Bit of an intro to me, and about my 56 ford pickup

[buzzy bee]

Hi

I am in Cheshire in the UK, and am restoring, or learning new things on my '56 Ford Pickup. It was designed before the war, so looks pre war in style.

I am an agricultural engineer, and do alot of mig welding, and related things, so fabrication isn't too much of a problem, also mechanical things are not that hard either. I can work most stuff out, I mean I bought this truck totally dismantled, and built it by myself. I ran it for a year, and took it back off the road last month to do some repairs that showed there face last year in testing, and to paint it.

I have never done any body work, and have been trying to start paint prep this weekend, all pannels are solid. I have welded a few patches/sections in and all is ok, they are prepped. I have taken them all back to metal and found that someone set a nice new section in, but it has warped when they welded it, sometime in the trucks history, I have been trying to fill it smooth today after tin bashing it as close as I can, but am struggling to get it straight if you see what I mean. I am filling against the bottom of the door which has a moulding, so can't cover that up.

Thiese are some of the loose pannels:

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285/buzzybee_bucket/DSCF1037.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285/buzzybee_bucket/DSCF1038.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285/buzzybee_bucket/DSCF1039.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285/buzzybee_bucket/DSCF1040.jpg


Now a little about me.

I am a 23 year old engineer in agricultural machinery. I do lots of fabrication, and also have many hobbies, one is old cars, I like old tractors, traction engines etc. Also old bicycles.

My oldest form of transport in my small but growing collection is C1879.

Right I look forward to some ideas on my painting problems!

Cheers

Dave

[buzzy bee]

Hi

This is what she looked like part way through stage one rebuild a couple of years ago:-

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q285/buzzybee_bucket/pickup1.jpg

Cheers

Dave

[Len]

Welcome aboard Dave
I don't know what kind of questions you have, it looks like you're doing ok from here. After you get the metal semi-straight you can use body filler to level the surfaces then apply a filler primer, block sand then paint. If there's any particular part of the project that has you stumped let us know and someone will probably have an answer for you.

Each step in the process is the prep for the next step and if each one is done properly the job will come out the way you want. There are a lot of variables with each step and especially when it comes to the painting so it may be to your benefit to pick up a copy of the DVD linked below.

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Thanks for the welcome, the main thing I joined this forum for is because it seemed to be quite active, re help on bodywork. This is the part I have no experience off, having a friend who used to locally have a body shop, he now works away, so can't give hime the work, thought I would have a go!

The one thing that is stumping me at the moment, is that the lower part of my door is all lumpy as the previous owner welded it too hot, and it warped, I have tried to straighten it as best I can, and have started to smooth with filler. It is a lot better than it was this time yesterday, but I can't get it straight/level, still all wavy!

Second thing anyone that can give a step by step guide to painting with 2K paint?

Cheers

Dave

[Bob K]

The two biggest mistakes that people make when leveling something like your door bottom is, using a sanding block that is to short, and using sand paper that is to fine. I would recommend a 12 inch or 18 inch board and use at least 80 grit sandpaper if you have knocked the filler flat with a surform file. If you didn’t start with a file then I like 36 grit for my first shaping. Once you get the shape right then go through the grits to get the filler smooth enough without changing its shape. If you hit metal when going through the grits then you should add a thin overall skim coat so that you don’t make low spots along side the metal you exposed.

To help further with leveling use dry guide coat, and change directions that you move the sanding board. For instance if you start at the bottom of the door with the board parallel to the floor then make five or six strokes lifting the board up and to the left, then five or six going up and to the right, keeping the board parallel to the floor all of the time. This will prevent the board from cutting a trough in the filler.

Bob K

[buzzy bee]

Hi

Thanks for the tips, exacttly what I was hoping for, got a reason why it wasn't working. My block is about 4 or 5" long and I am on much finer paper. I never used a surform or file either. I will get some coarser sandpaper on a new coat of filler, as I do have metal showing through!

Cheers, you hit the nail on the head so to speak!

Dave

[alaskajeff]

Welcome aboard. You have stumbled onto a wealth of knowledge and help with this website (not from me, but from the combined knowledge of a lot of veteran body & paint guys). That is a very cool project. Looks like you are well on your way already.:)

[RottenRodney]

High Dave! I'm Rotten! I'm brand new here -- stumbled in accidentally one night and I'm really glad I did.

I gotta say that your project facinates the poo outta me. Eye've never seen a '56 Ford pickup like that -- not even in England. Is it rare where you are too? Keep us pasted on your progress, okay? Take a lotta pitchers, okay?

This is one Eye'd like to watch...

RR