Using panel adhesive on a exterior panel patch.

[Reamer]

Hi all
I have a '76 Bronco with the bottom of the tailgate rotted out.
New Tailgates are over $500 with shipping.
The bottom patch panel I got was $65.

I was going to cut out the rust and lap or but weld in the patch.
Since lap welds can invite new rust between the lap form the inside, and my butt welding skill tends to lead to more burn through and warpage than desired, How about putting the patch panel through my bead roller and using SEM panel adhesive all the way along the face of the tailgate. The Adhesive will actually fill the joint, then prime, 2K and paint.
1. Is the SEM adhesive sandable?
2. will this work (as a permaniate repair)
3. has anybody done this?/ O.K. to do?
Thanks
Reamer

[Reamer]

No Takers?

[MeanGreen]

I know it can be done. Not sure about SEM's products but I believe that Fusor's panel bonding adhesives have glass particles in them to help with clamping. Basically it keeps all the adhesive from getting squeezed out when clamping or using screws to hold it together. The screws are then removed and the holes can be filled with more of the adhesive. I think the Fusor stuff is sandable. Check their website, they have all their products listed and tech sheets (at least they did about a year ago)
I am not a pro, and it's been a while since I've done any major body/paint work ,so hopefully someone else will chime in. Some of these chemicals can be sanded smooth, but others require other filler be used over them. I had looked into this, a while back for some panel replacements for a friends car.
Jerry

[Iceman]

Hi all
I have a '76 Bronco with the bottom of the tailgate rotted out.
New Tailgates are over $500 with shipping.
The bottom patch panel I got was $65.

I was going to cut out the rust and lap or but weld in the patch.
Since lap welds can invite new rust between the lap form the inside, and my butt welding skill tends to lead to more burn through and warpage than desired, How about putting the patch panel through my bead roller and using SEM panel adhesive all the way along the face of the tailgate. The Adhesive will actually fill the joint, then prime, 2K and paint.
1. Is the SEM adhesive sandable?
2. will this work (as a permaniate repair)
3. has anybody done this?/ O.K. to do?
Thanks
ReamerI've used the Fusor to glue partial panels on, I followed the lap method that was shown in the instructions. I looked good in the garage, but put in the sun for a while at you could see a line develop along the repair line. I've seen others that have had the same problem. I've also used it for whole door skins with no issues what so ever. Fusor does have glass beads in it so I'm not sure about sanding it. Just my 2 cents worth.

[Len]

Hi all
I have a '76 Bronco with the bottom of the tailgate rotted out.
New Tailgates are over $500 with shipping.
The bottom patch panel I got was $65.

I was going to cut out the rust and lap or but weld in the patch.
Since lap welds can invite new rust between the lap form the inside, and my butt welding skill tends to lead to more burn through and warpage than desired, How about putting the patch panel through my bead roller and using SEM panel adhesive all the way along the face of the tailgate. The Adhesive will actually fill the joint, then prime, 2K and paint.
1. Is the SEM adhesive sandable?
2. will this work (as a permaniate repair)
3. has anybody done this?/ O.K. to do?
Thanks
Reamer


You could do the panel bonding by overlapping the panels in the same manor as overlapping to weld. You want to remove all of the exposed metal bonding material before you start to fill over the seam.

If you have a welder I would recommend that you check out the procedure linked below. While butt welding can be difficult for a person who only welds occasionally this "backing strip" method is quite easy and produces excellent results. The job shown on this link was done on a door bottom but it pretty much the same as the work you need. Don't worry about a seam causing problems because it's usually above the moisture problem and can be sealed with a good sealer.


http://autobodystore.com/Truckdr30.jpg
Welding in a Door Bottom Link
(http://autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml)

[e-tek]

While Len has more experience than most of us put together :), it just seems to me that adding a strip and welding both peices to it would increase problems (leaks, rust, strength) over lap-welding the pieces togther. It does eliminate the need for flanging though!
Thoughts?

[Len]

While Len has more experience than most of us put together :), it just seems to me that adding a strip and welding both peices to it would increase problems (leaks, rust, strength) over lap-welding the pieces togther. It does eliminate the need for flanging though!
Thoughts?

If the seam is located in an area that stays moist then it would be best NOT to use the backing strip method. HOWEVER you will usually place the seam above the problem spot where you have good metal. This means that you had NO moisture problem in that area and hence the backing strip works great. The bottom seam is another story and it's there that you need to use a good technique and seam sealer to protect the repair. I usually use a self-leveling seam sealer in the bottom so that moisture doesn't get into the bottom seam where it stays pretty much forever and causes problems. I've never had a backing strip repair go bad from trapping moisture in 40+ years of patching cars and I believe it's because the seams are above the problem area.