Seam Sealer questions

[68Jcode]

I've got some basic questions about seam sealer on my '68 Mustang:

1) I believe there are basically two types used on the car - brushed on type at actual seams (all around the cowl and firewall, probably lots of other placed I haven't found yet), and self-leveling at the drip rails - am I correct?

2) What is a good method for removing the seam sealer on the seams, and the self-leveling type at drip rails?

3) I believe factory sealer was applied direct to bare steel - what kind of pre treatment should be used when replacing it (bare steel, 80 grit scratch, some acid etch)?

4) What seam sealer brand / types would you recommend for a novice? I'm willing to go 2K assuming there are significant benefits, but I would rather not buy a special gun just to do one car. I think some of the Fusor and Evercoat products have caulk gun adapters?

Thanks in advance for the information.

[Len]

1) I believe there are basically two types used on the car - brushed on type at actual seams (all around the cowl and firewall, probably lots of other placed I haven't found yet), and self-leveling at the drip rails - am I correct?

For most work you are correct but there is also spray-on seam sealer that is being used quite a bit.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fus312.jpg


2) What is a good method for removing the seam sealer on the seams, and the self-leveling type at drip rails?

If it's a one time event then a rotary wire brush in a drill. However if you're going to remove a lot of it or also removing undercoating it pays to purchase a better tool

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/dfxdf701.jpg


3) I believe factory sealer was applied direct to bare steel - what kind of pre treatment should be used when replacing it (bare steel, 80 grit scratch, some acid etch)?

I usually like priming with epoxy primer first but most sealers can also be used over etch primer. Fusor has now come out with sealer that is designed specifically to go over bare metal.


4) What seam sealer brand / types would you recommend for a novice? I'm willing to go 2K assuming there are significant benefits, but I would rather not buy a special gun just to do one car. I think some of the Fusor and Evercoat products have caulk gun adapters?

I really like the one part Fusor seam sealer, it gets like hard rubber and adheres really well to anything it touches and hardens on. I like the Evercoat Self-Leveling because it can be used with a standard caulk gun even though it's a two part product.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fus802ez.jpg
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/fib824.jpg
Seam Sealer Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=JASS)

[68Jcode]

My seam sealer removal went pretty well, except the very outer edge of the drip rail (where the actual seam is) I can't get to it with the wire wheel, and if I pick at it with a small screwdriver or pick, it is still pretty difficult to get all of it out.

I'm thinking at this point, I'm best off leaving what is left in there - it seems to be holding pretty tenaciously, and it's going to be buried under epoxy and the new seam sealer.

I don't want to keep hacking at it because I could wind up creating a bunch of nooks and crannies that could be difficult to the the epoxy into, or to properly sand/scuff for adhesion.

Am I setting myself up for disaster leaving the last remains of the 40 year old sealer?

Thanks,

Andrew

[Len]

I think you're right, If it's attached pretty well then just epoxy prime, use a self-leveling seam sealer (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=E824&Category_Code=JASS) in the channel and paint it when you paint the car.