View Full Version : Having trouble with my LPH 400, how to set up?
04-08-2006, 09:14 PM
I purchased my gun used from ebay, guy said he only used it on one car, didn't like it. He had a 1.2 tip in it though, so I gues that's why. I sprayed it once with the 1.2 tip and also didn't like how it sprayed, not enough fluid and I had trouble with it leaking. First from the packing set? and then after I tightened that down a bit from the front of the gun because the needle stuck. Got a 1.4 tip and like the gun better, didn't leak this time but needle started to stick. It didn't leak, I could just hear it snap shut when the trigger was released instead of a smooth action. Also, the paint was blotchy. My instructor had the pressure turned up to about 28psi, even after I told him it recommended 16psi for base coat, which could have something to do with it. He reduced the pattern size as well, said the fan was too wide. Anyone have any suggestions on how to set up my gun to spray really good. It didn't spray bad, but I've been much happier with the result I got from a SATAJET, and I've heard that these two guns are comparable. Any help would be most appreciated!
04-09-2006, 09:19 AM
This is what I use as recommended by Hub at Iwata's website.
Fan adjustment fully open.
Fluid adjustment fully open.
Air valve on the bottom of the gun fully open.
With an empty cup, pull the trigger back all the way and adjust gauge to 20psi (for clearcoat). I believe he recommends 16psi or less for basecoat.
Distance from surface being painted is 6 inches.
You will have to move a little faster since the fluid control is fully open but you should get a great finish.
Note: This is for a LPH400-LV which will have wedges cut out of the tip of the fluid tip. It will have LPH400-LV printed on the air cap. If it doesn't, you probably have the older version of the gun.
The older version of the gun can be updated with a new tip kit. It's been a while since I sold one but I believe they are under $100.
04-11-2006, 04:59 PM
I have a brand new fluid tip and needle in the gun, and it is the tip with the wedges cut out of it, sorta looks like an iron cross. The gun just sprays funny, and wasn't sure if I had it set up wrong. I had the air adjustment and fan adjustment set all the way open, not sure about fluid adjustment. When I pull the trigger back and feel the air with my hand, the pattern feels split. Feels like a lot of air on top and bottom and not much in the middle, my instructor thought the same, which is why he tightened the pattern on the gun.
Ask Hub over at the ASET-USA website.
04-11-2006, 07:09 PM
anl726, put some water in the paint gun cup and hook the gun up to an air hose. Set your inlet air pressure to 20 psi. Make sure you can pull the trigger all the way back (fluid control wide open). With air flowing through the gun and the trigger pulled all the way back look at the spray pattern coming out of the gun. You are probably right in that the fan is a little too wide with too much material coming on the top and bottom with not enough in the middle of the spray pattern. Slowly turn the fan control nob in until you get the desired fan width and fan pattern. Do that and come back with the results.
Water should not hurt your gun as all the fluid passages are either aluminum of stainless steel.
04-21-2006, 09:08 PM
I have 3 of these guns and like them alot...I started liking them more after I started to run them at low pressure (16 psi...)
Depending on what you are shooting the settings are different. For metalics and basecoats, full fan, 16 psi and reduced fluid (I start mine at 1 1/2 turns on the needle adjustment) then start to test small bursts on a white paper. I adjust the fluid until I can get a nice even shower of minuscule droplets. Then you shoot closer to the surface, those guns are made to shoot 4 to 6 in from the surface. They behave sort of like the reverse of the old logic of cranking the pressure up...
For clears, I tend to use the same settings but with a little more fluid. I will run the gun a little hotter (but not much more than 18 or 20 psi max). Again, you are better to have less material comming out and move closer and slower...You will also save on materials if that's any concern of yours, your cost per job will go down as you will get almost no overspray.
If you shoot paint with this gun and you get much paint bouncing back at you and in the air then you are running the gun way too hot. Keep in mind that that gun might be defective also...ebay is full of funny business...
Did you lubricate your needle? Is your packing sound? May use a new packing ring. Any fluttering in the pattern on those guns most often comes from a loose packing, that is air going in the needle packing. I run my needles pretty tight, but I lubricate my needles with some devilbis gun lube every time I clean them...
Now once you get used to your gun, you can treat yourself to an LVB air cap for metalic basecoats. This thing is great for placing metalics and perls that are difficult (I like it for placing gold under candies...does a great job). Then with this cap you run the gun at 10 to 14 psi! It's not a gun that likes high pressures...
Hope this helps,
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