Starting some body work this spring

[gary8878]

Hello everyone, I have a 1987 Chevy silverado pickup which will be undergoing some bodywork and paint this spring. Basically, I have all the pieces I need. I bought a complete used rust free bed, oem doors and fenders, "supersize" cab corners, and a full rocker to replace my rusted left one.

I have no body work experience. My father is a good welder but he also is by no means a bodyman. Good thing is, he had a truck just like mine and I remember him welding in new cab corners/rockers so he does have experience with this atleast.

The good news is, there is not much "filler" or body work to do to this project. Everything is pretty much bolt on (fenders, doors, etc). Really, just the cab corners/rockers need filling and one of the doors I bought.

Speaking of this door. One of the doors that came in the package I bought, the entire lower skin is in filler. The guy I bought it from is a bodyman and said he reworked that lower half and that there is no rust. Problem is, I already notice a crack in the filler. What should I do here? Remove what he did, re-do it for myself? Whats the best way of removing the filler?

Also, the cab corners I received are supersize, they are huge. I don't think the existing cab corners need that much replacement. Do I use only what is needed or do I use the entire replacement?

I have been reading through this helpful site as well as others. Basically what I am learning is that the area to be filled should be grinded to bare metal, fiberglass filler is to be used on areas that were welded, not just regular filler, golf ball of filler to inch of hardener, sand in different directions starting with around 32 grit, then 80, then 150 featheredge with a da. I guess then use "glaze putty" to fill any pinholes and re-sand again with around 150-180.

Do I sound like I am on the right track? Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. My main concern is what is up with one of the doors I bought and why the filler is already cracked :mad:

[Len]

Speaking of this door. One of the doors that came in the package I bought, the entire lower skin is in filler. The guy I bought it from is a bodyman and said he reworked that lower half and that there is no rust. Problem is, I already notice a crack in the filler. What should I do here? Remove what he did, re-do it for myself? Whats the best way of removing the filler?


I would probably grind off the filler to analyze what was done wrong then correct it. Also check to see if you can see anything inside the door that could indicate problems.


Also, the cab corners I received are supersize, they are huge. I don't think the existing cab corners need that much replacement. Do I use only what is needed or do I use the entire replacement?

I rarely use an entire patch panel. I usually cut it so that my seam is above the moist area that can cause problems then I use the cut off material to create backing strips to lay the patch on top when I weld. You just want to make sure that you cut it nice and straight and remove any flashing that's created by cutting the backing strip eliminates the need to make the panel fit perfectly like most butt welding demands. I usually roughly figure where my patch can be cut then I cut it and hold it up to the vehicle and trace where he cut needs to be made.


I have been reading through this helpful site as well as others. Basically what I am learning is that the area to be filled should be grinded to bare metal, fiberglass filler is to be used on areas that were welded, not just regular filler, golf ball of filler to inch of hardener, sand in different directions starting with around 32 grit, then 80, then 150 featheredge with a da. I guess then use "glaze putty" to fill any pinholes and re-sand again with around 150-180.

Depending on the thickness of the filler that's applied I usually start by cheese grating the first application then block sanding it with 36 grit and apply my second coat. On the second coat I block sand with 36 then 80 and if it's my last coat I finish it with 180 before applying polyester putty, sanding with 180 then priming. Stay away from the old lacquer-type putty.

You should use a "guide coat" when block sanding your filler because it takes the guess work out of the leveling process. I usually recommend dry guide coat for this step in the operation.

The hardener to filler ratio isn't real critical. A good rule of thumb is to create a mound of filler of the size you need then put a line of hardener across the diameter of the mound. I like using a 2" flexible putty knife to fold the filler over itself and press it together then repeat this process until it's mixed well. Pin holds shouldn't be a problem unless you apply it improperly. Press the first pass into the surface texture then lay on additional layers until you get the thickness you want. If the weather is warm you'll need to move more quickly because the filler will get hard more quickly.


Cab Corner Replacement Link (http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13019)


Cheese Grater Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=STN21-161A&Category_Code=TFSL)


Dry Guide Coat Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=3M5861R&Category_Code=TFSL)


Filler Materials Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=FM)