68 chevy c10 p/u

[bunkystrimline]

ok, finally got this computer back up...damned microsoft!!! lol...

at any rate, here is the post i tried to make the other day...a 1968 Chevrolet C10 pickup...this is a project IN PROGRESS...hopefully i can keep this computer running again to keep things updated...

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/7.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/3.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/1.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/4.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/6.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/9-1-1.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/9-1.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/8.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/25.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/14.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/16.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/10.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/33.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/32.jpg

obviously, you can see that this truck still needs ALOT of work. problem that i have is that you can SEE (more so in person, but some can be seen in the pics...) where several so called body men have kind of 'hacked' the work. theres alot of man hours that were simply WASTED on this truck. im sure any of you that have actually worked or currently work in a body shop have met guys like this...they SAY they are body men...and most of them actually "believe" this...but when the work is all said and done (or rather, work like this is seen), the truth is, they simply should not be in a body shop. hopefully, within the next few weeks, a lot of the wrong can be corrected and i can post some new pics with any progress that we can get done...i realize there may be some criticism on this post...go ahead, most of what may be said about the job is most likely accurate...i will be the FIRST to tell you that i am no body man...i enjoy working in a body shop, but i would rather be painting...i am going to attempt to do some work on this truck, but i pretty much KNOW when its time to stop and get someone that i know can answer my question(s) accurately.

[turbocobra]

Aside from some surface rust, it appears to be in pretty good shape?

Project looks good, should turn out nice. Always been a fan of those trucks.

[cummins724]

Very nice. I love those trucks! I actually had a 72 chevy 1 ton dump truck, it was one of my first in my fleet for my excavating business. I didn't see the fuel tank? Is it behind the seat?

[bunkystrimline]

Well, i finally convinced the owner to let me more of less start this job over (obviously the old "hack" work put into it will be a loss to my father, but i can't convince myself to do any more work on it unless the entire job is done RIGHT).
From the lack of criticism to this post, im going to assume that the pics don't show enough of what i see in person.

Got a question (or maybe a few questions) for ya.
Well, i finally convinced the owner to take the cab off the frame and do this thing the RIGHT way...
MY upcoming job on this truck begins with the frame, and i can honestly say, i've never actually DONE a job like this by myself. Just to see what was actually under the rust, i took a roloc prep disc to a small area of the frame. Other then some rust pivets that i can't dig out, its really not in TOO bad shape. What i want to do is paint the frame, but im not sure if i should actually grind off ALL of the rust or just the LOOSE rust, and then follow that by a rust treatment (i have a few gallons of Mar-hyde One Step Rust Converter Primer Sealer at the shop already, but i dont know if its really as good as Picklex, Zero Rust, etc.). I'll post a pic tomorrow when im at the shop to show you WHAT i have in that small area so that maybe i can get a better suggestion, but if anyone knows of any good ideas, PLEASE let me know.

Now that i have an OK from the truck's owner, i want to do what ever i can to make this truck last as long as possible.

[another2centsworth]

Bead Blast that frame.

Then Epoxy and 2k Primer if the customer will drop the money.

5 Star makes a direct to metal primer.

It is an epoxy hybrid.

5 Star EXTREME Direct to Metal Primer.

Later, Tim

[bunkystrimline]

i do appreciate the suggestion, but i have TWO problems...i dont have a bead blaster, nor will i go outside of using the Matrix Line, as it ensures the LIFETIME warranty that i put on all paint work...even frame painting. However, matrix's epoxy is DIRECT TO METAL, and i know for a fact that even being out in the elements, it doesnt loose adhesion...a guy that used to work at the shop painted his 80-something Cutlass in MP900 Epoxy ONLY about 5 years ago and i saw it the other day...dulled as expected, but no flaking, cracking, etc.

If i wind up HAVING to go that route, i will invest in a portable bead blaster, but thats something i will think about after i have no other options.

Again, i do thank you for your suggestion and will keep it in mind if no one can come up with an idea using what i already have.

[Yelog60]

Sub the blasting out to another shop.. Your investment to get the right sized equipment will be much more than paying someone to do it.. And you can markup the sublet to make money for your time in setting up the appointment and hauling the frame..

[Harry Phinney]

... matrix's epoxy is DIRECT TO METAL, and i know for a fact that even being out in the elements, it doesnt loose adhesion.
The type of primer that 2cents was describing is an epoxy/acrylic hybrid that can be applied direct-to-metal (DTM) but sands about like a 2k urethane primer. These eliminate the need to topcoat an epoxy with a 2k in order to ease sanding. Looking through Matrix's website it does not appear that they offer such a primer. The primers like this that I've used are Valspar's DTM 2000 and HOK's KD2000 which to the best I can tell are identical.

Harry Phinney

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/f8e04950.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/7416ef19.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/5dcff4b9.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/a6c6f1aa.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/12a2881e.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/16619124.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/7bdcf2c0.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/9b4ab944.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/49fa9196.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/f8ae8962.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/a97d8926.jpg

[bunkystrimline]

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/1968ChevyC10-ENGINETranny3.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c85/gimp420247365/1968ChevyC10-ENGINETranny4.jpg

[Rustbelttrucker]

...can't convince myself to do any more work on it unless the entire job is done RIGHT).

Well, i finally convinced the owner to take the cab off the frame and do this thing the RIGHT way...

MY upcoming job on this truck begins with the frame, and i can honestly say, i've never actually DONE a job like this by myself.

Now that i have an OK from the truck's owner, i want to do what ever i can to make this truck last as long as possible.

Did you say this is your father's truck?

With the cab off the frame you missed a great opportunity to "do this thing the RIGHT way..." The frame should have been "bead blasted" as someone else already suggested, (actually sand would be the most likely media for a heavy frame). Sand blasting it is the only way to go. You'd have had a clean, like new metal surface to prime and paint. Not having the proper equipment is no excuse. You could have likely gotten it done for $200-400.

You can't paint over rust, or stop it with some "miracle" product. It HAS to be removed, period, for the best long term results. I'd have either removed the engine and trans, easy at this stage, or double bagged them and taped off anything you don't want blasted with Gorilla Tape.

Also I noticed the cab mounts are damaged with corrosion and really should be repaired or replaced.

There you have it....the criticism you were looking for. It appears no one else was willing to say anything. Now what was that you said about body shop guys? :D

[ikessky]

The frame on my '92 looks about the same actually. The mounts for the cab bushings have rotted and need to be replaced. As a temporary fix, I have some 1/8" plates that I will drill a hole in and set them on top of the original brackets. I say temporary because in the next few years I will be building a new garage that is big enough where I can rip the truck apart in the winter time and do the work I have planned. I bought a pressurized sand blaster and will start getting the areas that I can easily reach just so that the rust cancer doesn't continue to spread. Once I start in though, everything is getting blasted before paint.

Looks like a fun project though. Put some more photos up if you have any!

[another2centsworth]

The type of primer that 2cents was describing is an epoxy/acrylic hybrid that can be applied direct-to-metal (DTM) but sands about like a 2k urethane primer. These eliminate the need to topcoat an epoxy with a 2k in order to ease sanding. Looking through Matrix's website it does not appear that they offer such a primer. The primers like this that I've used are Valspar's DTM 2000 and HOK's KD2000 which to the best I can tell are identical.

Harry Phinney

I have found a Matrix Primer DTM that sands pretty good.


Lightning Primer.

MP4-2K / MA4-2K $ 103.73
MP4-2K / MA5-2K $ 75.66

It's not like 5-Star in the it doesn't mix as non-sanding sealer.
I mix it 4:1:10-15% and it lays down and fills 180 great.

http://www.matrixsystem.com/products.php?t2=3