View Full Version : Binks Model 62 any good or not?

10-15-2008, 08:07 PM
I'm getting ready to paint my jeep and was wondering if you all think a binks 62 will get the job done? I don't know a ton about spray guns, but I can get any other info about the gun if you need it. If it helps any I'm using Nason base coat and clear. I don't need it showroom perfect but I want it to look decent.

10-15-2008, 11:11 PM
I'm getting ready to paint my jeep and was wondering if you all think a binks 62 will get the job done? I don't know a ton about spray guns, but I can get any other info about the gun if you need it. If it helps any I'm using Nason base coat and clear. I don't need it showroom perfect but I want it to look decent.

That 62 will tend to generate more runs and dry spots than a better gun but the importance of the job should dictate the importance of the gun. The best chance of getting the best result will come from using the best tools and materials but the "best" is not always justified. I would say that your best chance of getting a good result would probably be achieved by using a gun like the DeVilbiss Finishline III along with sanding and polishing the resulting paint job. A better gun would be would be the DeVilbiss GFG-670G "Plus" Gun because it can atomize the paint better than the Finishline and still be easier to control than the Binks gun.

A jeep can be tricky because there are a couple of areas that are at a 90 degree inside angle to each other. This means that when you paint the fender you're also painting the hood and when you spray the edge of the hood you're adding paint to the fender. This is particularly tricky with a conventional gun like the Binks because of all the high pressure air that you're blasting into that trapped area and it is difficult to get the paint on evenly without running it or causing dry spots. A low pressure gun (HVLP) like the Finishline or a reduced pressure gun like the Plus makes it a little easier to get a better, more consistent coating but, again, it's all in what the value of the paint job is to you.

Finishline III Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DEVFLG647-WB&Category_Code=1D)

Plus (Special) Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DEVGFG670Gs&Category_Code=5SPL)

10-17-2008, 07:19 AM
I'm getting ready to paint my jeep and was wondering if you all think a binks 62 will get the job done? I don't know a ton about spray guns, but I can get any other info about the gun if you need it. If it helps any I'm using Nason base coat and clear. I don't need it showroom perfect but I want it to look decent.

what air cap/fluid tip are you using now ? Most Binks guns came with an SD or SK air cap, both will get the job done.

Your model 62 will paint a car just fine. My friend has that same exact gun, he painted his Chevy truck using catalyzed 2-part acrylic enamel BC/CC and it came out perfect.

The model 62 has been superceded by the Binks model 95- (the model 95 superceded the model 62, 18, and BBR)- the model 95 air caps and fluid tips may fit the model 62- go to this link and scroll down, you'll want at least a 66SD air cap, and preferably a 66SK air cap- but either air cap will get the job done.


you can verify by calling Binks and asking their rep, what's the fastest cap with widest pattern for that gun- use that and the gun will work great

The SK cap will give a larger pattern and slightly better atomization, and is "the" cap to use for maximum atomization of high-solids paints with your conventional gun. SD and SK caps use the same fluid tip, so paint volume is the same coming out, but the SK cap spreads it out wider, 13" with an SK, compared to 11" with an SD. The only way to spread paint out wider, is atomize it more using more air. The SK cap is a "high air volume" cap using 15-20 cfm of air, making it equal to a modern HVLP in air volume- the SD cap uses 12 cfm. The SD will put the paint on wetter- same amount of paint material, but in a smaller pattern.

CAT also makes replacement caps/tips for Binks guns, go to this link, scroll down to "conventional air caps"- the SK cap from them is number 2466


I've been painting all week with a Binks model 7 with SK cap, and the results are simply amazing. Yesterday I primed a 1970 Firebird trunk lid with self etch, and the gun covered the deck lid with only 4 passes- that's how wide the spray pattern is- the production speed is amazing. I'm only using 20 psi when trigger is pulled, measured at gun inlet with inline gauge on bottom of gun- overspray is minimal. Reduce air pressure and thin sufficiently, and any conventional gun basically becomes an HVLP- but with superior production speed. Try it and you'll see.

I have another acquaintance who has been a bodyman/painter for 30 years, he has (2) state of the art Sata HVLP/RP/compliant gravity feed guns, each one costs $600+ each. He also has a $15,000 PPG spray booth, and complete PPG paint mixing bay with all base tints, and computerized mixing software. He is certified for all Toyota dealer collision repairs on new cars- this place is big time- it's a 6 bay body shop on several acres of land. He just painted a Camaro to resell, and there's a run in each door at door lock area- that has to be sanded out. Using modern HVLP/compliant guns does not eliminate dry spots or runs ! Modern high-dollar guns are no substitute for skill and experience- and even WITH experience, there's some luck involved with painting anything.

there's no reason to go out and buy a new spray gun, to paint one car- if you already have a Binks model 62. If you are a home hobbyist type, I definitely recommend NOT buying an HVLP or compliant gun- those laws don't apply to you.

Phil V
10-17-2008, 10:11 AM
Dam, will you quit advising people to use those ancient spray guns Dusty ! A 2 inch wide house painting brush can put paint on a car also BUT ITS NOT GOING TO GIVE YOU A PROFESSIONAL LOOKING PAINT JOB. Dusty, its like you're stuck in a time warp and can't get out of the 1970's. You're probably still wearing polyester leisure suits and a big "fro" dew, drive a '72 AMC Gremlin and have one of those huge antique cell phones from the early '80s.

Wearethebucs, the Model 62 is a decent primer gun and its a good gun for lacquer and acrylic enamel and may even be Ok for basecoat but it will FLAT OUT SUCK for spraying acrylic urethane clearcoat. I have an old Binks Model 62 that I bought in 1974 used for $8 and have used it for a primer gun ever since. Most of the time it sits on the paint gun rack with my Model 7 and a couple other antique guns now collecting dust. Those guns are ancient outmoded technology that should be respectfully tossed into the dust bin of history. Look at those old guns like you would an old Model T Ford, it was a great car in its day but its poorly suited for modern use. Len sells several lower priced spray guns that are actually decent spray guns for the price (NOTE - most lesser priced spray guns like from home depot, sears, harbor freight are NOT good spray guns for spraying BC/CC but the ones Len sells ARE decent spray guns for BC/CC. Len doesn't just sell spray guns --- he runs each model spray gun through rigorous tests to make sure they will deliver decent results). Len and I as well as ALL the other well experienced professional bodymen and painters agree that the old spray guns were good in their day but that day has passed and you need updated technology guns to spray updated paints that we use today.

I personally lean towards the current technology LVLP guns but the Compliant and some HVLP guns are excellent also.

Bottom line --- if you plan on spraying BC/CC then use the old Model 62 for a primer gun and pick up a gun designed to shoot the paint we're using today.

10-17-2008, 05:41 PM
I used a Binks 62 and the old DeVilbiss JGA guns for several years while HVLP guns began hitting the market and were producing poor paint jobs. I continued using my old technology because the HVLP guns were crap. I graduated to a Sata Jet 90 and produced a lot of beautiful Porshe and Mercedes repaints for about 5 years. Since I was a Sata fan, when Sata came out with the old 95s and 98s I tried them but the Jet 90 was still better. Then I got a NR2000 to try and realized how more consistent my work was with no runs or dry spots. It wasn't as smooth as most areas since there was a little more orange peel but the coatings were more evenly distributed all over. I was an immediate convert to The Sata NR2000 HVLP and I still use it from time to time. Since I was sanding and polishing my high-end jobs a little orange peel was better than a run or dry area.

Since that time I've used the newest technology that combines the fine atomization of my Jet 90 and me even coating of the NR2000, it's called "reduced pressure" spray guns. The pressure isn't low enough to be called "high volume LOW PRESSURE" but it's low enough to still transfer 65% or more paint to the surface which makes the gun "compliant" in areas that require (by law) that these tools transfer a certain percentage of the material to the surface. The new compliant guns apply a much more consistent coating than my old technology and the coatings are that much smoother because these guns atomize better than most HVLP guns.

The old technology still works but mostly when the project isn't that critical or the budget for the gun is quite low, otherwise it usually pays to invest is a better tool.