View Full Version : Spotting Clear Question(For Len/pro's)
10-18-2008, 09:20 PM
How do you guy's handle spotting in base/clear - when you don't want to/need to - clear the entire panel? (E.g. tiny bug-mark, edge buff-thoughs, etc.)
I have rarely done it, because I've either cleared the panel or been able to polish it out/hide it, but now that I'm painting at home, I want to be able to repair spots (to perfect a job) without clearing entire panels.
Would you just base it, then clear with some extra reducer? Add slow reducer? Use a blending solvent? Or clear it normally them sand/polish to blend?
I use a lot of DuPont and ProForm products.
I don't use DuPont so the method may vary but this is how I do it using Glasurit.
I prep the spot by sanding right over the problem with 800 grit so that the base bonds well then I sand the blend area with 1200 or 1500 or even finer depending on the location, color etc. but usually with 1500.
The 1500 scratches go well beyond the area that will receive clear so that I know that I won't approach any unsanded foundation with new clear.
I apply my first coat of color over the problem, allow it to flash then apply my second coat extending the area slightly. If my problem covered well with two coats I then over-reduce my color and apply another coat extending the area again. If I think it needs more blending I'll reduce it again and apply a forth coat and wait the recommended time for the solvents to escape before applying my clear.
I apply my clear so that the first coat covers the newly applied base, I wait for the clear to flash then apply another coat extending the clear spot slightly. I usually over-reduce the clear just a little then apply a third coat expanding the area again and repeat this with a forth coat of clear. I immediately dump the clear from the gun in pour in a small mount of slow reducer and DUST IT LIGHTLY on the edge of the blend.
This dusting of straight slow reducer will help cause the somewhat dry blended edge to melt into the surface scratches but if it's sprayed wet it will cause the paint to run or move so dusting is all that is needed.
The mistake I made a couple times and that most people make is to polish the spot before the new paint is FULLY CURED. This causes the new, soft paint to break back at the edge of the clear causing a visible repair. If you wait long enough the new paint is hard and won't break back as easily and you're more likely to get an invisible repair.
One more thing to remember is that ANY of the materials that are applied over the old paint can run easily so don't apply new color or clear over the old paint too wet. It's better to have a little peel that generating a run that is a lot harder to fix in this blending situation.
10-19-2008, 08:52 AM
That's close to what I thought and I'm sure it will work the same with DuPont or ProForm products.
Once again, my humble gratitude for your ability to teach and help others.:o
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