1965 Mustang Coupe - Father and Son Build

[turbocobra]

I have been a member of the site for several months now. I am on the site several times a day reading and learning.

So far I have bought the following products from the store to use in the restoration.

- Picklex 20 (2 orders)
- Zero Rust
- Stud Gun Kit
- Spot Blaster
- Spot Weld Cutters

All orders were delivered within a couple of days, were reasonbly priced and worked as advertised.

A big thanks to Len and the other Senior level guys on the board that contribute.

I have been doing motor/turbo/tuning work on late model mustangs for a few years as a hobby, but his is my first attempt at any fabrication, rust repair, body work, etc. So we are learning as we go using this site as a primary source of information along with some videos, etc.

On to the car. It's a 1965 coupe. First time buying an old car, so its been a learning experience. The car is in much worse shape than I originally thought, and everytime I remove a panel, I find more rust or areas needing repair.

I am 38 and my son is 14. Our plan is to have the car ready for him by the time he starts his junior year in HS (he is a freshman now). My goal with the project is as follows:

- Teach him fabrication, bodywork, and automotive skills in general
- Spend time working together
- Create memories that we can reflect on for many years
- In this day and time, especially with younger people there is a trend of people looking for instant gratification on everything. I am hoping that working on the car at least 2-3 times a week for a couple of years will teach him that hard work does yield results, and if you want it to be right, you can shortcut or rush things. When he gets 16, he will also be expected to get a job to help buy parts for the car.

I started a blog to document the progress, keep notes and organize the pics. It's located here: http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/begining.html

This is what we started with:

This was the day (June, 08) we picked up the car in El Dorado, AR (5 hours from our home in Dallas)

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_0027.jpg

[turbocobra]

This is what the car looked like as we got it home and started disassembly:



http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/IMG_0030.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/IMG_0029.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/firewall2.jpg

[turbocobra]

The first thing we did was start with the Roof. We are doing all rust repair, body work, filler work and putting epoxy primer on one section or panel at a time.

Here are the blog updates for the roof work with lots of pics:

Roof Repair Part 1 - Shave Drip Rails
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-1-shave-drip-rail.html

Roof Repair Part 2 - Rust Repair and Dent Pulling
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-2-dent-removal-and.html

Roof Repair Part 3 - Epoxy Primer
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-3-epoxy-primer.html

A couple of before and after pics in case you don't want to have to go to the blog.

Before:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/driprailsanded2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/nodriprailcloseup.jpg

After all sheetmetal replacement, rust removal, shaved drip rail work, and filler work, we put a coat of PPG epoxy primer on it.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/roof-epoxyprimer-3.jpg

[turbocobra]

Now that the roof is complete, we are putting a full floor pan in the car as well as replacing the toe boards. Last weekend we go started removing the old floorpans. The previous owner had attempted a repair riveting in replacement metal on top of rusted metal and sealing over the rivets with a clear bathroom type caulk/sealent.

I will finish cutting the remainder of the floor pan out this weekend as soon as I receive the new spot weld cutters I ordered from the store. :D

Here is the blog link for the floor pan work: http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/floorpan-replacement-part-2-cutout.html

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/both-sides-out.jpg

[turbocobra]

The interior roof was prepped and painted with Black Zero rust. Turned out nice.

Here is the blog link: http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/interior-restore-part-3-roof-paint.html

Before:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/interior-before-2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/interior-before-1.jpg

After:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/interior-after-3.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/interior-after-1.jpg

[67 canso s/d]

The first thing we did was start with the Roof. We are doing all rust repair, body work, filler work and putting epoxy primer on one section or panel at a time.

Here are the blog updates for the roof work with lots of pics:

Roof Repair Part 1 - Shave Drip Rails
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-1-shave-drip-rail.html

Roof Repair Part 2 - Rust Repair and Dent Pulling
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-2-dent-removal-and.html

Roof Repair Part 3 - Epoxy Primer
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-3-epoxy-primer.html

A couple of before and after pics in case you don't want to have to go to the blog.

Before:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/driprailsanded2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/65%20Mustang%20Purchase/nodriprailcloseup.jpg

After all sheetmetal replacement, rust removal, shaved drip rail work, and filler work, we put a coat of PPG epoxy primer on it.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/roof-epoxyprimer-3.jpg


GREAT work Turbocobra !!!
I love the shaved drip rails.
There is nothing like doing a father and son project.
You have come a long way in a short while, and I admire your determination and knowledge. I can't say enough about your project.
I have a question on shaving the drip rails. What is the proper procedure to follow and what do you watch for?
I am planning to do my 67 Acadian, but need some expert advice before starting.
Thanks and sorry for stealing the thread.

[turbocobra]

GREAT work Turbocobra !!!
I love the shaved drip rails.
There is nothing like doing a father and son project.
You have come a long way in a short while, and I admire your determination and knowledge. I can't say enough about your project.
I have a question on shaving the drip rails. What is the proper procedure to follow and what do you watch for?
I am planning to do my 67 Acadian, but need some expert advice before starting.
Thanks and sorry for stealing the thread.

Thanks 67. It was my first time doing it, and if I can, anyone can. This site has a ton of info that can be helpful, particularly in the body work that you will need to do once they have been shaved.

Not sure if you saw the link to my blog, but here http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/01/roof-repair-part-1-shave-drip-rail.html is the writeup with some details, and step by step pictures.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to email or pm me.

Good luck.

[showcar]

curious to see what the left quarter looks like when you sand off the mess. I think there's metal somewhere down there! Lotta work but it'll be worth it when it's said and done.

[turbocobra]

curious to see what the left quarter looks like when you sand off the mess. I think there's metal somewhere down there! Lotta work but it'll be worth it when it's said and done.

The bottom rear of both quarters are rusted through. I have some repro patch panels to go on.

Otherwise I suspect there will be a few dents that need pulling and properly filled and blocked. Just like most every other panel on the car! :D

This is the first old car I have ever bought and certainly learned alot!

[jaak]

Cool Project, Turbo Cobra!! I look foward to me and my son doing a project together one day. (He is just 9 months old right now). Anyways keep up the good work and keep us updated on your progress.


Jason

[turbocobra]

It's been a couple of months since we did any work on the car. Finally got the full floor pan welded in and finished up, and this weekend we started welding in the new toeboards.

Here is the blog writeup for the the floor pan:
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/02/interior-restore-part-6-floor-installed.html

Here is the blog writeup for the toe boards:
http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/04/interior-restore-part-8-firewall.html

Lots of pics and info on the blog, but for those of you that don't want to click the link, a few pics:


Toeboard repair:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/driver-toeboard.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/toeboard-repairpanel-1.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/rightside-tackedin.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/toe-board-final.jpg

[Gibs07GTcpe]

Wow great job. I never thought of cutting that piece in half to install it.

Your project has really got me going on mine. I read alot of what you did and said hey I can do that too.


Gib

[Len]

I can't believe I haven't commented on this project, what a great project for you and your son. He will benefit from this effort for the rest of his life.

Are you letting him do any of the welding? Is he still enthusiastic? Kids can have a short attention span and loose that excitement after a while.

Be sure to use some of the Picklex on the metal before you weld, it makes the welds bite and flow more easily.

Keep up the good work.

[turbocobra]

I can't believe I haven't commented on this project, what a great project for you and your son. He will benefit from this effort for the rest of his life.

Are you letting him do any of the welding? Is he still enthusiastic? Kids can have a short attention span and loose that excitement after a while.

Be sure to use some of the Picklex on the metal before you weld, it makes the welds bite and flow more easily.

Keep up the good work.

Len,

Thanks for the comments. Yes, he has been very active in alot of the work. Cutting, welding, grinding, cleaning up.

I tried weld through Primer, but didnt' care for it. I have also used picklex on the back of patches that I could not reach the back of once it was welded in. But I didnt' think to use it on the toeboards because I can prep adn paint both sides once it is welded in.

He does loose interest easily. This part of the project is not really that fun. Alot of hard work and not much "bling" effect. I am sure the excitement will pickup once we start getting color on the car, putting the motor in, doing interior work, etc...

You probably have not looked at all of my blog entries, but here is one where I tought him to weld a little.

http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/04/interior-restore-part-7-welding-lesson.html

A couple of pics from this in case you don't want to follow the link:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/matt-welding.jpg

Plug Welds:
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/matt-weld-finish.jpg

[turbocobra]

OK, here is an update from some work Matt and I did this weekend.

Blog entry for full details: http://65turbostang.blogspot.com/2009/05/firewall-flange-repair.html

A few pics in case you dont' want to click the link.

Due to leaking seals, lack of protective coatings, etc, the cowl / firewall area rusts out on almost all classic mustangs.

This car really need a full firewall. The toe boards were rusted out, and the top flange of the firewall where the cowl mounts is damaged from the previous owner drilling out the spot welds, and the flange is rusted out in several areas as well. The firewall on these unibody cars is what connects the front subrame to the car and I did not want to mess with having the front subrame disconnected from the rest of the car.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/firewall2-1.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/flangebefore.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/corner-welded.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/flangeafter.jpg

[turbocobra]

Started working on the engine bay today. We are putting the Rod and Custom tubular front suspension with power r&p steering, disc brakes, coilovers, etc.

The passenger front fender apron, front 6" of frame rail, and core support will need to be replaced. Got the parts, going to start on it tomorrow.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/janky-suspension.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/no-suspension-2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/no-suspension2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/pile-o-junk-1.jpg

[turbocobra]

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/fender-wheels.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/fender-wheels-matt.jpg

[turbocobra]

More progress for anyone that is interested...

Got the rusted core support and passenger front fender apron cut out.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4873.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4874.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4877.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4879.jpg

[turbocobra]

NPD makes a very high quality frame extension patch. This corner of the frame sits right under the battery, battery acid eats through the tray, fender apron, and all the way to the frame rail, so all of it has to be replaced.

Closeup of the rust.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/rusted-framerail-close.jpg

Here is our notebook, with a measurements.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/pre-measurements.jpg

Looking for 29 1/2", which is exactly how it came out. Measure twice, cut once. :D

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/final-measurement.jpg

[turbocobra]

All braced up and ready to weld.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/getting-it-right.jpg

My welder was on the highest setting, and had decent penetration, but would have liked a little more, so I welded the seam inside and out.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/post-weld-inner.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/post-weld-outer.jpg

[Len]

Very cool! Please keep posting as you progress.

[jimmy riddle]

man, that is what it is all about...awesome! i have twin boys that are 7 and i can't wait until we do the same thing that you and your son are doing. great work by the way!

[turbocobra]

Thanks guys.

[tschmitt]

Great job so far. Keep the progress pics coming!

[turbocobra]

Not much, but a small update from this weekend.

Cut the Shock Towers off and got rid of the sway bar mount, and other brackets on the frame in preparation for the Rod and Custom Mustang II style tubular / coilover front suspension.

BTW, this is my first time doing any kind of restoration like this, so any constructive criticism or things you see I could do better I certainly welcome! :D

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4876.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/no-shock-towers.jpg

[turbocobra]

The front suspension kit comes with a shock tower delete panel, and me and matt cut cut a piece of sheetmetal to make the front part of the engine bay look nicer. The bead rolled slots and weld seams will be smoothed with body filler.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/driver-side-holes.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/driver-side-sheetmetal.jpg

[J-rod]

Excellent and love those rims...they are Boss 308's right? Those are the ones I want for my Wagon.

[turbocobra]

Excellent and love those rims...they are Boss 308's right? Those are the ones I want for my Wagon.

Thanks J-rod. Yes, the wheels are Boss, but they are actually 338's. Can't beat the price for a knockoff foose type wheel.

[motomann883]

very nice both my mustangs were to be father son project but the cars lost out to girls and motorcycles they became father projects with some help from good friends, but my sons sure like to drive them, i guess they could be doing worse things. keep up the good work cant wait to see the end result.

[RyanBayles]

great job and great father and son project, i just hope my two sons share the same love for early model cars and resto work that i do. I learned this hobby from my father when he and my older brother restored a old Cheyenne, i wasn't but about 8 or so he probably didn't even know i was paying attention but i was hooked on making something so damn ugly look pretty again. I just hope my kids will want to learn from me also, best of luck to you and your son, he will treasure the car alot more than just going out and buying one thats for sure.:proposeto

[turbocobra]

Thanks Ryan.

So far the project has been going well. I learned not to push him too hard early on and found the best way to get him going is to just go out and start working, once he hears me out there he will normally come join.

He did pick the car and loves all older cars. So far the work we have been doing, sanding, griding, rust repair, not very fun for a 14 year old.

Once we start on the motor, wiring, interior, etc, the excitement level should pick up.

I don't know about everyone else on here, but the part of this my son and I have both enjoyed the least is drilling out hundreds of spot welds!

I told him when we got the car going we would get him a personalized tag and the nickname of the car would be "SPOT-WELD" :D

[Roch_Greg]

Ya'll two put most to shame. I wanna say you've gotten more done in just this little while than many (including myself) get done in a year.

I'm so sick of drilling spot welds if I never see another that would suit me fine. :)

Great work so far and keep posting the pics.

GregY

[turbocobra]

Thanks Greg!

Here is the update from this weekend.

Engine Bay finished up. We are now on the home stretch of the rust repair and fabrication, moving onto the trunk pan, lower quarter panel patches, and tail light panel replacement.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/engine-bay-final-1.jpg

Here is a caster we added to be able to move the car around until we put the new suspension in.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/three-wheeler2.jpg

[turbocobra]

Well, after not moving the car off jackstands while working on the roof, floor pan and front part of the car, we finally back it out and turned it around so we can start working on the rear part of the car.

Tripod Mustang. :D

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/stretching-legs3.jpg

[Rustbelttrucker]

BTW, this is my first time doing any kind of restoration like this, so any constructive criticism or things you see I could do better I certainly welcome! :D

If you don't mind my asking, what do you do for a living? You have a lot of skills for a 1st time hobbyist taking on a complicated project. Very nice job so far.

Not a criticism, but I wouldn't have covered up the beading in the forward apron. Personally, I like the look of the beading and it compliments the shock tower delete panel, which is also beaded. I would smooth the welds and seams and leave the beading details to be seen. On the practical side the beading adds needed strength and stiffness.

By the way, that's a nice looking lawn too. Do you make your son do the mowing? :D

[turbocobra]

If you don't mind my asking, what do you do for a living? You have a lot of skills for a 1st time hobbyist taking on a complicated project. Very nice job so far.

Not a criticism, but I wouldn't have covered up the beading in the forward apron. Personally, I like the look of the beading and it compliments the shock tower delete panel, which is also beaded. I would smooth the welds and seams and leave the beading details to be seen. On the practical side the beading adds needed strength and stiffness.

By the way, that's a nice looking lawn too. Do you make your son do the mowing? :D

I am the Director of Information Technology for a healthcare company. First 6-8 years of my career I was a Network Technician/Engineer, and for the last 10-12 years have been in Management.

I hear you on covering up the beading. I plan to fill in the beading on the shock tower panels, and use some fiberglass filler on the edges of all of it, so it will be completedly smoothed out.

Oh yes, my son does the yardwork. Most of the time we tag team it. I do the trimming, blowing, while he does the mowing. If we tag team it we can knock it out in 45 minutes.

[turbocobra]

OK, a little update from the weekend.

Since we bought this car a year ago, I have dreaded fining out what was hiding under the fiber glass mat in the rear. You could see traces of the matting that was covered up with filler, paint, etc.

As suspectect, major rust/rott.

The trunk pans of course are rotted out junk. Thank goodness the frame rails were galvanized. The rust had just started to eat through the galvanizing on the last 6" of the rails. I am going to blast, picklex and zero rust them, should be good to go.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4953.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4954.jpg

[turbocobra]

Going to put full quarter skins on both sides and already have the inner wheel houses out in preparation for mini tubs, and goign to have to replace the outter housings and didn't feel comfortable doing that without some bracing.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4973.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4974.jpg


The tail light panel mocked up. This is a dynacorn piece (original ford tooling), and fits absolutley perfect. Could not beleive it. Every other piece of repro sheetmetal I have put on the car has required cutting, modifying, etc.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4975.jpg

[Grayle]

I see you are going to use skins. I am in the process of replacing my right side quarter with a skin. Where do you plan on welding on the top of the quarter, above or below the body line? The c scoop lines on the skin were too high and I had to move the bend on the tab that meets the rocker panel. Other than that, the skin fits pretty good.

[Rustbelttrucker]

Dynacorn is reproducing a '67 Mustang fastback body, firewall back, from original tooling. Washtenaw Community College is doing a complete build of the same, (they do absolutely awesome work) to raffle off for the benefit of the Salvation Army Staples Center and the National Kidney Foundation of MI.

[turbocobra]

I see you are going to use skins. I am in the process of replacing my right side quarter with a skin. Where do you plan on welding on the top of the quarter, above or below the body line? The c scoop lines on the skin were too high and I had to move the bend on the tab that meets the rocker panel. Other than that, the skin fits pretty good.

I actually did a full quarter and cut out what I needed. I ended up cutting above the top body line peak because the peak was creased in a couple of areas.

Pics shortly.

[turbocobra]

I orignally planned to put a lower rear patch on both quarters as they were rusted.

Upon removing all the paint and filler form the quarter, it was just too much to patch, so got to replace both of them.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4947-1.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4948-3.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4976-1.jpg

[turbocobra]

As you can see from above, the outer wheel housings are in bad shape. They didn't need to be fully replaced, and thought it would be easier to patch then replace the whole thing.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4980.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4979.jpg

Here you can see the cut line and gap. Because it's so narrow up there, the original piece nor the patch had enough left on it to use as a backing strip. So I have a pretty tight gap I can butt weld.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4978.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4977.jpg

[Gibs07GTcpe]

Great work, in october I will be starting on my wheel wells too. That is the way I was thinking of doing them. Thanks for the impromptu lesson....


What did you use to clean up the metal on the Wheelwell to get rid of the rust and stuff?


Gib

[turbocobra]

Great work, in october I will be starting on my wheel wells too. That is the way I was thinking of doing them. Thanks for the impromptu lesson....


What did you use to clean up the metal on the Wheelwell to get rid of the rust and stuff?


Gib

Gib, the underside of the wheel well was a mess. About 1/2" thick of undercoat, dirt, mud, paint. I first used a torch and scraper to get out as much as I could, then used a 4.5" wirewheel on a slow speed buffer/grinder to get the remainder. Aside from the outer edge that I replaced, I was suprised to see the rest of it was in decent shape under all the mess, just a little bit of surface rust which I treated with Picklex20.

Be ready for a mess, I had a huge pile of dirt and crap on the floor after doing the clean up. :D

[Gibs07GTcpe]

Mess is no big deal. I was using a blaster but the wife put a stop to that as my garage is connected to the laundry rom and when I used it, the dust would get into the house and stuff. I will use the wirewheel cup on the DeWalt grinder. Thanks for the info.


Keep up the great work.


Gib

[mkopsi]

awesome work, looking forward to the finished product!

[Grayle]

Turbocobra, how did you get such a tight gap on your upper cut line on the quarter panel?

[turbocobra]

Used 3/4 masking tap running right down the peak on both the hold piece and new piece and cut it with 3" cuttoff wheel.

I purposely cut about 1/16" outside the line on the new piece to allow for mistakes and final tweaking of the gap.

[Chris L]

Excellent and love those rims...they are Boss 308's right? Those are the ones I want for my Wagon.
What kind of wagon?

[Mooch]

What kind of wagon?



I think he means this one . Mooch




J-rod


My 93 Buick Roadmaster Wagon project

[turbocobra]

Well, it's been a while since the last update. Matt and I have been working on the car, but the progress has been slow. We disassembled the quarter windows and rebuilt them, painted over the chrome, and put in new regulators. This was much easier to do with the quarter panel off the car.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5355.jpg

About 1,000 tach welds:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5351.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5348.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5350.jpg

[turbocobra]

Welds ground down and ready for filler. I painted the backside of the welds with some Zero rust, and put picklex on top of the welds to keep them from rusting until I am ready for filler, and I will hit them with the grinder again before filler.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5352.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5354.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5353.jpg

[Gibs07GTcpe]

Looking good!!!!!! Any lessons learned from the 1/4 install? I am going to be doing mine shortly.

Thanks and keep the pics coming!


Gib

[turbocobra]

Looking good!!!!!! Any lessons learned from the 1/4 install? I am going to be doing mine shortly.

Thanks and keep the pics coming!


Gib

Gib, No real tricks. It was pretty straight forward. A few thoughts.

If your quarter windows need any work, it's a great time to do it because you have great access to them with the quarters off the car, and they are real pain to get to from inside the car.

Also, if you do your outer wheel houses, make sure to spend plenty of time getting them to fit perfectly with the new quarter on the car. The ones I got didn't fit the best back where the trunk pan overhang meets up and I have a gap there I will have to make a patch for, no big deal, but could have been better.

[tschmitt]

Nice work on the welds. Looks like alot of work but well worth it in the end.

[Len]

The only thing I may have done differently would be to cut and weld on the other side of the peak, about two inches down, because it would be easier to get the correct finished shape on an outside curve than on the inside curve. However it would depend on what metal conditions I had to start with.

[turbocobra]

The only thing I may have done differently would be to cut and weld on the other side of the peak, about two inches down, because it would be easier to get the correct finished shape on an outside curve than on the inside curve. However it would depend on what metal conditions I had to start with.

Len, That is what was reccomended on an earlier thread where I asked where I should cut, but up on examining the peak, it had 2 decent sized creases, so figured doing it this way would save some body work.

[turbocobra]

OK, here is a small update. For the last couple of weeks we have been messing around with the passenger side quarter glass.

I bought the eastwood glass polishing kit to try to restore this 40 year old quarter glass. I have spent countless hours and can't get the glass to stop fogging and hazing up, so I ended up just ordering new glass. $130 (ouch!).

So while waiting on that to come in, worked on a problem we created a few months earlier.

When we originally cut out the full floor pan, I just hacked it up at the back where it joins the mid trunk pan thinking I was going to replace the full trunk pan. So I had made a very uneven rough cut with my sawzall.

As it turns out, that center section is actually in pretty good shape. It's also expensive ($300) because it has the torque boxes, shock mounts, etc.

So squared up the gap filled it in with some 18gauge sheetmetal.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/1-Gap.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/2-SheetmetalPatches.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/3-WeldedIn.jpg

[Gibs07GTcpe]

The way the transition pan comes down and meets the floor is that it is spotwelded and is under the floorpan. Is that going to be an issue with it by just butt welding it together like that? Looks like good work as usual though. I am about to go get some metal from the store for my outer firewall area.


Gib

[turbocobra]

Here is an update from this weekend. Pretty much got the rear section of the car finished up. Just have to put on the lower rear valance, and a couple of other odd and ends.

I think this may have been posted earlier in this thread, but will post again as a reference for where we started.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4954-1.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_4953-1.jpg

So we ended up doing the following:


- Replaced both full quarter panels
- Replaced last 24” of frame rails on each side
- New trunk floor pan
- New gas tank
- New tail light panel
- New rear valance

[turbocobra]

The frame rails are galvanized and were in decent shape, but the inner supports for the spring shackles and factory tie down brackets were uncoated mild steel. I tried to get them out, but could not without tearing up the rails, so just decided to replace them.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5478.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/framerailcutout.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/sidebysidecutout.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/weldedinplace.jpg

[turbocobra]

Finished off with some ZR.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/painted2.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/painted.jpg

[turbocobra]

Here is the new trunk pans, gas tank, etc.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5687.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5688.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5686.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5685.jpg

[turbocobra]

And here it is with the old decklid, which I will be replacing due to really bad rust in the seams of the underside.

I was relatively pleased with the gaps, and overall fit of everything considering the amount of parts replaced and the aftermarket sheetmetal.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5684.jpg

[jaak]

Looks great.

Jason

[Len]

Great pictures and keep up the great work.

[cummins724]

Very nice work! I was 12 when my dad helped me restore my 64 Impala SS. He passed away in 02' from cancer & the car is needing freshhened up [19 years later] I plan on doing the restoration again with my boy one day [he is 2 1/2 now :rolleyes: ] He may fight you along the way, but he will cherish these moments the rest of his life. Good work bud!

[garagewear]

How is the door alignment? I know some of those quarters the lines are more rounded than oem an you end up having to work the lines to get them to match.

[turbocobra]

How is the door alignment? I know some of those quarters the lines are more rounded than oem an you end up having to work the lines to get them to match.

We did a couple of test fits, and the door alignment is decent, but is definitely going to take some tweaking to get right. That is our next step. Putting new hardware and skins on the doors, then we will spend as much time as needed to get the fitted, gaps straightened out, etc.

[brycer]

this thread is awesome

[turbocobra]

Me and Matt have been working on the passenger side door the last few weeks, haven't had as much time to work on it. Finally got rebuilt with all new internals, and we did our first door skin. For all the complaining, etc I have read in researching it, it really wasn't that bad...

Still need to tweak the gaps a little. Front fender is just sitting on there and not bolted down, so that is why the door to fender gap isn't great.

Any suggestions on the quarter to door gap?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5791.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5789.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_5790.jpg

[turbocobra]

My dad was in town visiting, so we put him to work. It took three generations to restore this fender!

My son and My dad
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/1.jpg

Me and My dad.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/4-1.jpg

Some aircraft stripper loosend things up about before we started removing the old materials.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/2.jpg

Matt getting the patch ready
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/5-1.jpg

[turbocobra]

Matt is masking off the area so we can blast and treat the surface rust on the inner fender support piece. We treated with Picklex and painted with ZR before putting welding the patch in.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/6.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/7.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/8.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/9.jpg

[turbocobra]

Close up of the weld.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/10.jpg

Weld ground, and ready for a little body filler to finish it off.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/11.jpg

[Len]

Nice job! Did you butt weld or use the backing strip method?

[turbocobra]

Nice job! Did you butt weld or use the backing strip method?

I ended up butt welding it. I ended up with a very tight gap, so didn't use backing strip, although wish I would have. the existing metal was a little thin and blew through in couple of spots, but was able to recover and clean it up...

[Primal]

uh you butt welded rear spring supporting frame rails without fishplating? your brave.

Must be nice to find stamped pieces to work with. Nice welds on fender btw.

[turbocobra]

The rear frame rails are boxed, and it will have a four link tubular setup with coilovers... I think it will be fine.

[jwilson645]

I know this is an old thread but.......................Great work! I did a 64 1/2 a few years ago and while it was no where near as rusty as that one, I can appreciate the work. You did a fantastic job for a first timer.


Any updates?

[turbocobra]

Thanks Man. We are still working on it. All the rust repair, sheetmetal replacement and rough in body work is finished. Will be priming with epoxy and 2K tomorrow. Will have some pics.

Will be ordering the suspension setup in the next couple of weeks, and will be doing the engine this summer, then will be ready for final block sanding and BC/CC.

[turbocobra]

Updates from today.

Car sprayed with Omni Epoxy, will be spraying 2K tomorrow.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Gary-Matt.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Gary-Matt-Mixing.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Gary-Mattpriming.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/EngineBay.jpg

[turbocobra]

A few more...

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Car-Primed.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Priming-roof.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/RearPrimed.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/Carprimed4.jpg

[Len]

Great pictures! How close are you to applying paint?

[turbocobra]

My guess is 3 months. We are doign suspension and engine/trans next, then will be painting it. Going to shoot slick sand on top of sanded 2K for final blocking. I am going to have a pro spray the base coat / clear coat, but we will do all the prep.

[Len]

My guess is 3 months. We are doign suspension and engine/trans next, then will be painting it. Going to shoot slick sand on top of sanded 2K for final blocking. I am going to have a pro spray the base coat / clear coat, but we will do all the prep.

We usually apply the Slcik Sand BEFORE the 2K primer because the SS is more porous and the 2K helps seal the more porous material so that the paint doesn't get absorbed and loose it's gloss as it dries/hardens. Be sure to use a guide coat when block sanding anything.

[turbocobra]

I did it this way because I wasn't going to paint it immediatly. I posted on here a while back, and the reccomendation was epoxy, 2K... then when I am ready to paint, block the 2K, apply slick sand, block, then seal and bc/cc. How does that sound?

Yes of course, will be using 3M dry guide coat, will be ordering some from you.

[Bob K]

Think of slick sand as liquefied filler, “Bondo” if that helps put it in perspective. It goes on thin and more or less uniform compared to applying with a plastic spreader. It makes a nice skim coat for final blocking of filler. It still wants 2k (2 part) surfacer on top of it before paint. If your 2K is blocked why don’t you just paint it?

It sounds like you didn’t understand an old post or we failed to correct one that was in error. That’s my take on this.

Bob K

[turbocobra]

Thanks Bob. Definitely aware of slick sand and it's use. I asked if it was ok to leave slick sand unfinished for several months, and the reccomendation from multiple people came back to go epoxy/2K, then when ready to paint, will block the 2K, apply slick sand, block it, then seal and paint? Or after slick sand is blocked will I need 2K again?

I won't be applying slick sand to the whole car, but the roof and fenders were pretty rough, and I did some work to them, but though the slick sand would help me do the final straightening and body line defnition.

[Phil V]

Thanks Bob. Definitely aware of slick sand and it's use. I asked if it was ok to leave slick sand unfinished for several months, and the reccomendation from multiple people came back to go epoxy/2K, then when ready to paint, will block the 2K, apply slick sand, block it, then seal and paint? Or after slick sand is blocked will I need 2K again?

I won't be applying slick sand to the whole car, but the roof and fenders were pretty rough, and I did some work to them, but though the slick sand would help me do the final straightening and body line defnition.


Thats the wrong sequence. If it is your intention to take several months of working on/off and the whole car is stripped to bare metal then you put a couple coats of epoxy to seal all the bare metal. Then you go panel by panel filling the dents and whatever other bodywork needs to be done. I don't use slick sand unless I'm working with a fiberglass panel (like a corvette thats really rough). As was previously stated - polyester primer (slick sand and several other brand names) are in reality sprayable bondo. They are chemically the same, just the polyester primer is thin enough to spray out of a spray gun. And the regular filler is spread with a squeege. Actually you shouldn't need to use polyester primer if you did your filler work correctly. A couple applications of 2K high fill primer and block sanding a couple time should be enough to get the car ready for paint. I like to thin epoxy prime down a little and use it for a final sealer coat just before shooting the basecoat followed by the clear coat.

If a car is so rough that it needs slick sand then you didn't do your filler work correctly (unless we're dealing with a really cobbled mess of a corvette, and I've seen enough of those.)

[turbocobra]

Thanks Phil. Given that this is the first bodywork i have done, I am pretty sure I didn't do some things correctly, including the filler. The fenders are original and were beat up pretty bad, so rather than skim coat the whole thing with rage extreme, i left some of the smaller dings and the filler work I did do was kind of roughed in, just thought the slick sand would be easier.

[turbocobra]

At this point, is it ok if I scuff the 2K, then slick sand, then seal with reduced epoxy/sealer?

[Len]

Thats the wrong sequence. If it is your intention to take several months of working on/off and the whole car is stripped to bare metal then you put a couple coats of epoxy to seal all the bare metal. Then you go panel by panel filling the dents and whatever other bodywork needs to be done. I don't use slick sand unless I'm working with a fiberglass panel (like a corvette thats really rough). As was previously stated - polyester primer (slick sand and several other brand names) are in reality sprayable bondo. They are chemically the same, just the polyester primer is thin enough to spray out of a spray gun. And the regular filler is spread with a squeege. Actually you shouldn't need to use polyester primer if you did your filler work correctly. A couple applications of 2K high fill primer and block sanding a couple time should be enough to get the car ready for paint. I like to thin epoxy prime down a little and use it for a final sealer coat just before shooting the basecoat followed by the clear coat.

If a car is so rough that it needs slick sand then you didn't do your filler work correctly (unless we're dealing with a really cobbled mess of a corvette, and I've seen enough of those.)

I'm with you to a point Phil.... I find that Slick Sand is a real time saver if you want to get large areas finished perfectly then, after the Slick Sand, I apply my 2K to finish the job. The Slick Sand allows me to apply filler to a large area very evenly without having to worry about irregularities generated by using a spreader to apply the filler. Great stuff for large jobs and, yes, it's real good for leveling the irregularities in fiberglass panels.

[Len]

At this point, is it ok if I scuff the 2K, then slick sand, then seal with reduced epoxy/sealer?

That should be fine. What color is the finished car going to be?

[turbocobra]

Probably some combination of Candy red and silver.

[Bob K]

Just a quick question turbocobra, when you say 2k, are you talking about epoxy? That is in fact a two part product but when I say 2k I am talking about a two part primer surfacer that needs to be sanded to shape (not epoxy). Maybe we are saying the same words but meaning different things. At my shop 2k is the last thing sprayed and then blocked before base coat paint.

Bob K

[turbocobra]

Bob, yes, 2K as in primer surfacer that is sanded. I sprayd the car with epoxy first, then primer/surfacer, Omni 182 to be specific.

Thanks,

[turbocobra]

We had planned all along to put a 2JZ-GTE Toyota Twin Turbo Inline 6 in the car. Made the purchase yesterday. This car came originally with an inline 6, so not too far fetched. But you purists... please don't hate! This car will not be riced out, it will be tastefully done.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_7588.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/027.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/028.jpg

[turbocobra]

Starting on the Suspension System. We made the video with iMovie on my Iphone... I don't think Hollywood will be calling anytime soon.

Used the finishline gun with 1.3 tip I got from Len.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-WXiireuQQ

Rod and Custom MII Suspension:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/004.jpg


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/003.jpg


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/001.jpg

[turbocobra]

A couple of updates. Painted a test panel, and got the suspension installed.

Working building motor mounts, and making the Toyota 2JZ Fit.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/007.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_0331.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/IMG_0329.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/0032.jpg

[turbocobra]

Here is a video of us spraying a test panel on an extra door skin that we didn't use.

Feel free to critique my technique or anything else. Will be ordering a good gun from Len soon and painting the whole car.

Both the top charcoal and candy have metallic bases, and noticed some striping. Seems as if I need to spray 3 coats of metallic base, and alternating the pattern for each coat. 1 Horizontal, and a couple of alternating diagonal spray patterns. Thougths?


http://www.youtube.com/user/turbocobra?feature=mhee#p/u/11/XKZMyr6Dg5Q

http://www.youtube.com/user/turbocobra?feature=mhee#p/u/11/XKZMyr6Dg5Q

[Len]

It looks like you're doing good. Be sure that you use the correct inlet pressure at the gun, it sounded like the pressure was too high but that could be just the way it sounded online.

Remember that the base and candy coats don't need to be real smooth because you'll be applying clear on top and spraying the metallic too wet can cause stripes especially with inexpensive paint products.

I wouldn't sand the filler primer with 80 grit, reserve the 80 for body filler and sand your first coat of primer with 120 to 180 before applying your second coat. Coarse scratches can come back to haunt you later even when you apply the same material on top of them. We usually wet sand our first coat with 220 or 320 before applying a second coat then wet sand the second coat with 400 or 600 before painting.

[turbocobra]

Thanks Len. That is the finishline gun. Had the 1.3 tip at 27 or 28 psi inlet.

Yes, I mispoke on that. We have been sanding the 2K primer with 180, and plan to do our final sanding with 400 wet, then finish with 600 wet.

Good point on the base coat, I am always afraid of dry spray, so probably tend to go a little to wet, so will go a little dryer with it and see if that helps the stripes.

Do you think doing 3 coats of metallic base going ----- with the first coat, then / with the second and \ with the third?

[Len]

Do you think doing 3 coats of metallic base going ----- with the first coat, then / with the second and \ with the third?

If you don't spray it too wet it shouldn't make a difference however inexpensive paint can be difficult to control and you can cause mottling very easily. Back off and don't spray it wet and you should be ok. You might want to try that test panel again to see the result using a different method of spraying.

I have to give you a lot of credit, your son is learning how to do things properly.

[turbocobra]

Thanks, will do that. Hopefully this paint job will last 5-10 years, and after he gets out of HS and College, and maybe a different daily driver and do a very nice paint job.

Good suggestions on respraying the test panel.

One thing I had to get used to is how much more quickly the gun flows with bc/cc compared to primer, as so far I had only been spraying primer. That video was the first BC/CC I had sprayed.

Yes, I am trying to expose him to the right and wrong way of doing things. Alot of credit is owed to this site, never would have been able to do all of this without it! So thanks Len for all the support and guidance!

[turbocobra]

A little update from the weekend.

Now working on wiring, fuel system, brakes, battery relocation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmL82yMeBHQ

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/caronground.jpg

[Henry]

A little update from the weekend.

Now working on wiring, fuel system, brakes, battery relocation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmL82yMeBHQ

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/caronground.jpg

I've been following this build for a long time. Congrats on the progress. What better thing could a father and son do? Sure beats what the other kids are doing. Now, question is, who gets to drive the car?

For the videos, they say a 1000 words. Dad, hear you loud and clear; son, you need a better microphone.

I sort of cringed when I saw the buzz bomb spraying above where the rearend was going. Very sensitive area. Would haved liked seeing a better paint (protection value) applied even with a detail gun.

Keep the videos coming and good luck. Henry

[turbocobra]

Thanks Henry! Well, Len highly reccomends Zero Rust for chassis, frame rails, floor pans, etc. So that is what we use. Nice thing is, it makes maintenance and touch up easy.

We did spray the inside of the mini tubs with a cheap truck bed liner for a more durable surface.

Would have love to have done the whole under body with epoxy primer and an inexpensive single stage urethane, but we don't have a rotisserie, and would have been a real challenge laying on your back, although i guess no more difficult than spraying a rattle can. We used a detail gun, expoxy primer and bc/cc on the rear end. itself.

[Len]

Thanks Henry! Well, Len highly reccomends Zero Rust for chassis, frame rails, floor pans, etc. So that is what we use. Nice thing is, it makes maintenance and touch up easy.

We did spray the inside of the mini tubs with a cheap truck bed liner for a more durable surface.

Would have love to have done the whole under body with epoxy primer and an inexpensive single stage urethane, but we don't have a rotisserie, and would have been a real challenge laying on your back, although i guess no more difficult than spraying a rattle can. We used a detail gun, expoxy primer and bc/cc on the rear end. itself.

The aerosol Zero Rust will work fine as long as it was applied wet and not dusted on. And it is easy to reapply if you should have a problem down the road.

[Henry]

Thanks Henry! Well, Len highly reccomends Zero Rust for chassis, frame rails, floor pans, etc. So that is what we use. Nice thing is, it makes maintenance and touch up easy.

We did spray the inside of the mini tubs with a cheap truck bed liner for a more durable surface.

Would have love to have done the whole under body with epoxy primer and an inexpensive single stage urethane, but we don't have a rotisserie, and would have been a real challenge laying on your back, although i guess no more difficult than spraying a rattle can. We used a detail gun, expoxy primer and bc/cc on the rear end. itself.

That's why Len is the boss. I didn't realize he already had you hooked up.
My first impression was a buzz bomb or Krylon or Duplicolor.
Really impressed with you guys. Henry

[turbocobra]

LOL, exactly, Len is the Man! I have bought 1 gallon can and probably 8-10 spray cans of ZR. We stripped the paint off the entire car, inside and out, the whole underside of the car is zero rust, interior, both sides of the one piece full floor pan, inside and outside of trunk sheetmetal, frame rails, etc.

I like it because as things get a little nicked up, can just scuff it a little, clean and touch it up.

[jwilson645]

Except for the Toyota engine I love this project. It's just that the engine swap reminds me of the Fast and Furious movie and that whole "scene". I'm sure it's going to be cool, just tell him not to be out trying to "drift" it. ;):steering:

[turbocobra]

Here is an update. Motor in and running.

Will be making full exhaust and intercooler pipes from 3" mandrel tubing.

After that we will be pulling everything back out and time for final blocking, filling, priming, blocking, and paint.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oyx5b6xABcs

[Gcwstang]

I am new to this I saw your mustang on YouTube and
Like what you are doing to it I am 15 and also have a 1965 mustang project that I am working on so this is helping me.
I was wondering why you are not using a ford engine?
Can't wait to see the finished project

[turbocobra]

I am new to this I saw your mustang on YouTube and
Like what you are doing to it I am 15 and also have a 1965 mustang project that I am working on so this is helping me.
I was wondering why you are not using a ford engine?
Can't wait to see the finished project

That's awesome that you have a 65 mustang. You driving it now? You going to restore it? This site has all the knowlege and products you will need for a restoration in terms of body work, paint work, tools, supplies, etc.

As for your question. Well, this is a bit of a restomod, with a few different customizations. 65 mustang coupes with 289 or 302 are a dime a dozen (no disrepect to anyone that has this), but we just wanted something a little different.

And you really can't beat the price for a drop in swap motor that has tons of power potential. 40,000 mile motor, trans, ecu, harness, all accessories, transmission for $1800. you can't build a ford equivalent motor/trans for that.

[Gcwstang]

I am in the process of restoring it right now hoping to use it done within the next year or so at this time it is not avaliable to drive I am sanding and priming all the panels and then I am dropping in a 5.0 fuel injected and 5speed world class. I was wondering what you think about the mustang 2 suspension U

[another2centsworth]

Cool build. Ford nuts are hatin'. Whats the peak horsepower/torque rating at what RPM here?

[turbocobra]

It makes 300 HP stock. It can make 400 turning the boost up, and 500 with Turbo and fuel system upgrades. All on the stock motor.

[turbocobra]

OK, now that we have done all the sheetmetal / rust repair, fabrication work, suspension, motor, trans install, we have pulled everything out to begin the final body work and paint.

Got a Tekna gun from Len, and plan to put up a temporary paint booth in the garage with plastic, filter ventilation, etc.

Will be posting a few videos with progress. Would appreciate any comments or feedback things you see I may be doing wrong or any suggestions:

Have also watched Len's Spray Painting 101, which was very helpful. One thing that was not covered in detail in that vid that I don't have a good grasp on is painting jambs.

We are doing:
1. Engine bay first, then reinstalling the motor (to make room in the shop)
2. Jambs
3. Rest of the car

First vid of engine bay work, should be ready to spray color on it in 2-3 days:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdHGSwSfDTA&feature=youtu.be

[Phil V]

It makes 300 HP stock. It can make 400 turning the boost up, and 500 with Turbo and fuel system upgrades. All on the stock motor.

How old is your son ? and he's going to be driving the car ?

[turbocobra]

Yes it is his car... he is 18.

[Phil V]

Yes it is his car... he is 18.

I think its great that you and your son are doing an older mustang as a father son project. I dont' mean to rain on your parade but there is no way in hell I would give any 18 year old (son or daughter) a 300 to 500 hp car. The reason the drinking age is 21 is because kids at 18 make bad decisions. Psychologists will tell you that an 18 year old persons brain isn't "full wired" to function as an adult. They just don't get it, they think they are invincible. We all took chances back at that age that most normal adults would not do. Some got away with it and some didn't. A good friend of my sons dad bought his son a crotch rocket for his 18th birthday. Less than a month later he made a bad choice and totaled the bike. He sustained permanent brain damage and will be 12 years old mentally for the rest of his life. We all said " what the hell was his dad thinking, the dad is as much or more to blame than his son". You can say - well my son is very responsible and wouldn't take stupid chances in that car but all it takes is one or two buddies riding along with him to egg him on to drive the car recklessly. Like I said - I don't mean to rain on your parade but it needed to be said.

[Mooch]

I think the car is looking really nice . I'm a Ford guy and would have went with a Ford engine just in case i wanted to sell it . But i think the engine you are going with is cool . Kind of reminds of the 50s and 60s when we changed motors from one make to another all the time .

Your boy looks like a good kid in the pictures and i'm sure he will be just fine .


Mooch

[jaak]

Nice project, and very nice work.....you guys should be real proud!

As far as the Toyota engine.... I think it's pretty cool, that's thinking 'outside the box'!

Keep up the good work, and look forward to updates,
Jason

[turbocobra]

I think its great that you and your son are doing an older mustang as a father son project. I dont' mean to rain on your parade but there is no way in hell I would give any 18 year old (son or daughter) a 300 to 500 hp car. The reason the drinking age is 21 is because kids at 18 make bad decisions. Psychologists will tell you that an 18 year old persons brain isn't "full wired" to function as an adult. They just don't get it, they think they are invincible. We all took chances back at that age that most normal adults would not do. Some got away with it and some didn't. A good friend of my sons dad bought his son a crotch rocket for his 18th birthday. Less than a month later he made a bad choice and totaled the bike. He sustained permanent brain damage and will be 12 years old mentally for the rest of his life. We all said " what the hell was his dad thinking, the dad is as much or more to blame than his son". You can say - well my son is very responsible and wouldn't take stupid chances in that car but all it takes is one or two buddies riding along with him to egg him on to drive the car recklessly. Like I said - I don't mean to rain on your parade but it needed to be said.

Phil, I appreciate the guidance adn thougths. Hate to hear about your friends son and the crotch rocket. I think each teenager is different. There is no way I would give my daughter this car, because she is a bit wrecklace, careless and has that invincible type attitude. Matt (my son), is very conservative and safe. If kids today really want to be wrecklace or safe, they can do that in any of our cars. All the cars in our drive way have between 260-350 HP, and he drives them all. He used to ride dirt bikes, and was always real safe on those, never had an accident out on the trails.

Oh and you didn't rain on my parade, we are moving forward with all plans... again, I do appreciate you sharing your perspective.

[turbocobra]

We painted the engine bay yesterday:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/011-3.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9YAum4519s

[Len]

We painted the engine bay yesterday:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/011-3.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9YAum4519s

Lookin good! Love the color.

[turbocobra]

Thanks Len, the Tekna gun worked great. Appreciate all your support, and the support of this site.

[Henry]

Thanks Len, the Tekna gun worked great. Appreciate all your support, and the support of this site.

Glad to see PAINT going on!!! Great color like the boss said.

Color takes me back to a neighborhood buddy who bought one of the first 289 Fastbacks in that color with black interior. I still see his car in my mind anytime I read something on older Mustangs.

You guys are doing a fantastic job and your photo documentation is great and so important. Glad you're sharing you build on this site so we all can follow and the advice and products you need are available here as well. Can't wait to see more going forward. Now you can say It Will Be Done THIS Year. Henry

[turbocobra]

Henry, Mooch, Jaak, thanks for the positive comments.

Len, thanks for all the advice and good products over the last 2-3 years. We are on the final stretch of this thing, will be painting it soon, then onto final assembly.

Here is a video from last night, with the motor going back for hopefully the last time...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy96lmkYE3U

[another2centsworth]

LOVE the color turbo!!! 8)

[turbocobra]

LOVE the color turbo!!! 8)

Thanks man!

[turbocobra]

On the final stages of bodywork in prep for paint.

We decided to install 64 thunderbird (shelby style) tail lights in the 65.

Here are 3 videos where we captured our progress.


Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uObpcxpsApE

Part 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0_fF4HkXMI&feature=plcp&context=C4de3632VDvjVQa1PpcFOb8SmuE6TvKB8_mN9mI4rh onAV79NfEUU%3D

Part 3

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIrJZ1ETanI&feature=plcp&context=C462ca98VDvjVQa1PpcFOb8SmuE6TvKFKHqmmkWAWT 8NIgMA0mTuY%3DE

[Gibs07GTcpe]

You guys are doing great work! Cant wait for the picture heavy final results!

Gib

[turbocobra]

Thanks Gib.

We put the car in final prime over the weekend... a few pics.


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/011-4.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/007-5.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/turbocobra95/015-1.jpg

[turbocobra]

Got our paint booth completed and started painting the jambs last night.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdXcMG4R2mE&feature=player_embedded

[Bob K]

Painting looks good, I don’t have anything to add to that but let me make a suggestion on your fan. I would place the filter box on the inside so the fan motor runs in clean air. A few days like you did today probably won’t hurt it but after a while paint will build up inside the motor. The motor is cooled by letting some of the air flow go past and near the windings and some paint is going to build up in there every time you spray. Another thing is if your filters plug up you won’t be able to see it if they are outside the shop. You are using good filters but that isn’t going to work in your favor. They plug up faster. I switched to those green fiber filters you can get at Home Depot, 5 for $6.00 or something like that. They look like they won’t do a good job because you can almost see through them but they do catch an amazing amount of paint. I never use them twice. They are too cheap to take a chance on plugging up. I just use two on a large furnace squire cage fan. You will be able to see just how well they work by examining a filter after use. There is a coat of paint on the outside surface and most of the internal mesh is still clean after use.

Bob K

[turbocobra]

Really good advice on the fan/filter setup, didn't even think to put them inside. It also makes sense to use the cheaper filters that don't filter as much material that may flow better.

Really appreciate that and will definitely follow the reccomendation.

Thanks!

[another2centsworth]

Looks good turbo. Been so long I forgot what clear you guys chose.... :redface:

[turbocobra]

Thanks man! We are using Urekem Paint. The clear on the Jambs is 4:1 medium solids. We are using 2:1 high solids on the rest of the car....

[turbocobra]

More Jamb Painting:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKzQCAz1Rbk&list=UUg8MxKRzMw0gYcIVnxzeMZA&index=1&feature=plcp

[turbocobra]

Final blocking with 600 wet before paint.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHp6EMmHWm4

[Bob K]

Nice work! Now can I tell you two things I would do differently? Where you sprayed over that little spot of filler on the quarter, I would have left the masking paper off. Like you said earlier the little bit of overspray can be sanded off with almost no effort but now you have the hard lines from the masking to deal with. Every pass of the block takes off a little of your surfacer. A little off the area you sprayed and a little off the area you masked. You may make a little dip in the thickness of the surrounding surfacer while you chase the hard edge away. You probably won’t notice the low spot until you get the clear coat on and with luck you won’t see it at all but if things don’t work out perfect then you may see a little bit of a wow in the reflection of straight lines as the car moves by.

The other thing I would do is skip the sealer. This car looks nice and uniform so I would just spray my color on the surfacer. I do sealer when I have a blue door and a white trunk lid and a black quarter and a dozen small repairs making the car look like a clown car from the circus. Then sealer would give me a uniform undercoat and let me get by with minimal coverage of base coat. Next time you have surfacer in the gun just spray over those sand throughs with out masking and feather them out.

I’ve always felt the best paint job you can get is with the least amount of thickness that you can achieve. Thick paint chips easier than thin paint so a coat of sealer where it isn’t needed just adds thickness. (And cost)

Don’t take this the wrong way, I think you have an excellent project going on and the preceding is just my observation of little things you are doing differently than I do.

Bob K

[turbocobra]

Thanks alot Bob. I don't take anything you say in a critical way. This is my first paint job and I have no history, knowlege, or experience.

The reason I wanted to spray sealer is that there is some differences in the colors of primers I used, and body filler showing through in a few areas, as well as bare metal.

Your right on the spot prime. I did back mask those, so there is a soft edge, but an edge none the less. I just didn't want to get alot of overspray on areas where we didn't want it, and already had it sanded to 600 grit.

This won't be a show quality paint job, so it will likely have some a couple waves here or there....

I really do appreciate your insight and comments. Will definitely apply some of the suggestions...

[turbocobra]

Tomorrow is finally paint day!

Prep video from today:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgwwO_Z5k8A

[turbocobra]

Painted the Candy Today.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nka2GdZLDCk

[kcode]

Beautiful car, nice job!! Most everything should sand out. Most people will not notice the bugs or dust if you don't point it out:)

[Henry]

As you and Matt have found out, there is a ton of work in what you guys did along with a ton of variables to reach the 'ready to paint' stage.
I still consider it a reward when it's time to paint.

Anyway, looks great from here and you guys must have been tired at the end of the day (or night). Hope you cleaned the guns well. One thing I noticed was a hell of a wide pattern with all the guns you used including the FinishLine.

Henry

[turbocobra]

Thanks everyone!

Thanks Henry. Actually the finishline we had the pattern about halfway open for those little spot primes. The others, we opened the pattern wide open, then turned it in 1/2 turn, which is what I have seen most people do.

[turbocobra]

A few pics in the sun, and prepping for the second color of our 2 tone paint job.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvFuMXB8j60

[Len]

Beautiful job! I can't wait to see it with the second color.

[65bcstang]

Hey turbocobra,

I've been looking at your progress both here and on youtube where I actually found you first and man nice job, seriously.
I wanted to ask a few things though...
I noticed the welder you were using but not sure if it's just for a standard outlet or is it 220v? If it's for a standard outlet then Im curious to know how you welded the engine cradle to the frame for the Mustang II suspension?
Were you able to achieve good penetration with it or what was your technique?

I ask because I'm looking into something similar and want to buy a Hobart or Matco welder which can get as good as 1/4" penetration I believe but not sure if that's good enough.

Also, where did you buy your Mustang II suspension kit from? Not sure if you mentioned it already but I was curious to know. I found one on ebay for $1,560 which includes everything but the sway bar. Not sure to trust the quality or not having a sway bar but all in all it looks exactly like the one you installed for the most part. Here's a link...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1968-Ford-Mustang-IFS-Suspension-Kit-NEW-64-65-66-/170705356947#vi-desc

Thanks.

[turbocobra]

Hey turbocobra,

I've been looking at your progress both here and on youtube where I actually found you first and man nice job, seriously.
I wanted to ask a few things though...
I noticed the welder you were using but not sure if it's just for a standard outlet or is it 220v? If it's for a standard outlet then Im curious to know how you welded the engine cradle to the frame for the Mustang II suspension?
Were you able to achieve good penetration with it or what was your technique?

I ask because I'm looking into something similar and want to buy a Hobart or Matco welder which can get as good as 1/4" penetration I believe but not sure if that's good enough.

Also, where did you buy your Mustang II suspension kit from? Not sure if you mentioned it already but I was curious to know. I found one on ebay for $1,560 which includes everything but the sway bar. Not sure to trust the quality or not having a sway bar but all in all it looks exactly like the one you installed for the most part. Here's a link...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1968-Ford-Mustang-IFS-Suspension-Kit-NEW-64-65-66-/170705356947#vi-desc

Thanks.

Thanks man!

Not sure if you have looked at my channel at some of the older videos, but yes, we only have a lincoln 110 welder. We did all the mock up and tacked all the suspension in with the 110. We took the car to a Friends Chassis shop who has a big welder to burn in all the welds. Don't think you could get the 110 hot enough to get good penetration on all the suspension components. Just not worth the risk.

We are using the Rod and Custom IFS and rear 4 link setup. Really great people and great products.

That is a very good price on the ebay one, but I am not familiar with it.

Hope that helps!

Gary

[turbocobra]

We sprayed the top coat (single stage urethane) and had some issues with the gun setup and air pressure, and put alot of stripes in it, so now we get to wet sand it and spray it again.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-69nwVHBPI

[Len]

We sprayed the top coat (single stage urethane) and had some issues with the gun setup and air pressure, and put alot of stripes in it, so now we get to wet sand it and spray it again.

The inlet pressure can change if you put the regulator on a different gun because a different gun can use a different amount of air. If the gun uses more air the pressure will tend to drop, less air and the pressure will tend to be higher. You'll need to readjust the regulator for each gun.

Don't use single stage metallic, it's very difficult to spray without getting stripes. Use base/clear.

[Wydir]

It may just be me but when you sprayed the flat color you are not overlapping enough. Your passes very greatly from one pass to another. I over lap 75% when I paint (also I don't spray much single stage met jobs).
the gun may need to be disassembled and given a good cleaning you may have some hidden gunk in it by the way its spraying also(not giving you a full pattern). lastly by the sound (I know right, the sound he says) but it would seem the pressure is a bit to high for the gun. some times we just adjust the gun to make it do what we want and don't rely on what the gauge says. and learn to finesse the gun a bit more you kind of point and shoot a lot.


Ok ok I'm done. Looks great gentlemen the family will have many stories to share because of this car now and in the future. Great accomplishment!

Ok one more thing you may want to practice on something else with the flat color before the car ( I'm just trying to save you some more sanding). Single stage met colors are hard for professional painters let alone a newbie in a garage. (no that's not an insult I'm just saying it's going to be hard)

[kcode]

I find that when I shoot matallics, that I need to really watch the distance on my gun to make sure I don't get striping. I agree with always shooting on some paper to figure out the best distance and over lapping for the paint, no matter what I am shooting.

I use one gun for all my paint and clear, but I'm too cheap to buy more guns. I just adjust the pressure on each material. I use another gun for primers though.

Looking good, I'm sure it will turn out great.

[turbocobra]

It may just be me but when you sprayed the flat color you are not overlapping enough. Your passes very greatly from one pass to another. I over lap 75% when I paint (also I don't spray much single stage met jobs).
the gun may need to be disassembled and given a good cleaning you may have some hidden gunk in it by the way its spraying also(not giving you a full pattern). lastly by the sound (I know right, the sound he says) but it would seem the pressure is a bit to high for the gun. some times we just adjust the gun to make it do what we want and don't rely on what the gauge says. and learn to finesse the gun a bit more you kind of point and shoot a lot.


Ok ok I'm done. Looks great gentlemen the family will have many stories to share because of this car now and in the future. Great accomplishment!

Ok one more thing you may want to practice on something else with the flat color before the car ( I'm just trying to save you some more sanding). Single stage met colors are hard for professional painters let alone a newbie in a garage. (no that's not an insult I'm just saying it's going to be hard)


Hey man, apprecate the suggestions. I agree with all of what you said. I definitely struggle with maintaining consistent gun distance, speed, and overlap. I might do 2 passes with a real consistent overlap, then the next one I have a real wide overlap. Just don't have enough practice and experience yet.

I think I tight overlap like 75% is very good at helping prevent stripes, but if you do 3 passes at 75%, then do one with 90% by accident, you will get a dark stripe. So consistency is the key for me to get the hang of!

Thanks again
Gary

[Wydir]

I think your doing a great job for a beginner. But I would have used basecoat and a flat clear much easier and would be hard to screw up at all. but that being said the transition from flat to gloss would be a PITA so I can see why you went with a SS.

[Jayson M]

I think you were healing the gun on the top surfaces.What this means is that you weren't holding the gun at a 90 degree angle so the bottom of you fan pattern was putting out more material than the top giving you stripes,too close to the panel will do the same thing.Single stage metallic can be tricky,when you put on your first coat you go back to where you started and increase your distance and drop coat/fog the area to even out the metallics or cross coat it.You have to be careful doing this as there is a happy medium between orange peel and even metallics.Increasing your distance with a wide fan will help.

[turbocobra]

Jayson,

I think your making a valid point. I always try to parelell the air cap, but dont' always get that done. What I did was spray that firs coat with a wide open fan, I went over to the test sheet, sprayed a pattern and noticed the gun was super heavy on both ends, and you can see that in some of the striping, that it's not just heavy on one end but both end.

So I have taken all the suggestions here, I am ditching the single stage urethane and going with bc/cc with matte'd clear.

I had a gallon of a charcoal metallic that is similar to the other color to the single stage color. Did a test panel last night.

The test panel has some dents, etc in it, so not worried about that, but was able to get the metallics laid out night.

Also was using a Sagola gun, and a different regulator as my Devilbiss digital isn't acting right.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2ORTvGN5sI

[turbocobra]

Here is a little update, painted the wheels to match the top color.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2G1iJXLCUYE

[turbocobra]

Wet sanding and buffing.

Got 2 big runs on the fenders, but no where else... Used glazing putty to block out the runs...

Here is a long video showing what I did


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fheERlqNzQA


Shorter video showing the finished result on a long run on the fender top...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vJ_uII10o8

[Henry]

It's about time you guys came back. Got used to new episodes and was wondering where and what you were up to.

Great video and thanks for actually showing the method using the filler/glaze in taking out a run. I first read that here at Len's Place a couple years ago. Nice for all to actually SEE how to do it and that it does work.

I commend you on the diligant movement with the buffer in OFF panel, ON panel. Also, glad you put out a video showing the different stages of colorsanding. To some, very boring and to many a real help in being able to SEE the operation. So you do make 'how to' videos.

I have comments but nothing adverse to your efforts. In fact, congratulations for how fantastically you've come HAVING NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE. To all NEWBIES - You Can Do It!!

Henry

[turbocobra]

Hi Henry,

Appreciate all your support and help on here.

We post alot of videos youtube, but I don't always link them on here, don't want to bore you guys, lol.

Wet sanding and buffing is alot bigger job than I though it would be for sure!

Thanks for always watching and commenting!

Thanks
Gary

[turbocobra]

Here is a little update for anyone that is interested...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWg4HLsEAUE

[turbocobra]

OK, making some progress. We have had it running for a while, but this is the first time the wheels have rolled under power and stopped on their own. Just finished brakes, and some nut and bolt work on the front part of the car.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k0bEjGhU6s

[Mooch]

OK, making some progress. We have had it running for a while, but this is the first time the wheels have rolled under power and stopped on their own. Just finished brakes, and some nut and bolt work on the front part of the car.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3k0bEjGhU6s

Sounds great and looks great . One nice project .

Mooch

[turbocobra]

Sounds great and looks great . One nice project .

Mooch Thanks Mooch!

[Len]

Sounds great and looks great . One nice project .

Mooch

I agree, I can't wait to see it on the road.

[another2centsworth]

Pump gas drags....way too cool!

[Henry]

OK, making some progress. We have had it running for a while, but this is the first time the wheels have rolled under power and stopped on their own. Just finished brakes, and some nut and bolt work on the front part of the car.



I look forward to your progress. Been following this build for a long time. Glad I didn't have to do ALL that work.
Happy to hear it. That starter sounds like it means business then comes the sound of the motor which is awesome.

Question: the video itself seemed to be in slow motion. Anyone else notice that?

Guys, thanks for the update. I'm always impressed!

Henry

[turbocobra]

Thanks Henry! Appreciate the comments and support!

Not sure on the slow motion.. probably just us working slow! But I did speed up certain parts of the video when we were working to make it a shorter video....

Thanks!

[turbocobra]

Maiden Voyage around the neighborhood!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLKKeMkef7g

[Henry]

Maiden Voyage around the neighborhood!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLKKeMkef7g

Enjoyed the update and the ride. Matt couldn't look happier. Car sounds good. Glad you guys were driving as I would have gotten lost in the maze you live in.

So what happens next; bolt the nose on and glass? Keep us posted as I enjoy the videos and info.

Henry

[turbocobra]

Thanks Henry. The last big job is chassis wiring. We are putting a complete/custom harness in it, lights, gauges, radio, etc.

AFter that it will just be final interior work and putting it all back together.

[turbocobra]

Hi Guys,

It's been a while since the last update. Not much has been done. Started on wiring harness, and we solved a stumbling / boost issue we had.


http://youtu.be/5dlw6CW7-U4

[another2centsworth]

Cool Video! [)

[Henry]

Hi Guys,

It's been a while since the last update. Not much has been done. Started on wiring harness, and we solved a stumbling / boost issue we had.


http://youtu.be/5dlw6CW7-U4

Good to 'hear' from you and the car today. Let's not run those fenders over.
The spaghetti looks good running through the car.

Did you have any idea how endless the work would be on this project? You sure changed everything in the car. How's your son doing? He should be about graduating college around the same time the car is finished.

Just not sure what you mean by "it's cold outside today". We've been having below 0 wind chills with single digit temps. Of course yesterday was the January thaw (for a day) at 55 degrees.

Take care and keep posting.

Henry

[Henry]

Cool Video! [)

He has a ton of videos on this project going back a couple years in case you've not seen them. His son and him have given a whole new meaning to the term, "Oh What A Feeling"!

Henry

[another2centsworth]

Henry I have been following these guys during the build either by videos and/or postings.

It has been quite the trip. Very interesting to say the least.

Really great to see the Father/Son bonding. Not to mention the learning experience to boot for the two. [)

[turbocobra]

Good to 'hear' from you and the car today. Let's not run those fenders over.
The spaghetti looks good running through the car.

Did you have any idea how endless the work would be on this project? You sure changed everything in the car. How's your son doing? He should be about graduating college around the same time the car is finished.

Just not sure what you mean by "it's cold outside today". We've been having below 0 wind chills with single digit temps. Of course yesterday was the January thaw (for a day) at 55 degrees.

Take care and keep posting.

Henry

Thanks Henry! Good to hear from you! Your asking a great question. We had no idea what we were getting into. First old car I have ever bought or worked on, first rust repair, sheetmeal repair, first paint job. I remembering taking it to a painter 4 years ago when we bought it, and he said: "I won't touch this car, every single panel needs to be replaced or needs significant repair" Lol, oh boy, what did we get into. Yes, hopefully we get it completed before Matt Graduates. He is doing well. He works at a Goodyear tire center from 7:30-4:30 each day, then goes to school from 6:00-10:30pm each night, and works the weekends also, so he doesn't have alot of time to work on the mustang.

When I said it was cold, It was in the 40's with a 20mph wind, so driving a car with no glass in it was a little chilli, but when I say cold, it's nothing like what you guys deal with, lol.

Thanks again!

[Henry]

Henry I have been following these guys during the build either by videos and/or postings.

It has been quite the trip. Very interesting to say the least.

Really great to see the Father/Son bonding. Not to mention the learning experience to boot for the two. [)

I think the amazing part is NEITHER one did this work before. Now, he belongs in Len's CLASSROOM page.
I also thinks it's the greatest that he took his son under his wing and they BOTH learned together. One hell of a definition to the term BONDING.

This has been a win-win all the way around and glad it's ALL on Len's site for all of us to see and newbies to learn.

Henry

[turbocobra]

I think the amazing part is NEITHER one did this work before. Now, he belongs in Len's CLASSROOM page.
I also thinks it's the greatest that he took his son under his wing and they BOTH learned together. One hell of a definition to the term BONDING.

This has been a win-win all the way around and glad it's ALL on Len's site for all of us to see and newbies to learn.

Henry

Well said Henry. Finding Len's site was a godsend for sure. I posted alot of questions on here in the begining, and bought a ton of products from Len to use in the build, including the paint gun used to paint the car.

I certainly appreciate all the help from you, Len, and all the other contributors on this site. No way we could have done this without the help!

[turbocobra]

Here is a little update from the weekend. Wiring work, and Matt and I horsing around at the end.


http://youtu.be/41KWqaoTQtI

[turbocobra]

More work from this weekend. Got the front sheetmetal reinstalled and a first time drive at night.



http://youtu.be/gxnbkEATJVI

[style]

What a long project finally coming to and end,you can't put a price on that..

Lol,my grand national has the same steering wheel(that's about the nicest thing on the whole car)...

[turbocobra]

Made a trip to the junk yard to get a late model mustang E-brake setup.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usaFpggJl-Q

[Henry]

Made a trip to the junk yard to get a late model mustang E-brake setup.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=usaFpggJl-Q

One hell of a money maker. You'll never see the owner walking around without the big roll of money. Couple buddies and me were going to buy a boneyard back when I was 38yrs old. Ended up we didn't but a local school principal and his son bought it in Thomaston, CT.

Anyway, bout time you guys are back on the Mustang. Gary, I didn't understand what you were saying at the end of the video? You really got all your stuff for free? Think that was a message to someone. You driving that bike yet?

Henry

[turbocobra]

Henry,

Yes, that was a message to someone else on youtube who made some bad comments about me and matt, the mustang, and made some references that I am some silver spoon trust fund baby. He also said we were faking having a cobra that our 65 mustang is not a real cobra. I used to have a 1995 mustang cobra with a turbo on it, and that is how I got my screen name and channel name, so I was just kind of making some fun with the situation, but as you can tell i have a bit of a dry sense of humor.

I agree with you about the boneyard being a money maker. The prices have really gone up for sure...

Haven't really made much progress lately on the bike or the car, but hope to get back on them soon.

Thanks for commenting Henry.

[turbocobra]

How's it going guys...

A little update on the mustang, not much progress...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BtNwnnOXYg

[Henry]

How's it going guys...

A little update on the mustang, not much progress...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BtNwnnOXYg

Thanks for the update. Was getting used to weekly/biweekly updates on the car or bike. Boy, the violations I could think of with that car on the street OMG!! Towed and impounded by a shady towing company on call for the Texas Ranger Auto Squad. Remember, the fun and memories are in the building. Is the parking brake installed? I see tires on the bike. What's up with that project?

Thanks for the update.

Henry