67 Camaro RS

[wh65442]

I've had this Camaro since 1986 when I bought it for my son to drive. He used it through high school and college, and then we parked it in 1991.
I built a new shop three years ago and started cutting out the rust and getting ready to back on the road. I'm going for a stock look, but with upgraded brakes, suspension and drivetrain.
I have lots of pictures documenting the tear-down and repair. I'll post some of them over a few posts if there is any interest. I have replaced both Qtrs, trunk pan, partial floorpan , one door skin and one outer rocker. Also patched a couple of rust holes in both fenders.
Currently I've worked the filler, done my skim coat and getting ready for high build primer.

1746

1747

1748

1749 The car took a hit in the door/qtr. years ago. Found 1/2 inch of filler. The outer rocker was pretty beat up also.

1750

[wh65442]

A few more pictures.

1751

1752 The drivers qtr had rust at the wheel lip and below the trunk drop off. I just used an 80% qtr for this side.

1753 The surface rust under the qtr window and around the wheelwell was treated with Picklex prior to priming and painting. I also coated under both qtrs with 3M undercoating.

1754

1768 I lost count of the times this qtr. went on and off trying to get it lined up right. The area around the tail panel took a lot of tweaking.

[wh65442]

More rust and more fixes.

1759 The trunk braces got sanblasted and primed/painted before the trunk pan went in. This was some on my earliest welding. Once I got a little better at it, I went back to the trunk and cleaned it up a lot.

1760

1761

1762

1763 I removed the dash top and put patch panels in the cowl underneath the top. It was also sandblasted and epoxy primed. I think that the new dash top will be my last new sheetmetal to install.

[wh65442]

Starting to look a little better.

1764
1765
1766
1767 I had to put the wheels on just for a few minutes when they arrived. I wanted a little less air above the tires, but hopefully when all the weight is back in the car it will settle a little. You can also see where I've been block sanding the entire body. Lots of dings on the p. door and prior body work on both fenders. Took a LONG time to get it smooth.

Thanks Len for the note on how to insert the pictures.


Wayne
If you go back to the paper clip you can click on your attachments and place the picture in the post rather than just a link. The attachment will appear where you place your cursor. If you want you can highlight the picture(s) and click the "Aligh Center" button to center them in the post. You're limited to 4 pictures per post.

[wh65442]

I forgot earlier to thank Len and others on the site for their expertise. I've been reading, learning and putting your ideas to task. Len, I even used your idea about using a backing strip behind my butt welds.

Wayne

[Frank T]

wh65442, i love pictures , a picture is worth a thousand words , but I wish there was a way of enlargeing it for a better view , some other sites I use have photo bucket account's , I don't know what the details of that account are , IE - free or charge , but a better view would allow us to give some fruitful ideas , just a thought , Frank

[Frank T]

Now , thats better, I don't have to put my cheaters on , and use a magnifying glass ! Frank

[wh65442]

Sorry Ray, I'm just a rookie also. If I gave my opinion I might mislead you. Len or others on the shop can answer your questions and give your the RIGHT answers.

Wayne

[alaskajeff]

I wasn't sure how to post a question, but I saw this site and figured that it looks like you know what you are doing. So here goes.

I am an amateur who plans to repaint a 67 corvette with ChromaBase. I had painted it with ChromaBase about 6 years ago but wanted to fix some rock chips and perhaps see if I could do a better job. After fixing the dings, I wet sanded the car with #400. I intend to go back with the same color (marina blue). Here's my questions;

Since I am not changing colors or manufacturers, is it absolutely necessary to seal the whole car? Or even seal at all?

I have an old Binks model 7, am I alright or am I showing my age with an antique gun? I have a gravity fed Central Pneumatic (Taiwan) knock off - would that be better?

We don't have a DuPont jobber in town, so a body shop got the paint for me. It is a gallon of base, a gallon of 7160s basemaker, a gallon of 7900s clear, a quart of 7985 activator/reducer. Also a pint of 12305s activator that is added to the basecoat? That is new to me.

I can get my shop up to about 50-55 degrees. Do I need to wait for warmer weather or is that ok?

Thanks for the help,



Ray
Try posting this question under "General Discussion".

[kwik69]

wow wh65442, that's an awesome project!

Want to do mine next? I'll film you doing it and we'll sell the video, eh? :D

It only makes sence that you start with a 67, then do a 68 and a 69 next. :proposeto

[wh65442]

wow wh65442, that's an awesome project!

Want to do mine next? I'll film you doing it and we'll sell the video, eh? :D

It only makes sence that you start with a 67, then do a 69 and a 69 next. :proposeto


Come April will mark the three year mark for this car. (And I thought I could do it in 18 months.) So---you might not have the patience for me to work on your car. Anyway, I've got a 65 442 waiting that I'm slowly collecting parts for. It will be a more intimdating project than the Camaro. :o
Thanks for the comments. Take care.

Wayne

[cummins724]

Great job man! I love the old Camaros.

[MaxxdOut]

I forgot earlier to thank Len and others on the site for their expertise. I've been reading, learning and putting your ideas to task. Len, I even used your idea about using a backing strip behind my butt welds.

Wayne

Wayne – Great progress – thanks for showing all of the detail. Could you elaborate on Len’s backing strip idea regarding but welds. I love hearing about new useful ideas. Are you talking about copper strips?

Keep the updates coming!

Thanks
Chris

[wh65442]

Wayne – Great progress – thanks for showing all of the detail. Could you elaborate on Len’s backing strip idea regarding but welds. I love hearing about new useful ideas. Are you talking about copper strips?

Keep the updates coming!

Thanks
Chris


Chris,
Sorry it took so long to reply. Haven't been here for awhile.
Take a look at this link. This is Len's description on using backing strips for butt welding panels.

http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml

[J-rod]

Nice work, Looks great!

[fixdent]

HI Wayne....could you give us some details on your rack you have there.

If I ever get a chance to retire out of this autobody trade, once of my first "retirement" projects will be a 68 Camaro... I have always loved those cars.

Thanks,
Gordon

[wh65442]

I haven't updated the tread for quite awhile, but I have been staying busy on the Camaro as time permits. I've just finished blocking the K36 high build and I'm almost ready to paint the jams and underneath the hood and trunk lid.
Here are some shots of the engine bay, the car just before I shot the high build, and one of a test panel I did trying to decide on color. I'm going with Nantucket blue, which was the orignal color of the car.

Wayne

3224322532263227

[wh65442]

Well, it's finally painted. I did the jam work in my shop and took it to a friends spray booth to shoot the body.
I thought I knew how much work was involved, but taping, spraying color and clear in a weekend really kicked my butt.
I used Deltron 2000 base and Global 894 clear. My friend talked me into using his expesive Sata gun and I ended up with more orange peel that I was expecting. I used my Devilbiss 670 Plus for the jams and under the hood & trunk and it sprayed much smoother. Probably just the rookie painter, ME.

[tech69]

that looks clean. Congrats!

[wh65442]

Here are a couple of shots while wet sanding the clear. I'm using 1500 on a hard block by hand. I'll go to 3000 with an airadvatage as soon as Fed Ex gets it to me.
I'm staying away from the edges and being carefull not to burn through. It's coming out smooth so far with no problems. The top has the worst orange peel and I hope to use the airadvantage there once I receive it. Then on to buffing with Sure Finish.

[wh65442]

It's been a long summer and I've really struggled with my paint job. I cut through my clear and base while color sanding. I tried three times to blend the repair and it looked like crap. So, I paid my bodyshop friend to fix it for me. Ended up re-clearing the back half of the car.
Anyway, here are some updated pictures after the color sanding and buffing with the wool bonnet. The top has been buffed with an orange foam pad---still have the sides and trunk to do.

Wayne

[Len]

If it looks as good in person as it looks in the pictures it should be a real hit at the shows.

[wh65442]

Thanks Len. You and others on the site have taught me a lot. It's not perfect but I know it will be fun to drive and something to share with others while cruising.

Wayne

[wh65442]

A couple of recent pictures for anyone interested. Got the body trim installed, glass in and now working on the interior.
The headliner is in, carpet is in, and now learning upholstery. Hope to have it on the road in a couple of weeks.
Just think, it only took 5 years.

Wayne

[Len]

Wow! Now that is a great looking car. You should be proud of doing it yourself.

[Henry]

A couple of recent pictures for anyone interested. Got the body trim installed, glass in and now working on the interior.
The headliner is in, carpet is in, and now learning upholstery. Hope to have it on the road in a couple of weeks.
Just think, it only took 5 years.

Wayne

Nice job!!! I love that you have it sitting higher than stock. Difference in you and Foose is he would have the car sitting so low it could plow snow. Really a good looking car and fantastic job Done By YOU!!! Henry

[MARTINSR]

Very nice, man those cars look nice when done well. :judge_10:

Brian

[wh65442]

Thanks for the kind words guys. Again, I learned a lot from the Autobodystore site, and I printed out and saved all of Brians Back-to-Basics articles.
Thanks to all for sharing your combined knowledge.

Wayne