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kwik69
03-30-2006, 10:16 AM
I'm looking for a buffer to satisfy my hobbyist tendancies. :D
I've found some good write up tips here and I was wondering if you could recommend the right tool for the job.

Currently I have a black car with a lot of surface marks in the cc and I'de like to try and clean it up. I'm told they should buff out.

I also have a project car that is almost ready for primer, so a buffer should be in my future plans more than once.

Len
03-30-2006, 12:12 PM
I've had several sander/polishers and I haven't found one as good as the latest model Makita. It's light and very controlable with two methods of regulating the speed as well as automatic speed control. With all of the features, plus the Makita promotion now going, it's very reasonably priced. Check it out on the link below.

We pretty much use our Makita daily for either stripping a car or for polishing paint. We've been using the same machine for about two years and it's still smooth, quiet and trouble free.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/makita9227cx3.jpg

Makita Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=T2)

kwik69
04-21-2006, 06:13 PM
Thanks, I'll include one in my next order!

Yucholian
04-21-2006, 09:31 PM
Hey Len, do you use the Makita for grinding down welds as well?

Len
04-21-2006, 11:30 PM
No, the only jobs I use my Makita for is to remove paint or to polish paint. I grind welds using my CP angle grinder with Norton Speed-Lock disks. This little tool works great and is very reasonably priced for the amount of work it does. We rarely use a big grinder these days.


http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Norton3inchdisksm.jpg
Grinder Link (http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GTAM)

Yucholian
04-22-2006, 03:11 PM
Thanks Len, the reason why I ask is I have bought boxes of 3M disk for my die grinder from you few years ago and that didn't work very well, didn't last long either. Is Norton better than the 3M?

Len
04-23-2006, 10:41 PM
3M makes a lot of different disks, which ones did you buy? Some Norton products are better than 3M and that's why I use the type of grinding disk shown in the above post but it's mostly because of the Roloc design of the 3M. I've had problems with Roloc so I usually try to avoid it when possible.

Yucholian
04-23-2006, 11:29 PM
I got 3M GreenCorp, 01408, 24 grit, 3 inch Roloc. Thanks

Yucholian
04-25-2006, 10:51 PM
Well, Len, can you comment on the model I am using? Thanks in advance.

Len
04-25-2006, 11:33 PM
I don't remember the 3M disks being that much different than the Norton except that the plastic mounting screw would break once in a while causing the disk to fly across the room and then I would need to dig the broken stud out of the backing plate.

What did you find that they didn't do well? I think these 3" grinding disks are the way to go. I used a large grinder for years but about 5 or 6 years ago we started using this smaller tool and now we rarely pick up the big electric grinder.

TimG
04-25-2006, 11:36 PM
I use 3M roloc discs at work,not sure of the number.
2 things I noticed are if the backing pad for the disc is worn,and not the same size as the the disc,they don't last for squat.
Another thing,I prefer the 36 grit, the smaller abrasive seems to stick to the disc better.
Just my 2 cents worth .

Phil V
04-26-2006, 12:56 AM
I have and use the angle head die grinders with roloc discs mainly for sanding/grinding out paint in spots where the 5" grinder can't get to. But I rarely use it for grinding welds flat. For grinding welds flat I use a 3 1/2" angle head air grinder that uses a grinding stone. (like the smaller Makita type electric angle head grinder, only an air tool instead of electric). The reason I use that mid size angle head grinder is that the grinding stones outlast the expensive roloc discs many times over. Another use that the mid size air angle head grinder is great for is with the larger ( 5") cut off discs/wheels. Used mainly for cutting sheet metal panels etc.

Yucholian
04-26-2006, 11:54 AM
With the 3" 3M, I felt the discs wore out really fast. Also, the backing disc is so flexible, I couldn't apply enough pressure to really grind things down. Maybe Norton backing discs are a bit firmer. It just took forever to grind welds, and went through a lot of discs.

TimG
04-26-2006, 11:28 PM
On welds,I use a grinding wheel made by 3M that fits in a cutoff tool,same diameter as a whizzer wheel,only about a 1/4" thick.
I use that to grind just the weld 'till its close,then hit it w/ the roloc.

wolfsautobody
05-04-2006, 11:48 PM
I'm looking for a buffer to satisfy my hobbyist tendancies. :D
I've found some good write up tips here and I was wondering if you could recommend the right tool for the job.

Currently I have a black car with a lot of surface marks in the cc and I'de like to try and clean it up. I'm told they should buff out.

I also have a project car that is almost ready for primer, so a buffer should be in my future plans more than once.


kwik69,
If you don't feel like paying an alot for a buffer you can try Harbor Freight. They have a few buffers made by Chicago Electric that work well. I have one that I bought for like $29.99 on sale. I used it today to buff a black truck that I painted last night and it buffed out really good. You can adjust the speed from 1000-6000 rpm. They also have one with a led adjustment for the rpm's. The one I have starts off at a steady pace and then goes to the rpm you have it set on. It doesn't automatically take off at 6000 rpm's. It comes with 2 backing pads and I think 1 bonnet. I bought a foam pad for it and it works well. I just looked at HF's site and they have this one on sale ITEM 92623-1VGA for $29.99. I think it is the same one I bought but it comes with a little more than mine came with. But it is only 300-3000 rpm. If you do go to www.harborfreight.com go to the search window and put in polisher or sander, nothing will come up when you put in buffer.

Ben

Len
05-04-2006, 11:53 PM
Ben
Have you ever used a better buffer like the Makita or DeWalt?

Robert
05-05-2006, 08:18 AM
Ben,

When you're working with that machine, does the speed stay constant under load?

BTW, Makita has a policy that if you bring in a tool for repair, fully assembled, with just wear and tear from normal use - no running over it with your truck - there is an upper limit to how much they'll charge for parts. So, no matter how many parts they have to change, they'll give you back the tool, fixed, for a decent price. I just found out about that while having two of my dual action sanders re-built. Two $300 dollar machines running like new, maybe better, $61.50 total.

Tools are something I think of as an investment. I've gotten so much money back using my tools that their cost just isn't a factor. Detailing for fun and profit. :o)

Robert

wolfsautobody
05-07-2006, 09:20 PM
Yes, I used a Dewalt at a dealership I used to work at. But just starting out with my own shop I didn't have the money to invest in a name brand like Dewalt or Makita. With building my own booth, shop rent for almost 9-10 months without making any money (mainly due to Hurricane Rita tearing about 50 feet of roof off!) and buying the remaining few tools I needed, I am already $12,000 - $15,000 in the hole. But I guess if you want to venture out and start your own business then that is what it takes. Of course, I might have been able to make some of that money back already but, I work full time as a Police Officer too. So, I open on my days off. Which is 10-14 days a month probably. And right now I don't have business coming in steady enough to hire someone else.

Ben

Phil V
05-08-2006, 05:42 PM
Ben, I have a Makita 9227C and it is by far the best buffer I've ever used.
Having said that - a friend of mine recently bought a HF $29.00 variable speed buffer and I painted his '71 elcamino with Lacquer (his money/his choice). I buffer out that whole lacquer paint job with that $29.00 HF buffer and to be honest with you I was impressed with how well it was made and how well it performed. The only thing I didn't like about it was if the pad was in contact with the cars surface when I hit the start button it wouldn't start until I lifted it off the surface. Normally that would not be a big deal but I usually spread a little compound on the buffer pad then lay it on the a car panel and hit the start button. Doing it that way keeps the compound from getting flung out everywhere. So the HF was a pain in the ass in that respect. Other than that, I was very impressed. I gave it a real workout on that lacquered Elcamino and it did good.