Started to block my primer.

[sparky65]

So after my car was sandblasted it wes epoxy primed. Then I did some body filler and epoxy primed the entire thing again as I was past the recoate window. Then I sprayed three coats of K38. I let it sit for two days and started bock sanding with 180grit paper. Well for the most part I blocked the high spots down to the epoxy but in a few small spots I went to bare metal. Do I hit these spots with epoxy before I recoate with probably two coats of K38 to be safe? The data sheet says K38 will work over properly cleaned and treated steal, but doesn't specify what treatment?

There also is a spot that I probably should have addressed with filler. I think I could probably get it with another 3 or 4 coats, but i think that is kind of thick. Do i have to sand the area down to epoxy or bare metal before applying any filler?

[tech69]

For your highs I'd take a dinging spoon and move it around slowly while tapping with a hammer. This is good so you don't hit it to hard and have to skim with filler. Check with your hand and repeat if needed. Just make sure it's not a stretch. For your area that needs filler I'd just sand the lows that were probably not sanded when blocking and apply it carefully by applying it thin and feathering your edges with your spreader. Then I'd block it down but by trying to keep the block only on the filler. When you need to attend to the edges and blend it I'll stretch my strokes for that plane so it doesn't effect it.

[Len]

If you sanded to the metal then it's the area AROUND the spot that is usually low. If the high spot doesn't need any more filler primer to make it right then an application of epoxy primer is all that is needed. However, if the high spot needs additional filling around it then I'd say go with the K38.

On the spot that needs more filling I'd recommend using a good liquid polyester putty like Easy Sand because it can be spread thin and smooth then it can be leveled shortly after it's applied THEN go over it with the K38.

Properly prepared metal for the K38 probably just means clean and scuffed with some 180.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Evercoat421.jpg
Easy Sand Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=E421&Category_Code=FM)

[tech69]

those highs could also mean he had his mud/primer hiding the crown he didn't work out. A good handfeel will tell him for sure

[Len]

those highs could also mean he had his mud/primer hiding the crown he didn't work out. A good handfeel will tell him for sure

After block sanding if you have metal showing it means that it's higher than the filler. Feel or no feel the metal is the high spot but feeling it may tell a more experienced person if it needs to be tapped down or not. It's usually better to depend on guide coat than feeling the panel especially if you're a novice.