he's in Ca. Doubt he has the money for that. :goof:

[cmayna]

Tech69,
With all that work you're doing to the Mustang, I hope you plan to upgrade to a 289 or 302, unless you are planning to do a original restore.

[tech69]

Tech69,
With all that work you're doing to the Mustang, I hope you plan to upgrade to a 289 or 302, unless you are planning to do a original restore.

well this is my first hot rod and other than doing 2-3 patches before this it's essentially my only experience in doing patches. I've learned a great deal by doing this and it builds confidence. I wouldn't have done it any other way. I'm doing the driver side to by the cowl but I'll actually use the appropriate sheet metal and new 18 gauge for that. I'm just waiting til the pink slip is in my hands to finish her off. Once I drive it around a bit and hopefully to hot August Nights I probably will throw a 302 in there. I'm already gonna swap out the suspension that can accommodate that. Already has power drum brakes so I can leave that if I wanted to and focus on the radiator, rear end, 5 lug, and tranny. I'm sure there's more to it then that but I'll save for it. For now I just want to get it done and cruise it around.

[SamG]

Not sure if you know it or not, but Mavericks and early to mid 70's Granadas make great donor vehicles for brake parts. Disc Brake spindles are a direct bolt-on. It takes re-routing a brake line or two if I remember correctly. Also seems like you have to use the Granada tie rod end. Wow, too long ago.

Dont remember for sure on the rear end width, but since a Lincoln Versailles (Granada's rich cousin) disc brake rear is the correct width for 65-66, I would think Granada would be too. Better do some research on that one.

Versailles front spindles will work too, but you have to either swap ball joints or sleeve the spindle. www.mustangsteve.com

For disc brake conversions, check discbrakeswap.com...all new parts based on Granada/Maverick spindles.

[tech69]

I heard about that. Might go to the yard for that. Thanks!

Looks like the Impala I'm doing work for to get the pink slip to this Mustang is FINALLY done!
I should have just painted it my damn self. Just got done today but I'm gonna flake on picking it up and will get it on Monday and assemble. I'll get my original black plates and pink slip, finally!

I'll get back on the Mustang and do the drivers side floor as I did the passenger side but this time I'll get brand new 18 gauge and learn from my mistakes. Seems like if you have to make an elbow flange and next to it your patch just butts to the rocker(in this case) there will be a gap in the edge that just butts up due to not using a brake. This time I'll leave that butted edge a little long and shave it off as I go. I had to weld in coat hanger on the other side but it worked out.

[tech69]

Here's the turd Impala I'm finishing up on for the Mustang. Got it all together with the exception of the rear mouldings and one in the front. Just waiting on clips. Also gonna have to buff some spots. The painter's helper like an idiot didn't line up the rear decklid and so luckily when we picked it up the owner opened up the trunk there and it chipped right in front of the the guy who painted it. Those are mistakes I just don't understand. The kid also peeled off paint unmasking but they'll honor it and I'll be buffing a few spots. I only buffed the sides above the bodyline. Such a turd this car is.

btw, thanks to Brian's panel alignment faqs I lined up the hood in like two seconds and felt like a pro. :) Rocked the hinges back and fixed the gap.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/DSC00188.jpg

[tech69]

I decided against getting a door skin and want to keep as much original sheet metal as possible on the drivers door and it had about 20 or so holes from a bodyman and still needed pulling so I pulled, welded in some pins in between the holes, did some metalwork, did some shrinking, and even fixed slices into door frame. Someone welded in a patch but cut an "L" shape straight thru the door frame so I had to fix that too. All this work and it will still get very thin filler. http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040322.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040270.jpg



Tonight I just finished the main metal work and a few small spots here and there.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040323.jpg

[tech69]

I previously cut off the tail light panel cause it was crooked and so that was a charm... the guy didn't know how to plug weld so welded the seems. Imagine how fun that was taking off!
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040319.jpg

Before I weld the tail panel I'd like to get a mock up on everything being The latch brace was crooked too and to just see how good I get the gaps. I also decided to check the fits of the end cap to decklid and endcap to quarter fit. The quarter that was smashed and the one I worked on was a good fit as I already kind of worked in tandem with the cap so it was a go. The other side didn't fit well. I used a die grinder, a file and made some bends and now it fits great!
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040328.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040327.jpg

[tech69]

just needs a little more work and it will be showcar perfect!
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040324.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040330.jpg

What I like about the overall gaps/fit is that it's telling me it's right by showing me where it's wrong, so that's telling me I didn't pull the left quarter enough and I need to twist the hood a little more. Twisting it a little more will perfectly line up the decklid to both endcaps and quarter tops so that's great news. Just gotta push on that quarter again with a porto power to fix the other issue. Had to twist, shim, bend, hammer, grind, file, cut, adjust, tack, just to get this fit, but It'll be near perfect with a few minor touches. I was happy to see that this will fit like a glove. I heard nightmares about getting these lined up.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040338.jpg

Just about ready for filler work after I weld in the tail light panel and metal work that will take two seconds. However, next day I'm on it I'm going to brush on zero rust along all the seams and the time after that I'll scuff it, tape, and seam seal, and then paint or spray zero rust over it. I'll post more pics when I'm done with the underside, wheel wells and ready for mud.

[tech69]

just got a scott drake master suspension kit w/ all the bushings to boot! Just need some shocks and tie rod ends and it will be all brand new down there. Started yesterday by taking off the arms one side as well as the sway bar and strut rods. Got the stuff painted and am waiting for two weeks for the shocks and tie rod ends and will put it back together. By that time I'll probably have the other side ready too.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040980.jpg

This spring compressor sucks!
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040981.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040986.jpg

[tech69]

all painted with zero rust
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040988.jpg
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1040995.jpg

[tech69]

. Welded a few holes shut, got the drivers side floor done, did some bodywork under the car, seam sealed, then painted zero rust under the car. I also have the tail light panel welded in. Next is putting the front R suspension back together and do the same with the left. Then it's taking out the windshields, bodywork the roof, hood, and decklid, prime, and block away.

open butt weld patch/ driver side floor

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050062.jpg


open butt weld patch/ driver side floor

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050074.jpg

Looking good!

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050081.jpg

Trunk floor repair

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050085.jpg

[tech69]

seam sealed ready for zero rust.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050064.jpg

[tech69]

sprayed a couple of things. Excuse the mess.
Even rust morted the nuts n bolts before zero rusting them
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050089.jpg

the suspension is on loosely but my spring compressor crapped out so I gotta wait til I decide on what to get so I'll put that on hold. Maybe tomorrow I'll get started on painting a few parts and some welding.
http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050127.jpg

[tech69]

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/sacsupreme/P1050129.jpg

Thought I wouldn't see this day for a while! Borrowed a spring compressor from work and it worked like a charm. I wanted to spray zero rust on the opposite fender aprons but they were out of zero rust at the paint store and I didn't want to use the last bit I currently have cause it's now spraying more duller and it won't match the other side. So tomorrow I seam seal and spray zero rust then friday I put on the left side suspension, and hopefully this weekend I get the floors and trunk area painted white...but that's just wishful thinking.

[tech69]

Did a little bit of everything today. Sanding, metal work, wire wheeling, degreasing, welding, mudding, scuffing, using a torch, rust morting, seam sealing, and finally spraying zero rust. Also had to get a wire wheel and seam sealer.:)

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050149.jpg
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050158.jpg

[tech69]

The rust patch is undetectable!
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050156.jpg

Tomorrow or Monday I'll get the suspension all together and torqued down. Next Friday
the fender splash shield rubber kit comes in so that area is squared away.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050151.jpg

[tech69]

while buttoning up the suspension I noticed two shock tower cap bolts kept spinning and the shoulder on the bolt was brand new looking so I put a little booger on it and it worked like a charm.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050162.jpg
http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/embsanch/P1050163.jpg